Public VI- UIAA, 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

Visiting the area of Mt. Varasova is always very pleasant and while being there, is always great to try to do as many routes as possible. This is what we have actually done at the beginning of 2023. 

Early morning we climbed Kalydonios Kapros (V+, 100 m) and upon a short break for a snack and a refreshment we decided to go and climb another route, Public.

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View of the rock

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La Sportiva Katana Laces 2022 Climbing Shoes Review

During the past few years, while I have been constantly getting better in climbing, I have been tempted to try and test different kind of climbing shoes. My first pair as a beginner was La Sportiva Tarantula, which was a great pair of shoes for my first “baby steps” in the climbing activities. Upon that, I have tried various other models, such as the Anasazi VCS by 5.10 and the Simond Rock+ and the La Sportiva Otaki. Till this day, most of the times I use the Simond Rock+ and I have been extremely happy, though after a long testing period, I can not say the same about La Sportiva Otaki. Therefore, once again, I did an extensive research, mainly via my network of fellow climbers. My choices where the following two, the La Sportiva Katana Laces (2022 model) or the La Sportiva TC Pro.

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Kalydonios Kapros V+ UIAA, 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

During the winter time, I mostly enjoy to go for Winter Mountaineering activities and the initial plan for the first outdoor trip of 2023, was to visit and climb Mt. Olympus. Though, this year, here in Greece we had minimum snowfalls so far and taking also into the account the high temperatures (for this time of the year), we decided to change our plan and instead of visiting Mt. Olympus for Winter Mountaineering, to visit Mt. Varasova for Trad Climbing.

Our plan was to climb as many multi-pitch routes, in traditional style, thus we selected route in the range of V UIAA and VI UIAA. 

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View of the Rock

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

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Climbing up

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Climbing in Meteora – Vlemma Tou Gerakiou V+ UIAA 120 m. – Fylakas Agiou Pnevmatos

It has been quite some time since my last visit in the area of Meteora, and due to the fact the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing was organising the annual meet up of the climbing community of Greece, I did not loose the chance to join the festivities and be part in of the most spectacular areas of Greece.

Meteora includes about 170 conglomerate summits of various shapes and types, as massive mountains, rocky pinnacles, minor peaks and spires, some of which are truly amazing and bizarre. The range overlooks the village of Kastràki and the town of Kalabàka and features about 850 multi-pitch and single pitch routes. Due to their singularity and a bit of mistery surrounding the place, in addition to the presence of various monasteries, the towers of Meteora are quite famous all over the world.

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Dirty Friday IV+ UIAA 95 m. | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini

It has been almost 2 years since my last visit in the area of Asini and specifically to the Profitis Elias rock.

The Profitis Elias rock stands upwards in the beautiful scenery of Asini is called Profitis Elias. The little chapel that is build on top is dedicated to Prophet Elias, and thus the name of the hill.

The view at the top is panorama (360º) and you can get a pretty good idea of the surrounding area and its morphology. It is on the way to the coast of Tolo, if you are coming from Nafplio. There is a road that takes you from the village of Ag. Paraskevi to the lower parts of the hill. From there it is a 15-20 minutes walk uphill, following the path designated by white crosses, that will take you to the top.

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View of Profitis Elias Rock

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Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of easier and well protected multi-pitch routes arose and in April 2022, a new route was established and bolted by Vertical Art Greece.

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Enjoying the first meters of the entire route

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Lizard V UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing on top of Thermisia Lagoon

Due to the fact in Greece there is a national lockdown (covid-19), the opportunities to visit high mountains are very limited and therefore the past 6 months we did not have the chance to go for any winter mountaineering activity. Though, our passion and pleasure for outdoor activities, lead us to explore previous unexplored areas, and this is what we have done this time.

In the Argolis region, there is a magnificent Biotope with the name Thermisia Lagoon. Thermisia lagoon is an important habitat of rare migratory birds. It is a serene and unique lagoon surrounded by a breathtaking landscape.

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Thermisia Lagoon and Gulf of Hydra

Continue reading “Lizard V UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing on top of Thermisia Lagoon”

La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoes Review

During the past few years, while I have been constantly getting better in climbing, I have been tempted to try and test different kind of climbing shoes. My first pair as a beginner was La Sportiva Tarantula, which was a great pair of shoes for my first “baby steps” in the climbing activities. Upon that, I have tried various other models, such as the Anasazi VCS by 5.10 and the Simond Rock+. While I have been extremely happy and satisfied with the Simond Rock+ i wanted to try a pair of shoes a bit more aggressive and upon several months of research, I have decided to get my feet on the Otaki, by La Sportiva.

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Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Mini Canyon

Here in Greece, the weather condition (mid October) is still really nice and warm and while we are waiting for the first cold days and the first snows on the high peaks of Greece, we decided to go for some sport climbing in a superb location general and multi-pitch climbing, in Leonidio.

The first day, we visited Douvari Sector, which offers plenty of routes on various degrees of difficulty, but the second day, we have visited for first time, perhaps the nicest sport climbing crag I have ever been, the Mini Canyon Sector.

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