Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

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Enjoying the view from the top of the rock

Dardiza bay (3.5 kms from Ermioni) is a pebble shingle beach where many local and visiting Greeks go. Situated alongside the main road, it has a small mobile cantina during high season offering cold drinks and hot snacks.

The beach offers stunning views towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos and is close to some of the most important tourist spots in Ermioni, like KranidiKilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful.


First Ascent

In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guidebooks) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist.


Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m | Climbing in Dardiza Bay

Dardiza Bayby 5” (IV+, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering and C. Toutoutzis. 

The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni. 

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV+ UIAA.

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The Rock and the Route
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The Route

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

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Download FREE Guidebook
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Download FREE Guidebook

Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.


Bellow a topo of the route Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ 20 m.

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Dardiza Bayby 5 – Topo

General route information

Dardiza Bayby 5” (IV+, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering and C. Toutoutzis.

The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV+ UIAA.


Approach

The route is located in the rock formation north west of Dardiza Bay, municipality of Ermionida, Argolis – Greece. 

Its orientation is north. Approaching R0 requires 5 minutes of hiking on an easy trail.

  • Parking spot: 37.403527, 23.256539 
  • Beginning of the route: 37.403620, 23.255125

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Approach hike

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The rock
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Can you spot the route?
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Approach hike

Route description

R0 – R1 | IV+ UIAA – 20 m.

Dardiza Bayby 5 is a single pitch (20 m.) and starts right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.403620, 23.255125).

Dardiza Bayby 5 is between Dardiza Bayby 3 and Dardiza Bayby 4 routes.

The first part of this pitch is an easy slab UIAA IV. Right at the beginning and on the right side, you can place the first protection gear (sling) in a tunnel. The slab continues up to an obvious ledge, though, just before climbing on top of the ledge, the crux of the route is located. The crux is a small dihedral but is climbed like a slab and can be protected with medium size nuts. The crux is about UIAA IV+.

As soon we climb on top of the ledge, basically we meet Dardiza Bayby 3 and we have to climb a small overhang (about 2 meters) UIAA IV. The overhang might intimidate newcomers in trad climbing, but there are good holds and can be climbed easily. In addition, this part of the climb can be well protected with gear. Once we climb over the overhand, we follow the ridge UIAA III for about 3-4 meters and we look for one of the large boulders in order to establish the anchor point.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on one of the obvious boulders. The belay position is very good and comfortable and with a unique view towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos.

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Climbing the first part
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placing gear
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Climbing
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checking for loose rocks
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chalking up
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belay

Climbing as Second and reaching the top of the Rock

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second climber is about to start climbing
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First appearance of second climber
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almost at the top
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last part of scrambling III UIAA
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Looking to Dardiza bay
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enjoying the view towards the gulf of Hydra

From R1, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:


View from the Top

Once we have reached the top of the rock, we came across the stunning view towards Hydra island, and the overall region of Ermionida. From the top, we could clearly see Mount DidimoPillars of the Wind and Mount Ortholithi.

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View towards Dardiza bay
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View towards the rock (on the right) with the other two Bayby routes
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Coiling the rope
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Coiling the rope

Return

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go south and we follow the ridge towards the east. We have to downclimb some boulders. The descent is obvious and easy to identify.

The descent takes about 5 minutes.

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Return hike

Recommended Gear

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Trad gear

For this trad climb, I used the following gear:


Details of the Climb

  • Location: Dardiza Bay
  • Starting Point: Dardiza Bay
  • Ending Point: Dardiza Bay
  • Trail Signs: No
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • When to Climb: Late Autumn, Winter, Early Spring
  • Water Features: None

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Dardiza_Bayby5_Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Ermioni_MAIN_guide


Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

5 thoughts on “Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

  1. Congratulations on your First Ascent! Way to go! Those are hard to get these days.

    I see that both you and your buddy are camera shy. It’s okay to give a big smile for your fans 🙂

    Al

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Pingback: Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni – Olympus Mountaineering

  3. Pingback: Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022 – Olympus Mountaineering

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