Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Kouverta Beach – Ermioni

It has been about a month since our last trad climbing adventure and this time we have decided to go to explore one more easy going and hassle free ridge.

Our previous climbing adventure, took place to the magnificent Thermisia Lagoon, and this time, again we climbed next to the seaside, though at a beautiful beach near Ermioni, named Kouverta.

This ridge was spotted quite some time ago, during our last visit to the region, and this time we decided to go to explore and eventually to climb it. And this is what we have actually done.

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193518_061_b — View towards Kouverta beach

A splendid bay with blue crystalline waters just 9 km south of Ermioni Town. Kouverta beach is definitely an ideal option for swimming and relaxing in the tranquil surrounding. The beach offers stunning views to the sea and is found close to some of the most important tourist spots in Ermioni, like Kranidi, Kilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful.

First Ascent

In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guidebooks) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist.

Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m | Climbing in Kouverta Beach

“Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel.

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Sketch

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover_Booklet — Download for free the Guidebook

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover_Internal — Download for free the Guidebook

Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.

Bellow a topo of the route Souzaki Mouzaki V- 50 m.

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Topo — Souzaki Mouzaki – Topo Map

General route information

“Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel.

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.

Approach

Only 10 minutes drive from the town of Ermioni and 7.8 km to reach the Profitis Elias chapel where we can park the car. Starting from Ermioni we head west towards Kranidi and at 2.7km we turn left following the coastal road that leads to Kouverta beach.

From there we follow the road to Profitis Elias chapel where we park the car. From the parking spot, and move towards the north for 5 minutes following the goat trail until we will reach the beginning of the route on this point: 37.352217, 23.253646

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193549_332 — Parking Spot

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193620_023 — Goat trail

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193739_530 — Profitis Elias Chapel and Kouverta beach as seen from R0

Route description

R0 – R1 | V- UIAA – 20 m.

The route starts with the first pitch (20 m.) right from the base of the west side of the rock (37.352217, 23.253646).

The first part of this pitch is a nice slab and actually is also the crux of the route with about 10 m. of vertical climb UIAA V-. This first part seems good to be protected, but while climbing, the lead climbers needs some extra effort in order to protect the crux of the route. The crux, is a vertical slab with good hand holds, but there is need of good footwork. Then, the route continues through the ridge with a UIAA III degree passage and we climb up up to a ledge where we belay.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on an obvious boulder. The belay position is very good and comfortable.

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194021_558 — Souzaki Mouzaki ridge as seen from the side

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193919_108 — First pitch as see from the side

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_193824_945 — Beginning of the route Crux V-

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194330_421 — Part of Pitch one

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194146_901 — Getting ready for the lead climb

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194420_268 — Starting to climb

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194453_428 — Placing the first nut

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_214745_825 — at the crux of pitch 1

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194534_865 — at the crux of pitch one

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_194733_805 — Belay R1

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_195316_208 — steep climb

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_195115_093 — climbing the crux of pitch 1

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_195452_897 — second climber just after the crux

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_195553_413 — second climber almost at R1

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_195637_825 — third climber almost at R1

R1 – R2 | IV UIAA – 30 m.

The second pitch (30 m.), starts with an easy slab of UIAA IV and we place the first good protection (nut) on a solid boulder (on our left side). As soon we reach the top of the slab, we follow the ridge till an obvious tower. As soon we reach the base of the tower, we place some gear and we traverse the tower from the right side. On that point we have two moves where we are have to pay attention, due to the exposure of that part of the climb.

As soon we overcome the tower (from the right side), we follow again the ridge for about 10 meters of about UIAA III. We can belay with two large slings or kevlar cordelette on two large boulders. The belay position is good, very comfortable and with a unique view towards the Kouverta Beach and the town of Ermioni.

From R2, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201101_678 — Pitch 2 – the route

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201143_750 — starting pitch 2

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201216_744 — at the crux of pitch 2

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201250_647 — looking from the top

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201339_181 — climbing up

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201426_420 — climbing up

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201605_248 — Almost at R2 – Beautiful view

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_211839_379 — R2 – Comfortable ledge

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201802_376 — enjoying the view

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_201652_398 — stunning view towards Ermioni from R2

View from the Top

Once we have reached the top of the rock, we came across the stunning view towards Ermioni, and the overall region of Ermionida. From the top, we could clearly see Mount Didimo, Pillars of the Wind and Mount Ortholithi.

Return

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go south and on point 37.352081, 23.254067 we change direction towards the west. The descent is through bushes and trees and there is not any obvious path.

The descent takes about 20 minutes.

Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
The North Face Vert 27 lt. Back pack
5 lanyards 60 cm
1 lanyard 120 cm
4 locking carabiners
1 HMS carabiner
Mammut Ophir Harness
Simond Climbing shoes
BD HotWire Quickdraws
Alpine Quickdraws
Cordelette for prusik
2 x 60 m. rope
4 carabiners
Reverso
1.5 lt of Water
1 energy bar
Friends / Camalots
Rock Nuts

Details of the Climb

Location: Kouverta Beach
Starting Point: Profitis Elias
Ending Point:Profitis Elias
Trail Signs: No
Difficulty: Medium
When to Climb: Late Autumn, Winter, Early Spring
Water Features: None

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover — Download for free the Guidebook

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.