Alcyone – 4 pitches, 6a 100 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On May 30, 2023May 30, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

The Pleiades crag is a magnificent formation in the heavens, named after the seven shining stars that make up the Taurus constellation. These stars, known as the Pleiades sisters, were transformed into celestial bodies by the divine hand of Zeus, according to mythology.

As a climber, the Pleiades crag represents a unique challenge and an opportunity for adventure. The crag is said to be a gateway to the heavens, a place where mortals can access the realm of the gods. But getting there is no easy feat.

The path to the Pleiades crag is treacherous and requires a high level of skill and experience. The terrain is rugged, with steep cliffs and sharp rocks.

Alcyone_Pleiades_Crag_Katafyki_Ermionida_14 — Getting ready to climb the first overhang.

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2023

On May 23, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing6 Comments

In the early 2000s, a climbing revolution took place in Ermionida, East Peloponnese, when the esteemed British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek, dedicated a significant amount of time, resources, and effort to equip over 200 routes on the exceptional limestone rocks in the area using stainless steel bolts. The climbing community remains grateful for their contributions towards the development of sport climbing in the region.

Fast forward to 2021, Climb Ermionida (the local climbing community) with the invaluable aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and the Tripolis Mountaineering Club, undertook essential maintenance works on various crags and replaced several anchors with high-quality, certified materials.

Ermionida_Guidebook_main_2023_Cover_900 — Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook edition 2023

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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Nafplio – Karathona & Asini (Greece)

On May 15, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

Nafplio is a charming coastal town located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, surrounded by the Argolic gulg and stunning cliffs that offer a variety of rock climbing opportunities. Whether you’re an experienced climber or a beginner, Nafplio has something for everyone.

One of the most popular climbing areas in Nafplio is the Palamidi fortress, a massive Venetian castle that overlooks the town. The fortress is known for its challenging routes, that range from easy to difficult. The limestone cliffs offer a mix of technical face climbing and steep overhangs, and the views from the top are absolutely breathtaking.

Another great climbing spot in Nafplio is at Karathona beach, located just outside the town. This area features cliffs that offer a mix of sport and trad climbing. The routes here are generally shorter than those at Palamidi, but they offer a more diverse range of climbing styles, including slab, face, and crack climbing.

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Climbing in SunCastle – Ermionida, Argolis | Greece

On May 5, 2023May 7, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing6 Comments

If you’re looking for a new climbing destination, the recently developed SunCastle Crag between the town of Ermioni and Iliokastro may be just the place for you. With its high-quality rock formations and diverse range of routes, this new sport climbing crag is quickly becoming a go-to destination for climbers of all skill levels. In this post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about SunCastle Crag, including access to the crag, what to expect when you visit, and more.

SunCastle_Crag_Climbing_Ermioni_03 — Route: Dragon’s Spine

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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

On May 1, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges.

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Ek Tou Anasfalous VI UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

On April 24, 2023April 26, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general3 Comments

I woke up early on Sunday, feeling excited about the day ahead. I was going trad climbing with a few friends, and I couldn’t wait to get out to the crag and test my skills on the rock face.

After packing all my gear and double-checking my equipment, I hopped into my car and drove out to the crag. As we arrived, I could feel the adrenaline pumping through my veins. I was ready for the challenge.

We took some time to scout out the route and assess the rock quality. We discussed the type of protection we’d need to place as we climbed, and I felt reassured that we were all experienced and knowledgeable about trad climbing techniques.

Ek_Tou_Anasfalous_Web_Images_29 — Topping up the route

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Climbing in Castle Thermisia (Kastro Thermisias) – Ermionida, Argolis (2023 Update)

On March 31, 2023April 18, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing5 Comments

If you’re a climbing enthusiast looking for a breathtaking view, Castle Thermisia Crag is the place to be. Located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, this crag offers stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and the sea. The rock formations are also incredibly diverse, making it an ideal spot for climbers of all skill levels.

The crag is located just a short drive from the city of Ermioni. This makes it easy to combine your climbing adventure with some sightseeing and relaxation in the area. In fact, you can even see surrounding areas such as Nafplio, Hydra, Spetses, Epidauros, Poros and Dokos.

There are several climbing routes available at Castle Thermisia Crag, ranging in difficulty from 5a to 8c+/9a. The majority of the routes are sport climbing routes, with well-maintained bolts and anchors for safety.

Climbing_Castle_Thermisia_Crag_01 — C. Vrochidis projecting Careless Corsair (project)

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Mount Artemisio – Winter Mountaineering ascent via the North-West Couloir

On February 20, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Winter Mountaineering5 Comments

As I trudged up the snow-covered slopes of Mount Artemisio, I felt a surge of excitement and anticipation coursing through my veins. It had been a year since I last set foot on mountain covered with snow, and the thrill of the winter mountaineering activities that awaited me was almost too much to bear.

As I gazed out over the rugged terrain, with the crisp winter air stinging my cheeks and the snow crunching beneath my boots, I knew that I was exactly where I belonged – among the mountains.

In this post, I will recount my recent winter mountaineering ascent via the North West couloir of Mount Artemisio in Argolis, Greece.

Join me on this exhilarating journey as I navigate the treacherous slopes and take in the breathtaking beauty of this majestic mountain.

Winter_Mountaineering_Climb_Mountain_Artemiisio_North_West_Couloir_10 — Enjoying the view and getting ready for the challenge

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On November 1, 2022November 4, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering general6 Comments

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_44 — Climbing up

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

On September 27, 2022May 23, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing8 Comments

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2023) is published
You can find the updated version here.

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.