In the past few years, with the last decade being particularly remarkable, Sport Climbing has undergone a remarkable transformation – evolving from a niche activity into a global sensation.
This exhilarating surge has also taken hold here in Greece, reshaping the landscape of the climbing scene. As a thrilling consequence, an abundance of fresh climbing havens has emerged across mainland Greece, sprouting up like enchanting mushrooms. These captivating sites are not confined solely to the mainland but have also extended their allure to the Greek islands, most notably the renowned Kalymnos. Yet, it’s the Peloponnese that has witnessed a spectacular surge, with numerous novel climbing destinations being carved into its terrain. Imagine climbing in Corinth, conquering the cliffs in Leonidio, embracing the challenge in Ermionida, finding your ascent in Nafplio and Asini, and now, a new frontier emerges near Kandia.
Among these vibrant climbing realms, the discovery of Charamos Crag owes its inception to the sharp eye of S. Konstadakopoulos. His visionary spirit spurred him to grace the left side of the rock face with an array of meticulously bolted routes. In the pursuit of perfection, C. Rigas was also beckoned forth, contributing his prowess to the right segment of the crag, a canvas for his bolting artistry. E. Chroni, along with other impassioned climbers, lent their efforts to the endeavor, channeling their energies into route preparation and offering steadfast support to the bolting process.
The routes themselves stand as formidable challenges, residing at the zenith of the climbing spectrum, demanding and gratifying for those seeking the pinnacle of their climbing abilities.
About Charamos Crag
If you’re on the lookout for a serene haven to indulge in the joys of Sport Climbing during the tranquil days of late Autumn, Winter, and early Spring, all while relishing delightful moments in the enchanting town of Nafplio, then the Charamos Crag beckons you with open arms.
Embarking on a journey that began in the early months of 2021, the inaugural sector of this climbing sanctuary was meticulously bolted to perfection.
This geological marvel unveils a tapestry of grey-brown and red limestone, a testament to its impeccable quality. The crag boasts an impressive repertoire of 19 meticulously crafted routes, each one a unique challenge waiting to be embraced. A diverse array of climbing styles finds a home here, catering to climbers of every inclination. Yet, it’s the intermediates and seasoned adventurers who will find themselves truly immersed in the wonders that this crag has to offer.
Though the allure of Charamos Crag extends throughout the year, the zenith of its charm is revealed during the transition from late Autumn to the cusp of Spring, a time when the landscape and conditions harmonize to create an ideal playground for climbers.
From the inviting holds of grade 5c to the exhilarating reaches of grade 8, the spectrum of challenges presented by Charamos Crag awaits, promising unforgettable experiences and thrilling conquests for those who dare to ascend.
In a Nutshell
- Exposure: East – Southeast
- Best Season: Autumn – Spring
- Sun: From 10.00 – 16.00
- Walk in: 5 minutes
- Water: None
- Family Friendly: Yes
- Pet Friendly: Yes
- Camping: Kandia village
- Gear: 70 m. rope, 14 quickdraws
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Approach: How to reach Charamos Crag
Starting from the captivating town of Nafplio, set your course towards the mesmerizing realm of Epidaurus. Venture forth for 8 kilometers beyond the borders of Nafplio, and there, a turn to the right shall beckon you onward, guided by the signpost leading to Kandia. Meander through the charming villages of Lefkakia, Drepano, and Vivari, each a waypoint in your journey, until the tapestry of roads ushers you into the embrace of Kandia. A picturesque coastal panorama awaits as you make a graceful left turn onto the inviting coastal road.
At the coordinates 37.524313, 22.961544, a pivotal moment arises—swerve to the left, tracing an unwavering path for approximately 3 kilometers. As the landscape unfolds, another juncture greets you at 37.541761, 22.961652; here, the siren call of the rightward turn beckons. Press forward with unyielding determination, your course true, until the sentinel of the crag unveils itself on your left, a monument to your destination. Park your vehicle along the roadside, poised for the adventure that awaits.
- Parking spot: 37.541259, 22.981453
- Crag location: 37.542547, 22.981409
With your vehicle safely stowed, embrace the journey on foot, tracing the signs that mark an ascent along an inviting uphill trail. Step by step, the path shall unveil the newly minted crag, a testament to vision and dedication, awaiting your arrival. Ascend, and in no time, the newfound marvel shall unfold before you—a canvas of possibilities, a playground of challenges, a sanctuary of climbers’ dreams fulfilled.
The Routes
# | Route Name | Grade | Meters |
---|---|---|---|
01 | Sec Show | 5c+ | 17 |
02 | Καπαρολογία | 6b | 16 |
03 | Πορτοφολάκιας | 6c | 18 |
04 | Πιστολέρο | 6c+ | 20 |
05 | Λεοντόκαρδος | 7a | 18 |
06 | Dois Circulus | 7a+ | 20 |
07 | Μαλλιά κουβάρι | 7c+ | 22 |
08 | Δαιμόνιος πράκτωρ | 7b+ | 25 |
09 | Μεφιστοφελής | 7b+ | 25 |
10 | Δακτυλοσκόπηση | 8? | 20 |
11 | Ξυλοσαυρος | 8? | 20 |
12 | Η χήρα που φορούσε άσπρα | 8? | 20 |
13 | Φρίμπα | 7a | 22 |
14 | Τζακαλάκος | 6a+ | 20 |
15 | Εξαδάκτυλος | 5c | 20 |
16 | Ααγής | 6a | 20 |
17 | Blue Book | 6a+ | 22 |
18 | Λιοδεντρο | 6a | 22 |
19 | Το πηγάδι των ευχών | 6a+ | 22 |
Τζακαλάκος (Tzakalakos) 6a
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Εξαδάκτυλος (Exadaktlilos) 5c
Φρίμπα (Friba) 7a
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See other crags in Argolis region
- Anatoli Sector – Nafplio
- Neraki Sector – Nafplio
- Karathona Sector – Nafplio
- Acronafplia Sector – Nafplio
- Kondyli
- Didyma
- Pillars of the Wind
- Katafyki Ravine
- Petrogerakas
- Thermisia Castle (Kastro Thermisias)
- SunCastle
- Pleiades
- Caves of Fragthi
- Rock of Ages
- Dardiza Crag
Trad/Mountaineering climbing in Argolis region
- Epsipetis V UIAA, 100 m.
- Ek Tou Anasfalous VI UIAA, 90 m.
- O Kipos Tou Profiti UIAA V+, 110 m.
- Diaberis Pothos UIAA VI, 100 m.
- Violontselou UIAA VI-, 100 m
- Dirty Friday UIAA IV+, 95 m.
- Taygete – Multipitch Climb | 6 pitches 6b+ 205 m.
- Maia – Multipitch Climb | 5 pitches 5c 178 m.
- Alcyone – Multipitch Climb | 4 pitches 6a 100 m.
- Monsters of the Wind | Climbing the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
- The Long Run IV+/V- UIAA 900 m.| Climbing the South-East Ridge of Mount Ortholithi
- Lizard V UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing on top of Thermisia Lagoon
- Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Kouverta Beach – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 1 V- UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 2 IV UIAA 30 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 3 IV UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 4 V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
- Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni
Future Crag Development
The development of the Charamos climbing crag began in late 2020 and the first sector was concluded in early 2021, but there is potential for further development.
There is opportunity to explore and bolt new sport climbing routes, some extensions on existing routes and even a new sector could be developed on the southern part of the Charamos crag.
The first sector of the crag, as describe on this guide, besides the personal efforts of S. Konstantakopoulos, C. Rigas & E. Chroni, was also possible, due to the volunteering of the local climbing community.
Should you be interested to contribute to the crag’s further development, please get in touch with the original route setters for further information and collaboration. There is plenty of potential for new intriguing routes.
About Kandia
Kandia is a seaside village in the prefecture of Argolida, built on the shores of the Argolic Gulf, on the route between Iria and Drepano.
In Kandia, besides Sport Climbing you can find one of the largest beaches in Argolida which according to tourists is considered a blue flag. On the beach you will find many fish taverns, cafes and snack bars. In the upper village we find the Holy Temple of three hierarchs and in the Acropolis Panagia Eleousa.
Also, if you choose Kandia for your stay, the hospitable residents with a large number of rental apartments will welcome you with affordable prices for everyone.
Kandia was built shortly after the creation of the Greek state by Arkades and populations from Crete. It got its name from the name by which Heraklion was known during the Venetian period.
An important attraction of the area is the tower of Kandia, also known as the Tower of Aga, which during the Turkish occupation was the residence of a local Ottoman official.
Download for free the complete Charamos Crag Guidebook
- Download the complete Charamos Crag Guidebook PDF in Spreads (Best for Desktop/Tablets)
- Download the complete Charamos Crag Guidebook PDF in Single Pages (Best for Phones)
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Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.
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