Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida.
Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges.
Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.
Climbing in Ermionida
The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well. However all of the climbing areas are only partially developed, which means there is a massive opportunity to establish new routes in the area.
The Argolis area claims to receive over 3,000 hours of sunshine per year and is a popular holiday destination. It also means that it is possible to rock climb virtually all year round in the Argolis region, even in the hot summer months as some crags such as Didyma are at an altitude of over 1,000m.
Crags in Ermionida region
- Didyma
- Pillars of the Wind
- Katafyki Ravine
- Petrogerakas
- Thermisia Castle (Kastro Thermisias)
- Caves of Fragthi
- Rock of Ages
- Dardiza Crag
- Pleiades Crag
Choosing the Right Route
When choosing a trad climbing route in Ermionida, it’s important to consider your skill level, experience, and fitness level. The routes in Ermionida range from beginner to advanced, so it’s important to choose a route that matches your abilities.
Here are some tips for choosing the right trad climbing route in Ermionida:
- Research the routes – Before you head to Ermionida, do some research on the different trad climbing routes available. Look for route descriptions, reviews, and photos to get an idea of what to expect.
- Consider your experience – Choose a route that matches your experience level. If you’re new to trad climbing, start with easier routes that have a lower difficulty rating. As you gain experience, you can gradually work your way up to more challenging routes.
- Check the weather – Before you head out to climb, check the weather forecast. Rain and wind can make climbing conditions dangerous, so it’s important to choose a day with good weather conditions.
- Consider the length of the route – Some trad climbing routes in Ermionida can be quite long, so make sure you have the stamina to complete the climb. If you’re new to climbing or haven’t climbed in a while, start with shorter routes and work your way up to longer climbs.
- Take into account the approach – Some routes require a long approach, while others are easily accessible from the road. Consider your fitness level and the amount of time you have available when choosing a route with a long approach.
- Think about your preferences – Finally, consider your personal preferences when choosing a route. Do you prefer cracks or face climbing? Do you enjoy steep or slab climbs? Choose a route that matches your preferences and will provide a fun and enjoyable climbing experience.
By taking these factors into account, you can choose the right trad climbing route in Ermionida and have a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.
10 Trad Climbing Routes
- Lizard V UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing on top of Thermisia Lagoon
- Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Kouverta Beach – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Monsters of the Wind | Climbing the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
- The Long Run IV+/V- UIAA 900 m.| Climbing the South-East Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
10 Trad Climbing Routes in Ermionida
Lizard V UIAA 90 m.
“Lizard” (V, 90 m.) first ascent was made on 21/03/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, C. Toutoutzis and D. Nakos.
The route follows the rock formation which is located on the south banks of Thermisia lagoon.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multi-pitch climbing with variety in the climbing style, mainly slab climbing and some scrambling too.
Read more about this route here:
Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m.
“Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m.
“Dardiza Bayby 1” (V-, 30 m.) first ascent was made on 19/012/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering and C. Toutoutzis.
The route is situated in the west face of the rock formation which is located south-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m.
“Dardiza Bayby 2” (IV, 30 m.) first ascent was made on 19/012/2021 by C. Toutoutzis and Olympus Mountaineering.
The route is situated in the west face of the rock formation which is located south-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni. The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m.
“Dardiza Bayby 3” (IV, 30 m.) first ascent was made on 10/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering, C. Toutoutzis and V. Christopoulos. The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni. The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m.
“Dardiza Bayby 4” (V-, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by C. Toutoutzis and Olympus Mountaineering.
The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m.
“Dardiza Bayby 5” (IV+, 20 m.) first ascent was made on 14/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering and C. Toutoutzis.
The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV+ UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m.
“Dardiza Bayby Shitter” (V-, 20 m.) first ascent was claimed on 08/07/2022 by V. Christopoulos, Olympus Mountaineering and C. Toutoutzis. The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.
Read more about this route here:
Monsters of the Wind | Climbing the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
“Monsters of the Wind” (IV+/V-, 500 m.) follows the south-western ridge of Mount Ortholithi, offering an atmospheric climb overlooking the Saronic Gulf and Ermionida. The route can be described as an “adventure route” with great potential for free route selection. The route also does not present any difficulties in terms of safety with the use of temporary protection.
Read more about this route here:
The Long Run IV+/V- UIAA 900 m.| Climbing the South-East Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
“The Long Run” (IV+/V-, 900 m.) first ascent was most probably in 2001 by legendary climbers Jim Titt and Hans Weninger. The route follows the south-eastern ridge of Mount Ortholithi, offering an atmospheric climb overlooking the Saronic Gulf and Ermionida. The route can be described as an “adventure route” with great potential for free route selection and does not present any real climbing difficulties, with the exception of several parts of loose rocks.
Read more about this route here:
Safety Considerations
When climbing in Ermionida, safety should always be a top priority. Here are some safety considerations to keep in mind:
- Weather conditions – Check the weather forecast before heading out to climb. Rain and wind can make climbing conditions dangerous, so it’s important to choose a day with good weather conditions.
- Rock quality – The limestone cliffs in Ermionida can be quite sharp and brittle. Before climbing, inspect the rock for loose or unstable sections. Avoid climbing on wet or damp rock, as it can be slippery and dangerous.
- Protection – Trad climbing requires the use of protection, such as cams, nuts, and quickdraws, to protect the climber in case of a fall. Make sure your gear is in good condition and properly placed. Always double-check your placements and test them before committing to a move.
- Partner communication – Good communication with your climbing partner is essential for safety. Establish clear signals and a communication plan before climbing. Make sure you understand each other’s abilities and limitations, and be prepared to adjust your plans if necessary.
- Rope management – Proper rope management is crucial for safety in trad climbing. Make sure your rope is properly coiled and protected from sharp edges. Use rope protectors when necessary and avoid dragging the rope over sharp rock.
- Emergency procedures – Have a plan in case of an emergency, such as a fall or injury. Make sure you have a first aid kit and know how to use it. Have a plan for contacting emergency services and make sure you have the necessary equipment, such as a cell phone or satellite phone.
- Physical fitness – Climbing can be physically demanding, so make sure you are in good physical condition before attempting a climb. Take breaks when necessary and listen to your body.
By following these safety considerations, you can minimize the risks of trad climbing in Ermionida and have a safe and enjoyable climbing experience. Always prioritize safety and be prepared for unexpected situations.
How To Reach Ermionida
BY CAR
The distance from Athens International Airport to Ermionida is covered by car in 2 hours and 30 minutes and by bus in 3 hours.
The drive from Athens follows the direction of Corinth, shortly after the Corinth canal take exit 10 on the right towards Epidavros and under the bridge turn left towards Spetses, Kranidi, Epidavros. At some point you will cross the villages of Koliaki and Trachia and the first village of the Municipality of Ermionida that you will meet on your right is Didyma, where the Didyma crag is located. The route from Corinth to Ermionida (100 km) is rich in changes in the natural environment and takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
BY BOAT
There are at least 3 daily departures from the port of Piraeus, covering the route to Ermioni and Porto Cheli, with stops on the islands of the Argosaronic Gulf, in about 2.00 to 2.30 hours depending on the destination and the stops on the islands.
Before you leave this blog check out the following map
Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.
Olympus Mountaineering 