Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On November 1, 2022November 4, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering general2 Comments

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_44 — Climbing up

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

On September 27, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing7 Comments

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.

Climbing_Ermionida_Guidebook_Cover — Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook Edition 2022

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Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On July 9, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general12 Comments

Summer time in Greece, especially in the southern regions of the country can be rather hot. Therefore climbing near the seaside can be a very nice experience and at the same time bearable with the high temperatures.

In the past year, we have climbed a lot in the Ermionida region and we established several Trad Climbing routes, especially nearby Dardiza Bay.

Dardiza_Bayby_Shitter_18 — Magnificent view from R1

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Fantastic 4 V+ UIAA 200 m. – Trad Climbing in Kantili – Mt. Pateras – Attica

On June 19, 2022June 20, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering generalLeave a comment

It has been almost two years ago since my last visit in the area of Mt. Pateras and specifically in Kantili location. During my previous visit, I had climbed the Horned Owl ridge but while climbing that ridge it struck my attention a rock formation which is located in the opposite from the main peak of Kantili.

After some research, I had noticed that there were a couple of routes and together with a climbing buddy, we decided to pay a visit to the area and give a try to a route named Fantastic 4.

Pateras is a mountain of West Attica, Greece, with an elevation of 1,131 meters. Its highest peak is named Leontari. It is situated between the plain of Eleusis and the plain of Megara, and stretches between the Gulf of Corinth at Aigosthena and the Saronic Gulf near Eleusis.

It is separated from its northern neighbour Cithaeron by the plain of Vilia. The mountain is covered with woods with Aleppo pine and Mediterranean maquis. In the tops of the mountain, that belong to a CORINE biotope, there are firs, of species Abies cephalonica.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160745_989 — First view of the rock and the route

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Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

On May 2, 2022February 25, 2023 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Climbing, Mountaineering general14 Comments

The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of easier and well protected multi-pitch routes arose and in April 2022, a new route was established and bolted by Vertical Art Greece.

Maia_Multi_Pitch_Katafyki_Ermioni_44 — Enjoying the first meters of the entire route

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Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On April 20, 2022May 2, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general5 Comments

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

Dardiza_Bayby5_Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Ermioni_205601_771 — Enjoying the view from the top of the rock

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Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On April 15, 2022May 2, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general8 Comments

Dardiza_Bayby4_Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Ermioni_194914_185 — At the top of the rock, enjoying the views

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Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On April 11, 2022May 2, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general4 Comments

Spring is here, winter mountaineering activities in Greece are almost at the end of the season, and for this reason we decide to return to an area where in the past we have been exploring various climbing possibilities. In fact, last December we climbed two new routes at Dardiza Bay and we had spotted one more rock formation that we wanted to explore.

This time, we wanted to explore if we could climb the north face of a rock formation that is located north-west from Dardiza Bay.

Dardiza_Bayby3_Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Ermioni_31018 — Panoramic view

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Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

On March 22, 2022 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general6 Comments

Greece, is a very rocky and mountainous country and this gives us the possibility and also the opportunity to go and explore the outdoors pretty much all year round. The initial plan was to go from some winter mountaineering on Mt. Erymanthos, but due to extreme weather forecasts we decided to skip the initial plan and to go for some trad climbing in Nafplio.

According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of god Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone. The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when local soldiers participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War alike.

The town recessed during the Roman times and flourished again during the Byzantine times.

In the summer, take an invigorating swim on the beaches of Arvanitia, Karathonas, Nea Kios, Miloi and Kiveri. You will also find a nice beach offering all kinds of facilities in Tolo, only 15 min away from the town.

Epsipetis_Trad_Climbing_Karathona_Nafplio_215301_551 — The Karathona Rock

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Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

On December 31, 2021December 27, 2021 By Olympus MountaineeringIn Mountaineering general15 Comments

It has been quite some time since our last trad climbing adventure and due to the fact weather forecasts were not very favourable, we decided to go to explore a nice rock which is located nearby a town called Ermioni.

Our previous climbing adventure in the area, took place to the magnificent Thermisia Lagoon, and Kouverta beach.

This time, we wanted to explore a nice rock that from far we could spot it could offer a nice climb towards the top.

Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Bayby1_Ermioni_174619_852_b