Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2023

In the early 2000s, a climbing revolution took place in Ermionida, East Peloponnese, when the esteemed British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek, dedicated a significant amount of time, resources, and effort to equip over 200 routes on the exceptional limestone rocks in the area using stainless steel bolts. The climbing community remains grateful for their contributions towards the development of sport climbing in the region.

Fast forward to 2021, Climb Ermionida (the local climbing community) with the invaluable aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and the Tripolis Mountaineering Club, undertook essential maintenance works on various crags and replaced several anchors with high-quality, certified materials.

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Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook edition 2023

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Climbing in SunCastle – Ermionida, Argolis | Greece

If you’re looking for a new climbing destination, the recently developed SunCastle Crag between the town of Ermioni and Iliokastro may be just the place for you. With its high-quality rock formations and diverse range of routes, this new sport climbing crag is quickly becoming a go-to destination for climbers of all skill levels. In this post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about SunCastle Crag, including access to the crag, what to expect when you visit, and more.

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Route: Dragon’s Spine

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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida. 

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges. 

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2023) is published
You can find the updated version here.

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.

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Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook Edition 2022

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Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

Summer time in Greece, especially in the southern regions of the country can be rather hot. Therefore  climbing near the seaside can be a very nice experience and at the same time bearable with the high temperatures. 

In the past year, we have climbed a lot in the Ermionida region and we established several Trad Climbing routes, especially nearby Dardiza Bay.

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Magnificent view from R1

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Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

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Enjoying the view from the top of the rock

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Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

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At the top of the rock, enjoying the views

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Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

Spring is here, winter mountaineering activities in Greece are almost at the end of the season, and for this reason we decide to return to an area where in the past we have been exploring various climbing possibilities. In fact, last December we climbed two new routes at Dardiza Bay and we had spotted one more rock formation that we wanted to explore.

This time, we wanted to explore if we could climb the north face of a rock formation that is located north-west from Dardiza Bay.

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Panoramic view

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Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

It has been quite some time since our last trad climbing adventure and due to the fact weather forecasts were not very favourable, we decided to go to explore a nice rock which is located nearby a town called Ermioni.
 
Our previous climbing adventure in the area, took place to the magnificent Thermisia Lagoon, and Kouverta beach.
 
This time, we wanted to explore a nice rock that from far we could spot it could offer a nice climb towards the top. 

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Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

It has been quite some time since our last trad climbing adventure and due to the fact weather forecasts were not very favourable, we decided to go to explore a nice rock which is located nearby a town called Ermioni.
 
Our previous climbing adventure in the area, took place to the magnificent Thermisia Lagoon, and Kouverta beach.
 
This time, we wanted to explore a nice rock that from far we could spot it could offer a nice climb towards the top. 
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Lovely view towards Hydra island

Continue reading “Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni”