Public VI- UIAA, 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

Visiting the area of Mt. Varasova is always very pleasant and while being there, is always great to try to do as many routes as possible. This is what we have actually done at the beginning of 2023. 

Early morning we climbed Kalydonios Kapros (V+, 100 m) and upon a short break for a snack and a refreshment we decided to go and climb another route, Public.

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View of the rock

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Kalydonios Kapros V+ UIAA, 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

During the winter time, I mostly enjoy to go for Winter Mountaineering activities and the initial plan for the first outdoor trip of 2023, was to visit and climb Mt. Olympus. Though, this year, here in Greece we had minimum snowfalls so far and taking also into the account the high temperatures (for this time of the year), we decided to change our plan and instead of visiting Mt. Olympus for Winter Mountaineering, to visit Mt. Varasova for Trad Climbing.

Our plan was to climb as many multi-pitch routes, in traditional style, thus we selected route in the range of V UIAA and VI UIAA. 

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View of the Rock

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

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Climbing up

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Hiking in Mikro Panta Vrechi gorge – Evrytania (family friendly)

There are several areas in Greece that I always want to dedicate more time exploring them, but for one or the other reason, I do not visit them that often. This is the region of Evrytania. Evrytania boasts to be the Alpine Greece. The well wooded mountain of Tymfristos and the high altitude has formed a unique and rare unspoiled beauty of dense fir forests and traditionally built little villages. The mountainous region of Evrytania has a wide range villages around the city of Karpenisi and it is rather popular as a winter destination as it has a ski centre on Mount Tymfristos and offers numerous outdoor activities like rafting in Karpenissiotis River and horse back riding in the forests.

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View of the gorge

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Fantastic 4 V+ UIAA 200 m. – Trad Climbing in Kantili – Mt. Pateras – Attica

It has been almost two years ago since my last visit in the area of Mt. Pateras and specifically in Kantili location. During my previous visit, I had climbed the Horned Owl ridge but while climbing that ridge it struck my attention a rock formation which is located in the opposite from the main peak of Kantili. 

After some research, I had noticed that there were a couple of routes and together with a climbing buddy, we decided to pay a visit to the area and give a try to a route named Fantastic 4.

Pateras is a mountain of West Attica, Greece, with an elevation of 1,131 meters. Its highest peak is named Leontari. It is situated between the plain of Eleusis and the plain of Megara, and stretches between the Gulf of Corinth at Aigosthena and the Saronic Gulf near Eleusis.

It is separated from its northern neighbour Cithaeron by the plain of Vilia. The mountain is covered with woods with Aleppo pine and Mediterranean maquis. In the tops of the mountain, that belong to a CORINE biotope, there are firs, of species Abies cephalonica.

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First view of the rock and the route

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Dirty Friday IV+ UIAA 95 m. | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini

It has been almost 2 years since my last visit in the area of Asini and specifically to the Profitis Elias rock.

The Profitis Elias rock stands upwards in the beautiful scenery of Asini is called Profitis Elias. The little chapel that is build on top is dedicated to Prophet Elias, and thus the name of the hill.

The view at the top is panorama (360º) and you can get a pretty good idea of the surrounding area and its morphology. It is on the way to the coast of Tolo, if you are coming from Nafplio. There is a road that takes you from the village of Ag. Paraskevi to the lower parts of the hill. From there it is a 15-20 minutes walk uphill, following the path designated by white crosses, that will take you to the top.

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View of Profitis Elias Rock

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Hiking, Scrambling and Climbing the Flabouri Ridge – Parnitha

Our previous post was dedicated to the first outdoor activity post covid-19 lockdown and this post is dedicated to the second excursion in one of the most visited mountains of Greece, mount Parnitha.

For training purposes, the route we have selected was of mixed difficulty which offered hiking, scrambling and even IV UIAA climbing, the Flabouri Ridge route.

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View of the Flabouri Ridge and the city of Athens

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Climbing in Meteora – Pillar of Rain – Doupiani Rock

In the past couple of days we have climbed twi different routes in Doupiani and we thought it would be great to climb a third one. Our first experience with Doupiani was really positive, and due to the fact the second route was rather demanding, we decided to go for an easier third route, the Pillar of Rain.

Doupiani Rock is for sure one of the most attended rock climbing destination of the Meteora (Μετέωρα) area, whose meaning is literally hanging in the air“, a charming and suggestive climbing site located in the Thessaly region of Greece.

Meteora includes about 170 conglomerate summits of various shapes and types, as massive mountains, rocky pinnacles, minor peaks and spires, some of which are truly amazing and bizarre. The range overlooks the village of Kastràki and the town of Kalabàka and features about 850 multi-pitch and single pitch routes. Due to their singularity and a bit of mistery surrounding the place, in addition to the presence of various monasteries, the towers of Meteora are quite famous all over the world.

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Pillar of Rain V+ Starting point

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Climbing in Meteora – Sudostwand Doupiani – Southeast Wall – Plaka

Doupiani Rock is for sure one of the most attended rock climbing destination of the Meteora (Μετέωρα) area, whose meaning is literally hanging in the air“, a charming and suggestive climbing site located in the Thessaly region of Greece.

Meteora includes about 170 conglomerate summits of various shapes and types, as massive mountains, rocky pinnacles, minor peaks and spires, some of which are truly amazing and bizarre. The range overlooks the village of Kastràki and the town of Kalabàka and features about 850 multi-pitch and single pitch routes. Due to their singularity and a bit of mistery surrounding the place, in addition to the presence of various monasteries, the towers of Meteora are quite famous all over the world.

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South-east face – Sudostwand

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Hiking and Scrambling on Oligyrtos’ peak Chionotripa

Oligyrtos is a mountain located at the junction of Arcadia, Corinthia and Argolis in the northeastern Peloponnese in Greece. The mountain diagonally stretches from southwest to northeast, with about 35 km length and 15 to 20 km breadth. Its highest point is the peak Skipiza, at 1,935 m elevation. Other peaks are Gkrimini (1,831 m), Parnias (1,800 m), Skiathis (1,777 m) and Mavrovouni (1,695 m).

Neighbouring mountain ranges are Kyllini (Ziria) to the north, Mainalo to the southwest, Mount Trachi to the south and Chelmos (Aroania) to the northwest. Local flora consists mostly of grasslands and bushes. Pine trees and barren lands are found in higher areas. It is drained towards the Lake Stymphalia (which is located nearby Lake Doxa) to the north, and towards the plain of Kandila to the south.

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Starting point of the route. Lafka Village – Saint Athanasios Square.

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