If you’re looking for a new climbing destination, the recently developed SunCastle Crag between the town of Ermioni and Iliokastro may be just the place for you. With its high-quality rock formations and diverse range of routes, this new sport climbing crag is quickly becoming a go-to destination for climbers of all skill levels. In this post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about SunCastle Crag, including access to the crag, what to expect when you visit, and more.

About the Crag

The SunCastle Crag was developed and equipped by Climb Ermionida, a small but prominent group of dedicated local climbers to the development of climbing routes and crags in the region. 

Climb Ermionida takes safety seriously and has ensured that the entire crag is equipped with UIAA certified gear by Lappas. These high-quality bolts and anchors have been tested to ensure maximum safety for climbers, giving you peace of mind as you explore the routes.

The crag features high-quality grey limestone and good quality red limestone formations, making it an ideal destination for climbers seeking a new challenge. Although the crag is newly developed, the rock quality is considered excellent overall. However, climbers should note that some routes may have sharp rock formations due to the recent development.

With 10 distinct routes available, climbers of all skill levels can find a challenge at SunCastle Crag. The routes range in grade from 5a to 6b+, ensuring a diverse range of options for climbers to explore. The routes are well-protected, with bolts and anchors installed by Climb Ermionida using UIAA certified gear by Lappas, ensuring a safe and enjoyable climbing experience for all.

Personally, as soon I reached and climbed at SunCastle crag, it soon came in my mind the nearby crag of Castle Thermisia. The rock formation is very similar and the views almost equally stunning.

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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Access to the Crag

Located just 5 km from Ermioni, the SunCastle Crag is easily accessible by car. The access road to the crag is well-maintained, and there is a small parking spot available. Once you arrive at the crag, you’ll find that the approach is relatively easy, requiring only a few minutes of hiking to reach the base of the routes. The crag is located in a picturesque area, with stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

• Proceed westward on Eparchiaki Ermionis Kranidiou towards Epar.Od. Ermionis – Galatas for a distance of 120 meters. 
• Then, make a right turn onto Epar.Od. Ermionis – Galatas and continue for 1.4 kilometers. 
• At the roundabout, take the second exit and continue on Epar.Od. Ermionis – Didima. 
• Your destination will be located on the right-hand side.

From there, only 3 minutes of easy hike is needed in order to reach SunCastle crag.

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The Routes

SunCastle Crag offers 10 distinct routes, ranging in grade from 5a to 6b+. Here’s a closer look at some of the standout routes at the crag:

• “Dragon’s Spine” (5c) – This is perhaps the nicest 5c route in the entire region.
• “Knight’s Honour” (6b) – This route features a technical crux near the top, making it a challenging but rewarding climb.
• “Princess Anna” (6a+) – This route is the most interesting route at the crag, with a gorgeous crack, sustained technical climbing and small holds throughout and a surprise at the end.

No matter which route you choose, you’re sure to have a fun and challenging climb at the SunCastle Crag.

#	Name	Grade
01	Rampart	6a+
02	Joust	5a
03	Chivalry’s Climb	6b
04	Silver Knight	5b
05	The Hilt	5c
06	Dragon’s Spine	5c
07	Knight’s Honour	6b
08	Jester	6b+
09	Princess Anna	6a+
10	Dragon’s Tale This route is best to abseil to minimize rope friction on the rock.	6a

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Dragon’s Spine

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Knight’s Honour

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Crags in Ermionida region

• Didyma
• Pillars of the Wind
• Katafyki Ravine
• Petrogerakas
• Thermisia Castle (Kastro Thermisias)
• Caves of Fragthi
• Rock of Ages
• Dardiza Crag
• Pleiades Crag

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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About Ermionida

Ermionida  is a municipality in the Argolis regional unit, Peloponnese, Greece. The seat of the municipality is the town of Kranidi.

Ermioni is a small fishing town in Ermionida (Argolis) on the east of Peloponnese. The traditional taverns, the cafés, the paved streets, the beautiful houses and the crystal clear beaches around this area are some of the reasons which make this town is an interesting summer destination of Peloponnese. 

While travelling around the area, you will have the chance to admire olive and pine trees along with plenty of bays with turquoise waters but also plenty of climbing crags. Rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the region of Argolis is all on excellent solid grey limestone. 

The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.  

However all of the climbing areas are only partially developed, which means there is a massive opportunity to establish new routes in the area. The area of Argolis gets over 3,000 hours of sunshine per year and is a popular holiday destination. 

This also means that it is possible to rock climb virtually throughout the whole year in the region, even in the hot summer months, as some crags such as Didyma are found on higher elevation – as high as 1,000 m.!

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.