The Pleiades crag is a magnificent formation in the heavens, named after the seven shining stars that make up the Taurus constellation. These stars, known as the Pleiades sisters, were transformed into celestial bodies by the divine hand of Zeus, according to mythology.

From a climber’s perspective, the Pleiades crag represents a unique challenge and an opportunity for adventure. The crag is said to be a gateway to the heavens, a place where mortals can access the realm of the gods. But getting there is no easy feat.

The path to the Pleiades crag is treacherous and requires a high level of skill and experience. The terrain is rugged, with steep cliffs and sharp rocks.

Alcyone 6a 100 m. | 4 Pitches

Alcyone (6a, 100m) was established and equipped in May 2023 by Vertical Art Greece, with the first ascent claimed on 29/5/2023 by K. Grafanakis and Olympus Mountaineering.

Located slightly to the south (right) in comparison to Maia and Taygete, Alcyone (6a, 100m) begins from a narrow ledge on the right side of the second prominent ridge on the west face of the Pleiades crag. The Pleiades crag itself resides on the western wall within the Katafyki ravine, specifically situated between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

Alcyone (6a, 100m) consists of four pitches and is fully equipped with bolts along its entire length, eliminating the need for portable protection such as nuts or cams. Anchors have been installed at each belay station, except for R4, where climbers should secure themselves to a large tree using slings or a cordellette.

The quality of the rock on Alcyone varies. The first two pitches contain sections with slightly loose rock, but the quality greatly improves during the last two pitches, providing a solid and reliable surface for climbers to enjoy.

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Approach

Approaching Kranidi from the north, you will come across an intersection. Follow the signs to Ermioni and drive along the long straight section until you reach an inconspicuous stone chapel on your left and a small sign towards Katafyki Gorge (oriented towards the opposite direction

so it’s easy to miss!). Take a hard left and follow the tight tarmac road for about 3 km. until you come to an agricultural dirt road with a sign pointing to Katafyki to the west.

Another 500 m. of well trodden dirt road among olive groves and you are at the crag.

Park the car at the St. Nicholas chapel and follow the trail that goes under the bridge. From that point, you will have a clear view of the ridge and you have to follow the cairn (pile of stones). 

From the parking spot till the beginning of the route, you will need about 15 minutes of hike.

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Getting Ready for the Climb

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The Route: Alcyone 6a 100 m. | 4 Pitches

Pitch 1 (6a – 30 m.)

The first pitch of Alcyone, situated a few meters to the right (south) of the main ridge of the Pleiades crag, proves to be the most challenging segment of the route.

The ascent commences with a positive slab, followed by the need to surmount overhangs. These overhangs offer moderate holds, requiring careful foot and body placement. The first pitch of Alcyone extends approximately 30 meters, presenting a continuous climb featuring a mix of slab and overhang sections.

Climbers are encouraged to follow the natural line of the rock, seeking the most intuitive path. Upon reaching the prominent ledge, the next step involves a traverse towards the left, where the anchors and R1 come into view.

The belay station situated on this ledge offers both comfort and a delightful vantage point, overlooking the Katafyki and Petrogerakas crags.

Attention: This pitch, in parts might contain some loose rocks, so be delicate while climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pitch 2 (5c – 25 m.)

Commencing just above R1, the second pitch demands a dynamic move to position your body correctly and securely clip in the second bolt. Once you conquer the initial section, a ledge greets you. From this ledge, a slight movement to the right leads to the crux of the pitch, rated at 5c. Be aware that this particular passage may induce a sense of discomfort due to the slight exposure and average rock quality. However, once you successfully navigate this challenging section, the remainder of the pitch becomes considerably easier. After reaching the ledge, a straightforward walk of approximately 8 meters brings you to the belay station.

Rest assured, the belay station provides exceptional comfort, and from this vantage point, you gain clear visibility of the upcoming sections: pitch 3 and pitch 4.

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Pitch 3 (5b – 20 m.)

To embark on the third pitch, you begin slightly to the right from the anchors, aiming for the prominent dihedral. While this section does not pose significant difficulty, ample holds and foothold placements are available. It is important to approach this segment with the mindset of climbing a dihedral, utilizing the natural features to your advantage.

After securing the fifth bolt, veer towards the right to ascend to the ridge’s pinnacle. Although a slight sense of exposure may be felt, the subsequent moves unfold gracefully on remarkably solid rock.

While this pitch is the shortest among the four, it rewards climbers with delightful movements that perfectly align with its grade (5b).

Resting at R3 provides a truly splendid view, encompassing a wonderful panorama. Moreover, this belay station offers both serenity and comfort, allowing climbers to savor the surroundings while regrouping for the continuation of the ascent.

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Pitch 4 – (5c – 25 m.)

As we embark on the fourth and final pitch of Alcyone, we once again encounter a captivating start on a rock of remarkable quality. The challenge on this pitch emerges right from the outset, persisting until the fifth bolt.

Within the initial 10 meters, climbers must maintain a continuous and sustained ascent, facing a difficulty level of around 5c, perhaps even approaching 6a. Once the crux of this pitch is overcome, the climb gradually becomes easier, with a maximum difficulty of approximately 5a.

It is noteworthy that the last anchor is not equipped with bolts but instead relies on a large tree. Therefore, it is crucial to carry slings with you, ensuring the establishment of a secure anchor point.

Upon reaching R4, our journey to conquer Alcyone, one of the seven sisters, draws to a close.

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Return from the Route

To commence the return journey, head eastward for approximately 50 meters before veering right (south) and tracking the path marked by red signs scattered throughout the terrain. Although there may not be a clearly defined trail, the chosen goat trail should be evident enough to follow, leading directly to the Welcome sector of the Katafyki crag.

The return hike is estimated to take around 15-20 minutes to complete.

ATTENTION: On this route is not recommended to return via abseiling. Best way to return is as described above.

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Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• 1 lanyard 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Petzl Hirundos Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• 18 Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 1 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 0.75 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar

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Details of the Climb

• Location: Pleiades Crag | Katafyki Ravine
• Route Name: Alcyone
• Grade: 6a
• Length: 100 meters
• Pitches: 4
• Approach: 15 minutes
• Climbing time: 2 hours
• Return: 15-20 minutes
• When to Climb: Autumn, Winter, Spring, early Summer
• Water Features: None

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF spreads (best for Tablets/Laptops/Desktops)
• Download the complete Interactive Guidebook in PDF single pages (best for Phones)

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.