In my recent years of dedicated climbing improvement, I’ve delved into the fascinating world of climbing shoes, constantly experimenting to find the perfect fit for my climbing adventures. Starting my climbing journey with the reliable La Sportiva Tarantula as a beginner, I took my initial “baby steps” with confidence. However, the quest for the ideal climbing shoe led me to explore diverse models like the Anasazi VCS by 5.10, the Simond Rock+, and the La Sportiva Otaki.
After rigorous testing, I’ve settled into a harmonious partnership with the Simond Rock+, finding satisfaction in its performance and mostly with the VFM proposition. Unfortunately, the La Sportiva Otaki didn’t quite meet my expectations after an extensive trial period. Determined to make an informed decision, I conducted thorough research, tapping into the insights of my fellow climbers within my network.
This led me to consider, for my next climbing companion, the La Sportiva Katana Laces (2022 model)—perhaps the best climbing shoes I’ve ever worn and used. However, having said that, I also had the chance and opportunity to purchase the latest model of Evolv, the Shaman Laces.
Evolv Shaman Laces
When it comes to pushing your climbing limits, having the right gear can make all the difference. Today, we’re diving into the world of performance climbing shoes with a focus on the Evolv Shaman Lace. Known for their innovative designs and attention to detail, Evolv has crafted a shoe that promises to elevate your climbing experience. Let’s lace up and explore what makes the Evolv Shaman a standout choice for climbers seeking precision and power.
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Design and Construction
The visual impact of the Evolv Shaman Lace is captivating, demanding attention from climbers and onlookers alike. The balanced color palette adds a touch of personality.
Complementing the balanced Black, White and Yellow colors is the shoe’s aggressive shape, a testament to Evolv’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of climbing shoe design. The downturned toe and asymmetric profile are not merely stylistic choices but integral components of the “Love Bump” technology. This innovative feature, exclusive to Evolv, revolutionises the climber’s interaction with the rock.
The “Love Bump” technology is ingeniously incorporated into the toe of the shoe, creating a distinct curvature that promotes a downturned shape. This intentional design is a game-changer for climbers tackling challenging routes. The downturned toe enhances the climber’s ability to engage with small holds and pockets, providing a level of precision that is unparalleled. The asymmetric profile further complements this, allowing for a more natural and ergonomic fit that caters to the dynamic movements required in climbing.
As climbers ascend, the “Love Bump” technology acts as a secret weapon, empowering them to confidently toe into minuscule footholds, edges, and micro-features on the rock. The result is a heightened level of control and accuracy, especially on overhanging terrain where maintaining a precise foothold is paramount.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the synthetic upper of the Evolv Shaman Lace serves a dual purpose. Not only does it contribute to the shoe’s striking design, but it also embodies durability and resilience. Crafted to withstand the rigors of intense climbing sessions, the synthetic material offers resistance against abrasion and wear. This ensures that the shoe maintains its structural integrity over time, providing climbers with a reliable and long-lasting companion on their climbing journeys.
Fit & Comfort
While performance is paramount, Evolv claims that comfort is not compromised in the Shaman Lace. The lace-up closure allows for a customizable fit, ensuring that your feet feel snug and secure. The synthetic lining minimizes stretch, providing a consistent feel over time.
The shoe’s midsole features a combination of synthetic and natural materials, striking a balance between stiffness for support on edges and flexibility for sensitivity on smears and slabs. Climbers will appreciate the thoughtful padding around the ankle, offering both protection and comfort during extended climbs.
In my personal journey with the Evolv Shaman Lace, I found that it required approximately 5-6 sessions to fully break in the shoes. Following this break-in period, the shoes did become more comfortable, but it’s worth noting that they didn’t quite reach the same level of comfort as my La Sportiva Katana Laces.
For context, I typically wear a size 46 in trail runners. However, with the Evolv Shaman Lace, I opted for a size 45 to ensure a snug fit. In contrast, my La Sportiva Katana Laces are a size 43.5, and they fit flawlessly, akin to a glove. This variance in sizing between the two brands highlights the importance of trying on climbing shoes before purchase, as individual preferences and foot shapes can significantly impact the fit.
While the Evolv Shaman Lace did require a bit more time to conform to the contours of my feet, the payoff in terms of performance on the rock was substantial. The shoes excelled in providing the precision and control needed for challenging climbs, showcasing their true prowess in demanding situations. Despite the nuanced comfort considerations, the Evolv Shaman Lace’s exceptional climbing performance makes them a worthy contender for climbers seeking a balance between comfort and high-level functionality on the crag.
In the comparison between the Evolv Shaman Lace and the La Sportiva Katana Laces, considering my own feet and the style of climbing I engage in, I find that the La Sportiva Katana Laces offer a superior fit. Specifically, the snug feel in the heel of the Katana Laces contributes to a notably more comfortable experience compared to the Evolv Shaman Lace. Additionally, the heel cup of the Katana Laces conforms better to my heel, surpassing the fit of the Evolv Shaman Lace, despite the latter being tighter on the toes.
Given my personal preferences and experience, if faced with the choice to invest in either of these exceptional pairs of shoes again, I would lean towards the La Sportiva Katana Laces. The superior fit and enhanced comfort make them my preferred option for tackling various climbing challenges.
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Performance on the Rock
When it comes to evaluating a climbing shoe, its prowess on the rock is the ultimate litmus test, and the Evolv Shaman Lace steps up to the challenge with unwavering confidence. The incorporation of a downturned toe, coupled with the revolutionary “Love Bump” technology, elevates its performance to new heights, delivering a dynamic blend of power and precision.
The distinct downturned toe of the Evolv Shaman Lace is a game-changer, empowering climbers to assertively toe into even the smallest footholds. This feature proves invaluable when navigating technical routes, allowing climbers to maintain an edge with unparalleled accuracy. Tackling overhangs becomes a seamless experience as the shoe’s design maximizes contact with the rock, instilling a sense of trust and control in every ascent.
The innovative “Love Bump” technology takes the climbing experience a step further, ensuring that the shoe not only conforms to the natural contours of the foot but also enhances its overall sensitivity. This sensitivity becomes a strategic advantage, enabling climbers to execute nuanced foot placements essential for successfully navigating intricate and demanding routes.
Underpinning this exceptional performance is the Trax SAS rubber outsole, a testament to Evolv’s commitment to top-tier materials. This high-friction rubber outsole grips the rock surface with tenacity, instilling confidence in every step. I have mainly used the Evolv Shaman Lace in limestone and on this type of rock excels in providing reliable traction. I have not used the Evolv Shaman Lace in other type or rock or for indoor climbing.
Trax SAS Rubber
Exploring the advancements in climbing shoe technology, TRAX SAS emerges as a notable innovation in rubber formulations. Unlike conventional rubber blends, TRAX SAS is a proprietary compound that has received positive feedback from experienced climbers. Recognized for its exceptional grip, it has become a preferred choice for resoling competitors’ shoes. Evolv claims that TRAX SAS is developed in collaboration with a qualified rubber scientist specializing in material science and chemical engineering, TRAX SAS reflects a commitment to achieving a balance between stickiness, durability, and overall performance.
Functionally, TRAX SAS is designed with precision, adapting to the intricacies of rock surfaces by conforming to small bumps and irregularities. This engineering results in enhanced grip and traction, qualities essential for navigating challenging routes. Notably, TRAX SAS caters to climbers of various skill levels, offering a distinctive blend of sensitivity and durability that accommodates both seasoned professionals and those at the outset of their climbing adventures.
It’s worth noting a crucial detail: Evolv takes an extra step before shipping their shoes to retailers. They deliberately apply a thin smearing to the outsole, ensuring it boasts maximum grip right out of the box. This thoughtful touch reflects their commitment to delivering a top-notch climbing experience from the very first wear.
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Toebox Technology – Knuckle Box and Love Bump
Navigating the intricacies of climbing, where each movement holds significance, the balance between performance and comfort becomes a crucial consideration. Whether engaging in dynamic gym dynos or conquering challenging crag routes, Evolv’s Toebox Technology stands out as a benchmark in performance and comfort. This proprietary technology integrates a uniquely shaped Knuckle Box with the Love Bump, discreetly contributing to the exceptional comfort of Evolv shoes and challenging the traditional notion of opting for the smallest size available.
Upon inserting your foot into our shoe’s toebox, the Love Bump takes precedence, positioning your toes powerfully without adhering to the outdated “buy-it-as-small-as-you-can” mindset. This design innovation facilitates precise crimping, offering the necessary support to tackle even the smallest dime edges while mitigating toe fatigue. Straying from complexity, it embodies a straightforward, elegant design that enhances your creative expression on the rock.
Evolv Shaman Laces in action
Features & Specifications
- Closure: Lace
- Gender: Unisex
- Materials: Synthetic
- Midsole: MX-P 1.6mm Half-length Love Bump midsole & 1mm half length rubber midsole
- Outsole: 4.2mm TRAX® SAS
- Vegan: Yes
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Disclosure: Product(s) discussed in this article were purchased by Olympus Mountaineering from a retailer. I do not accept compensation or donated product in exchange for media placement or product review coverage.
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