Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

Spring is here, winter mountaineering activities in Greece are almost at the end of the season, and for this reason we decide to return to an area where in the past we have been exploring various climbing possibilities. In fact, last December we climbed two new routes at Dardiza Bay and we had spotted one more rock formation that we wanted to explore.

This time, we wanted to explore if we could climb the north face of a rock formation that is located north-west from Dardiza Bay.

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Panoramic view

Dardiza bay (3.5 kms from Ermioni) is a pebble shingle beach where many local and visiting Greeks go. Situated alongside the main road, it has a small mobile cantina during high season offering cold drinks and hot snacks.

The beach offers stunning views towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos and is close to some of the most important tourist spots in Ermioni, like KranidiKilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful.


First Ascent

In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guidebooks) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist.


Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m | Climbing in Dardiza Bay

Dardiza Bayby 3” (IV, 30 m.) first ascent was made on 10/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering, C. Toutoutzis and V. Christopoulos. The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.  The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV UIAA.

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The rock and the route
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Dardiza Bayby 3 – the Route

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

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Download FREE Guidebook
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Download FREE Guidebook

Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.


Bellow a topo of the route Dardiza Bayby 3 IV 20 m.

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Dardiza Bayby 3. – Topo

General route information

Dardiza Bayby 3” (IV, 30 m.) first ascent was made on 10/04/2022 by Olympus Mountaineering, C. Toutoutzis and V. Christopoulos. The route is situated in the north face of the rock formation which is located north-west from Dardiza Bay, just few kilometers far from Ermioni.  The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional climbing with a single pitch length and of maximum grade IV UIAA.


Approach

The route is located in the rock formation north west of Dardiza Bay, municipality of Ermionida, Argolis – Greece. 

Its orientation is north. Approaching R0 requires 5 minutes of hiking on an easy trail.

  • Parking spot: 37.403527, 23.256539 
  • Beginning of the route: 37.403620, 23.255125

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Approach hike
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Approach hike

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The rock
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Can you spot the route?
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Approach hike – almost at the base of the rock

Route description

R0 – R1 | IV UIAA – 20 m.

Dardiza Bayby 3 is a single pitch (20 m.) and starts right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.403620, 23.255125).

The first part of this pitch is an easy slab UIAA IV. After few moves we reach the crack and for about 5 meters we follow the crack of a maximum difficulty of UIAA IV. This part of the climb can be protected well with nuts, friends or slings. As soon we exit from the crack, we reach a ledge and right above us is a small overhang and this is the crux of Dardiza Bayby 3. 

The crux can be well protected and although the overhang might intimidate newcomers in trad climbing, there are good holds and can be climbed easily. Once we climb over the overhand, we follow the ridge UIAA III for about 3-4 meters and we look for one of the large boulders in order to establish the ancor point.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on one of the obvious boulders. The belay position is very good and comfortable and with a unique view towards the islands of Hydra and Dokos.

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Starting the route
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Lead climbing Dardiza Bayby 3 route
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placing some protection gear
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lead climbing

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Climbing almost at the crux
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View from R1
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View from R1 – Second climber is almost at the top

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View from R1 – Third climber almost at the top

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Climbing as Second and reaching the top of the Rock

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second climber

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Second climber at the crux of the route
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Climbing
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Climbing – Panoramic view
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almost at the crux of the route
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At the crux of the route
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High five
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At the top of the rock

From R1, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:


View from the Top

Once we have reached the top of the rock, we came across the stunning view towards Hydra island, and the overall region of Ermionida. From the top, we could clearly see Mount DidimoPillars of the Wind and Mount Ortholithi.

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View towards Dardiza bay
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View towards the rock (on the right) with the other two Bayby routes
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View from the top

Return

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go south and we follow the ridge towards the east. We have to downclimb some boulders. The descent is obvious and easy to identify.

The descent takes about 5 minutes.

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Return hike
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Return from the rock

Recommended Gear

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Plenty of gear

For this trad climb, I used the following gear:


Details of the Climb

  • Location: Dardiza Bay
  • Starting Point: Dardiza Bay
  • Ending Point: Dardiza Bay
  • Trail Signs: No
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • When to Climb: Late Autumn, Winter, Early Spring
  • Water Features: None

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

2 thoughts on “Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

  1. Pingback: Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni – Olympus Mountaineering

  2. Pingback: Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni – Olympus Mountaineering

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