Climbing in Katafyki Gorge – Ermioni, Argolis

About 4 km away from Ermioni there is a great hiking opportunity in Katafyki Gorge. This route is suitable for all the family due to the easy trail of only 2,5 kilometres. The wild beauty of this gorge will astonish you. Of course, this route can be extended up to 7 kilometres if one wants to hike from Katafyki Gorge up to the village of Fournoi.

Katafyki gorge is a beautiful natural landscape, located between the villages of Fournoi and Ermioni. It consists of a protected area of outstanding beauty and a wild life refuge that attracts the most demanding visitors. Hikers can leave their car in Ermioni and take the path that passes through the dense vegetation of pines, laurels, myrtles, shrubs and other endemic plants. The sound of the running water and the presence of rare animals and wild birds give the impression of an earthly paradise. The imposing rough rocks host mysterious caves, one of which is said to consist of the entrance to the underworld, the point from where Hercules found Cerberus. The locals narrate stories of various offenders that used the caves as refuge.

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Good Dag 6a+

Climbing activities in Katafyki

 Katafyki means refuge in Greek, the villagers used to hide there from the Turks/pirates. A ravine about 3,5km from the coastal town of Ermioni with a main face about 130m high, I have explored the cliffs further up and on the other side but as yet no routes there. Parking directly under the cliff so no walk in! All year climbing as the main wall is shaded after midday. 45 routes here of which 7 are single pitch adventure routes,12 are multi pitch adventure up to 5 pitches 123m, 23 are single pitch sport routes and 3 are multi-pitch bolt routes up to 6 pitches 150m. All adventure routes have bolted belays and abseil pistes are equipped. Walk off o.k. in rockboots. Grades 4c to 7c+

Easy access, parking by the cliff, over 100m high, super rock, quality routes, monster holds, slabs, overhangs, roofs, nice place and all year climbing. What more do you want?

A narrow ravine with a good dirt road running up to the water pumping station for Ermioni, (the bridge was built for a mining railway). A pleasant walk up the wooded valley brings you to a lot more rock.

A good area for young children to play in the dry river bed.

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Towards Katafyki Gorge

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Beautiful road towards Katafyki via organic olive groves
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Climbing wall
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Climbing wall
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Climbing wall
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St. Nikolaos byzantine church

Access:  From the main road below Kranidi take the road towards Ermioni.At the end of a long straight which is slowly being widened (obvious) turn left at a new building.Follow the tarred road to a T junction.Turn left here,drive to the end of the tarred section and then for 500m good dirt road to the ravine.OR drive into Ermioni,turn left and take the coast road to Thermisia. At the end of Ermioni take a left turn signposted Katafyki Ravine.

By Boat: Good harbour in Ermioni, the cliff is ca 4 km walk or get a taxi.

Note: If you are coming from the Didyma area you can save a long drive by taking the small road left just before you come to the village of Fourni, follow this past a church to its end where there is a parking place. From here it is a pleasant 10 min stroll to the main cliff.


The routes

From some great climbs the outstanding line here is The Red Empire which uncompromisingly goes straight up the midlle of the cliff with a large roof at half height. The first ascent was an onsight trad effort with the roof being an aid section. Now fully bolted  (52 bolts) this is a great roof climb 60m off the ground if you can push 7c+ or more.

Covering a lot of spectacular ground at a moderate grade Zorro has all the makings of a modern classic, plenty of bolts, 6 pitches and 150m long. This one zigzags improbably up the cliff at 6b (5c+ obl.). Before you leave, climb Heroes, 2x30m pitches, solid 6a and probably one of the best routes in Argolis.

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Iassu 5B+

Sector: Welcome

The Welcome sector is the first sector as one arrives to Katafyki from Ermioni. It is the most accessible sector and there is plenty of space to even camp overnight. The routes on this sector are very nice and they go from 4b but to 6C. The first routes were intended to be for trad climbing (first ascents by J. Titt), but on a later stage have been bolted by Hans Wenigner. Therefore these routes have big run outs, and especially the first 5 routes.

Most of the belays are closed type belay, thus the climber needs to perform the whole rope operation once on belay. Furthermore, the first 4 routes, is advisable to come down from the rock with abseil, so the ropes will not be damaged from the rocks.

Name

Grade

1

Ade

6b+

2

Jassu

5c

3

Namaste

6a

4

Hola

5c+

5

Bonjour

6a

6

Welcome

5c

7

Bienvenuto

6a

8

Hei

6a+

9

Olala

6b

10

God Dag

6a+

11

Gruezi

5c+

12

Tach

5a

13

Answer

V

14

The Question

5c

15

MT Direct

5c+

16

Sabbatical

6b

17

Savage Girl

6c+

18

Savage Man

6b+

19

Sidestep

6c

20

Force War

6a+

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Olala 6b

Sabbatical 6b

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Force war 6a+

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Sector Heroes

Name

Grade

1

Heroes

L1 6a / L2 6a

2

Rotzfatz

6a+

3

Rockstar

6a

4

Villains

5b+

5

At the edge

L1 6a / L2 5c

6

Saints

5c

7

Last Hero

L1 6b / L2 6a+

8

Brake

5c+

9

Fighting Jim

6b


Sector Red Empire

Name

Grade

1

The Red Empire

L1 6a+ / L2 6c+

L3 7c+ / L4 5b / L5 5b

2

Heaven

5c

3

Sinner’s

5a

4

Prayer

5a

5

Sue’s Party

IV (4L)

6

Zorro

L1 5b+ / L2 6b+ (6a+ obl)

L3 6a / L4 5c / L5 5a / L6 4a

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Sector Handbitter

Name

Grade

1

Yassas

6b

2

Mercy

5c

3

Lucky

6a+

4

Red Rooster

V (5L)

5

Golden Brown

5b

6

Handbitter

5c

7

Brown Sugar

5c

8

Hole in the wall

5b

9

Rolling Stone

6a+

10

Sticky fingers

6a

11

Ruby Tuesday

5c+

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Sector Holiday

Name

Grade

1

He Ha

6a+

2

Sunday outing

V- (5L)

3

Gstotti was here

6a+

4

Loch im Bauch

6a+

5

Holiday

6b

6

Tamara

4c

7

Kryptikos

6c+

8

Verena

4c

9

Via SCKC

6a

10

Mythos

5b+

11

Amstel

5c

12

5l

5b

13

Nine Dragons

5b+

14

Come On

5c+

15

The Dragon’s tail

V


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Additional Information

For further information feel free to check the following websites:

If you liked this post, feel free to check other rock climb activities on the links bellow:

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