Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Kouverta Beach – Ermioni

It has been about a month since our last trad climbing adventure and this time we have decided to go to explore one more easy going and hassle free ridge.
 
Our previous climbing adventure, took place to the magnificent Thermisia Lagoon, and this time, again we climbed next to the seaside, though at a beautiful beach near Ermioni, named Kouverta.
 
This ridge was spotted quite some time ago, during our last visit to the region, and this time we decided to go to explore and eventually to climb it. And this is what we have actually done.
 
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View towards Kouverta beach

A splendid bay with blue crystalline waters just 9 km south of Ermioni Town. Kouverta beach is definitely an ideal option for swimming and relaxing in the tranquil surrounding. The beach offers stunning views to the sea and is found close to some of the most important tourist spots in Ermioni, like Kranidi, Kilada, or Porto Heli, which remain unspoilt and beautiful.


First Ascent

In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guidebooks) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist.


Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m | Climbing in Kouverta Beach

Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel. 
 
The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.
Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Sketch

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover_Booklet
Download for free the Guidebook


Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover_Internal
Download for free the Guidebook


Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.

Bellow a topo of the route Souzaki Mouzaki V- 50 m.

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Topo
Souzaki Mouzaki – Topo Map

General route information

Souzaki Mouzaki” (V-, 50 m.) first ascent was made on 01/05/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, D. Nakos and  el_houdal. The route follows the rock formation which is located east from Kouverta beach of Ermioni, and specifically just above the Profitis Elias of Mouzaki chapel. 

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with only two pitches length and of maximum grade V- UIAA.


Approach

Only 10 minutes drive from the town of Ermioni and 7.8 km to reach the Profitis Elias chapel where we can park the car. Starting from Ermioni we head west towards Kranidi and at 2.7km we turn left following the coastal road that leads to Kouverta beach.  

From there we follow the road to Profitis Elias chapel where we park the car. From the parking spot, and move towards the north for 5 minutes following the goat trail until we will reach the beginning of the route on this point:  37.352217, 23.253646

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Parking Spot
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Goat trail
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Profitis Elias Chapel and Kouverta beach as seen from R0

Route description

R0 – R1 | V- UIAA – 20 m.

The route starts with the first pitch (20 m.) right from the base of the west side of the rock (37.352217, 23.253646).

The first part of this pitch is a nice slab and actually is also the crux of the route with about 10 m. of vertical climb UIAA V-. This first part seems good to be protected, but while climbing, the lead climbers needs some extra effort in order to protect the crux of the route. The crux, is a vertical slab with good hand holds, but there is need of good footwork. Then, the route continues through the ridge with a UIAA III degree passage and we climb up up to a ledge where we belay. 

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette and an additional nut or friend on an obvious boulder. The belay position is very good and comfortable.

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Souzaki Mouzaki ridge as seen from the side
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First pitch as see from the side
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Beginning of the route Crux V-
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Part of Pitch one
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Getting ready for the lead climb
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Starting to climb
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Placing the first nut
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at the crux of pitch 1
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at the crux of pitch one
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Belay R1
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steep climb
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climbing the crux of pitch 1
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second climber just after the crux
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second climber almost at R1
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third climber almost at R1

R1 – R2 | IV UIAA – 30 m.

The second pitch (30 m.), starts with an easy slab of UIAA IV and we place the first good protection (nut) on a solid boulder (on our left side). As soon we reach the top of the slab, we follow the ridge till an obvious tower. As soon we reach the base of the tower, we place some gear and we traverse the tower from the right side. On that point we have two moves where we are have to pay attention, due to the exposure of that part of the climb. 

As soon we overcome the tower (from the right side), we follow again the ridge for about 10 meters of about UIAA III. We can belay with two large slings or kevlar cordelette on two large boulders. The belay position is good, very comfortable and with a unique view towards the Kouverta Beach and the town of Ermioni.

From R2, we can also clearly see the following areas of climbing interest:

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Pitch 2 – the route
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starting pitch 2
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at the crux of pitch 2
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looking from the top
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climbing up
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climbing up
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Almost at R2 – Beautiful view
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R2 – Comfortable ledge
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enjoying the view
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stunning view towards Ermioni from R2

View from the Top

Once we have reached the top of the rock, we came across the stunning view towards Ermioni, and the overall region of Ermionida. From the top, we could clearly see Mount DidimoPillars of the Wind and Mount Ortholithi.


Return

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go south and on point 37.352081, 23.254067 we change direction towards the west. The descent is through bushes and trees and there is not any obvious path.

The descent takes about 20 minutes.


Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:


Details of the Climb

  • Location: Kouverta Beach
  • Starting Point: Profitis Elias 
  • Ending Point:Profitis Elias
  • Trail Signs: No
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • When to Climb: Late Autumn, Winter, Early Spring
  • Water Features: None

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Ermioni_Souzaki_Mouzaki_route_Cover
Download for free the Guidebook

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

6 thoughts on “Souzaki Mouzaki V- UIAA 50 m. | Trad Climbing in Kouverta Beach – Ermioni

  1. Once again a very interesting and informative post even for a non mountaineer like me. I’m very impressed by your ability to see the path that is to be taken. I’m sure it comes with experience. And I envy you that view! 🤩

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for reading and of course for your very positive comment.

      I’m happy to know that such posts are interesting and appealing also to non mountaineers, cause indeed, i can imagine with all the technical info and route description might be a bit confusing for people that don’t climb.

      Nevertheless, the view from the top of the ridge was really nice and impressive.

      Again, thank you for reading, commenting and your overall support.

      Liked by 2 people

  2. A very informative post for all the rock climbers and those who don’t mind a decent hiking expedition. Pictures of your climb are exciting, and the view from top simply breathtaking – a great reward for all the hard work in the end! Love adventurous outings and posts like these are such a refreshed! Thanks for sharing your experience!

    Like

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