Alcyone – 4 pitches, 6a 100 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On May 30, 2023May 30, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

The Pleiades crag is a magnificent formation in the heavens, named after the seven shining stars that make up the Taurus constellation. These stars, known as the Pleiades sisters, were transformed into celestial bodies by the divine hand of Zeus, according to mythology.

As a climber, the Pleiades crag represents a unique challenge and an opportunity for adventure. The crag is said to be a gateway to the heavens, a place where mortals can access the realm of the gods. But getting there is no easy feat.

The path to the Pleiades crag is treacherous and requires a high level of skill and experience. The terrain is rugged, with steep cliffs and sharp rocks.

Alcyone_Pleiades_Crag_Katafyki_Ermionida_14 — Getting ready to climb the first overhang.

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2023

On May 23, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing6 Comments

In the early 2000s, a climbing revolution took place in Ermionida, East Peloponnese, when the esteemed British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek, dedicated a significant amount of time, resources, and effort to equip over 200 routes on the exceptional limestone rocks in the area using stainless steel bolts. The climbing community remains grateful for their contributions towards the development of sport climbing in the region.

Fast forward to 2021, Climb Ermionida (the local climbing community) with the invaluable aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and the Tripolis Mountaineering Club, undertook essential maintenance works on various crags and replaced several anchors with high-quality, certified materials.

Ermionida_Guidebook_main_2023_Cover_900 — Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook edition 2023

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Climbing in SunCastle – Ermionida, Argolis | Greece

On May 5, 2023May 7, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing6 Comments

If you’re looking for a new climbing destination, the recently developed SunCastle Crag between the town of Ermioni and Iliokastro may be just the place for you. With its high-quality rock formations and diverse range of routes, this new sport climbing crag is quickly becoming a go-to destination for climbers of all skill levels. In this post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about SunCastle Crag, including access to the crag, what to expect when you visit, and more.

SunCastle_Crag_Climbing_Ermioni_03 — Route: Dragon’s Spine

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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

On May 1, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges.

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Climbing in Castle Thermisia (Kastro Thermisias) – Ermionida, Argolis (2023 Update)

On March 31, 2023April 18, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing5 Comments

If you’re a climbing enthusiast looking for a breathtaking view, Castle Thermisia Crag is the place to be. Located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, this crag offers stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and the sea. The rock formations are also incredibly diverse, making it an ideal spot for climbers of all skill levels.

The crag is located just a short drive from the city of Ermioni. This makes it easy to combine your climbing adventure with some sightseeing and relaxation in the area. In fact, you can even see surrounding areas such as Nafplio, Hydra, Spetses, Epidauros, Poros and Dokos.

There are several climbing routes available at Castle Thermisia Crag, ranging in difficulty from 5a to 8c+/9a. The majority of the routes are sport climbing routes, with well-maintained bolts and anchors for safety.

Climbing_Castle_Thermisia_Crag_01 — C. Vrochidis projecting Careless Corsair (project)

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On November 1, 2022November 4, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering general6 Comments

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_44 — Climbing up

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

On September 27, 2022May 23, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing8 Comments

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2023) is published
You can find the updated version here.

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.

Climbing_Ermionida_Guidebook_Cover — Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook Edition 2022

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Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On July 9, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general15 Comments

Summer time in Greece, especially in the southern regions of the country can be rather hot. Therefore climbing near the seaside can be a very nice experience and at the same time bearable with the high temperatures.

In the past year, we have climbed a lot in the Ermionida region and we established several Trad Climbing routes, especially nearby Dardiza Bay.

Dardiza_Bayby_Shitter_18 — Magnificent view from R1

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Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On May 2, 2022February 25, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering general16 Comments

The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of easier and well protected multi-pitch routes arose and in April 2022, a new route was established and bolted by Vertical Art Greece.

Maia_Multi_Pitch_Katafyki_Ermioni_44 — Enjoying the first meters of the entire route

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Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On April 20, 2022May 2, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general7 Comments

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.