Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

Taygete 6b+ 205 m. | 6 Pitches

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) was established and equipped in September 2022 by Vertical Art Greece, and first ascent was claimed by C. Rigas and Olympus Mountaineering.

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) is located a bit southern (to the right) compared to Maia  and starts from a nice dihedral, slightly left from the second obvious ridge of the west face of the Pleiades crag. Pleiades crag, is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) is 6 pitches long and it is fully equipped with bolts and along its entire length so that the use of portable protection (nut, cams etc.) is not necessary. Anchors have been fitted to each belay station.

The quality of the rock is good, but there are also some spots that need attention for eventual loose rocks.

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
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Approach

Approaching Kranidi from the north, you will come across an intersection. Follow the signs to Ermioni and drive along the long straight section until you reach an inconspicuous stone chapel on your left and a small sign towards Katafyki Gorge (oriented towards the opposite direction

so it’s easy to miss!). Take a hard left and follow the tight tarmac road for about 3 km. until you come to an agricultural dirt road with a sign pointing to Katafyki to the west.

Another 500 m. of well trodden dirt road among olive groves and you are at the crag.

Park the car at the St. Nicholas chapel and follow the trail that goes under the bridge. From that point, you will have a clear view of the ridge and you have to follow the cairn (pile of stones). 

From the parking spot till the beginning of the route, you will need about 15 minutes of hike.

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The Route: Tayegete 6b+ 205 m. | 6 Pitches

Pitch 1 (5c – 30 m.)

The first pitch, starts slightly to the left from the main ridge of Pleiades crag and the start is easy.

The route starts with a positive slab, and right after we enter to the zone of some overhangs, where there are good holds and plenty of options for the feet. On the 5th bolt, where the crux of the first pitch is located, you have to climb an overhang and upon that, the climb becomes easier (about 5b) and as soon you reach the ledge, you will easily spot the anchors. 

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Pitch 2 (5c+ – 25 m.)

The second pitch starts right above the R1 and moves with a small traverse to the right with small hold but enough options for the correct foot placement. The crux (5c+) of Pitch 2 is located on the 4th bolt and you have to make sure you clip in before you climb that part. 

As soon you climb the crux, there is a positive slab with tiny holds, but the climb on that part is a bit easier (around 5b).

The belay station is very comfortable and from that point and on you start to enjoy the stunning views bellow at the ravine of Katafyki but also the rest of Taygete route.

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Pitch 3 (5a – 30 m.)

The third pitch starts with a slight exposure and a great view to the south but also the north side of Katafyki Ravine. Although this pitch is not difficult (5a), there are a bit less bolts placed, thus one should climb this pitch carefully.

As soon you climb the ridge, you have to move towards the left, where you will locate R3 and the traverse pitch starts.

The view from R3 is really wonderful with a clear view of both Katafyki crag and Petrogerakas crag.

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Pitch 4 – Traverse (5a – 40 m.)

The fourth pitch is perhaps the less pleasant of all pitches, due to the fact most of this 40 meters pitch is a traverse on a ledge that moves across the entire crag. This pitch is not difficult and there is a small part of scrambling of a maximum difficult around 4c/5a but most of the pitch is simple hike.

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Pitch 5 (6a+ – 40 m.)

The fifth pitch starts right above the R4 and is the nicest pitch of Taygete route, and perhaps one of the nicest and most complete pitches I have every climbed. This is a 40 meters length continuous 6a+ pitch where you will come across different kind of climbing styles, from slab to crag and also a small overhang. The crux of this pitch is located about 8 meters above the R4 and you need to climb along a crack where besides the bolts, you can certainly place other protection gear if you want. 

Arriving at R5, you have splendid view towards the last pitch. Belay location is less comfortable compared to the other ones. 

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Pitch 6 (6b+ – 40 m.)

The sixth and final pitch, technically is the most demanding pitch, with a maximum difficulty of 6b/+. Though, the crux of this pitch and of the entire route consists of some moves that require good coordination and balance. Besides the crux, the rest of the pitch is much easier of a maximum difficulty of around 5c.

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View from the Top

As soon we reach the R6, we come across stunning views towards Ermioni, Hydra, Dokos, Dardiza, Spetses and of course a great “bird’s eye” view towards the Katafyki Climbing Crag.

The weather on that day was really good. Clear sky with a a bit of wind. During our climb, and in the last two pitches, we had a bit of cold wind coming from the north and that made the climbing conditions even better.

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Return from the Route

In order to return, you have to follow direction south east to the obvious tarmac road that is leading to Katafyki Crag. There is not obvious trail for the return, but if you start descending towards the east and later on you get direction to the south you won’t have any difficulty to reach again the parking spot. 

For the return you will need about 25-30 minutes of hike.

ATTENTION: On this route is not recommended to return via abseiling. Should you will to abseil down the route, make sure to climb with 2 half ropes of at least 60 meters. Best way to return is as described above.

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Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• 1 lanyard 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Petzl Adjama Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• 14 Quickdraws
• 4 Alpine Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 1 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 0.75 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar

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Details of the Climb

• Location: Katafyki Ravine
• Route Name: Taygete
• Grade: 6b+
• Length: 205 meters
• Pitches: 6
• Approach: 15 minutes
• Climbing time: 3 hours
• Return: 25-30 minutes
• When to Climb: Autumn, Winter, Spring, early Summer
• Water Features: None

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.