While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

Dardiza bay (3.5 kms from Ermioni) is a pebble shingle beach where many local and visiting Greeks go. Situated alongside the main road, it has a small mobile cantina during high season offering cold drinks and hot snacks.

• Check out Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m. route
• Check out Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m. route
• Check out Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. route

The beach offers stunning views towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos and is close to some of the most important tourist spots in Ermioni, like Kranidi, Kilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful.

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First Ascent

In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guidebooks) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist.

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Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m | Climbing in Dardiza Bay

“Dardiza Bayby 4” (V-, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by C. Toutoutzis and Olympus Mountaineering. 

The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni. 

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.

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Bellow a topo of the route Dardiza Bayby 4 V- 20 m.

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General route information

“Dardiza Bayby 4” (V-, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by C. Toutoutzis and Olympus Mountaineering. The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni. The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.

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Approach

The route is located in the rock formation north west of Dardiza Bay, municipality of Ermionida, Argolis – Greece. 

Its orientation is north. Approaching R0 requires 5 minutes of hiking on an easy trail.

• Parking spot: 37.403527, 23.256539 
• Beginning of the route: 37.403620, 23.255125

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Route description

R0 – R1 | V- UIAA – 20 m.

Dardiza Bayby 4 is a single pitch (20 m.) and starts right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.403620, 23.255125).

The first part of this pitch is an easy slab UIAA IV. After few moves we reach the crack and for about 6 meters we follow the crack. The last part of the crack and the transition to the slab which is located above, is the crux of the route of a maximum difficulty of UIAA V-. This part of the climb can be protected well with nuts, friends or slings. As soon we exit from the crack, we continue to climb in an easy slab UIAA IV until we reach a small ledge. 

Before ending the route, we have to climb a small overhang (about 2 meters) UIAA IV. The overhang might intimidate newcomers in trad climbing, but there are good holds and can be climbed easily. In addition, this part of the climb can be well protected with gear. Once we climb over the overhand, we follow the ridge UIAA III for about 2-3 meters and we look for one of the large boulders in order to establish the anchor point.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on one of the obvious boulders. The belay position is very good and comfortable and with a unique view towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos.

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Climbing as Second and reaching the top of the Rock

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From R1, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:

• Katafyki Gorge
• Pillars of the Wind
• Mount Didimo
• “Monsters of the Wind” Mount Ortholithi
• “The long run” Mount Ortholithi
• Castle Thermisia
• Dardiza Crag
• Dardiza Bayby 1
• Dardiza Bayby 2
• Dardiza Bayby 3

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View from the Top

Once we have reached the top of the rock, we came across the stunning view towards Hydra island, and the overall region of Ermionida. From the top, we could clearly see Mount Didimo, Pillars of the Wind and Mount Ortholithi.

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Return

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go south and we follow the ridge towards the east. We have to downclimb some boulders. The descent is obvious and easy to identify.

The descent takes about 5 minutes.

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Recommended Gear

For this trad climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Mammut Ophir Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• BD HotWire Quickdraws
• Alpine Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 0.5 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Friends / Camalots
• Rock Nuts

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Details of the Climb

• Location: Dardiza Bay
• Starting Point: Dardiza Bay
• Ending Point: Dardiza Bay
• Trail Signs: No
• Difficulty: Medium
• When to Climb: Late Autumn, Winter, Early Spring
• Water Features: None

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.