Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

Greece, is a very rocky and mountainous country and this gives us the possibility and also the opportunity to go and explore the outdoors pretty much all year round. The initial plan was to go from some winter mountaineering on Mt. Erymanthos, but due to extreme weather forecasts we decided to skip the initial plan and to go for some trad climbing in Nafplio.

According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of god Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone. The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when local soldiers participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War alike. 

The town recessed during the Roman times and flourished again during the Byzantine times.

In the summer, take an invigorating swim on the beaches of Arvanitia, Karathonas, Nea Kios, Miloi and Kiveri. You will also find a nice beach offering all kinds of facilities in Tolo, only 15 min away from the town.

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The Karathona Rock

Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m. | Climbing in Karathona beach

Epsipetis” (V, 100 m.) first ascent was made on 19/02/2020 by K. Tsoukleidis and C. Rigas.

The route is in the rock formation which is located on Karathona beach, in Nafplio. 

The route can be described as an adventurous traditional multi-pitch climbing with variety in the climbing style, mainly slab, dihedral and ridge climbing.

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Epsipetis Route Sketch
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The route

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Epsipetis_Trad_Climbing_Karathona_Nafplio_Cover_Booklet
Download from FREE the guidebook
Epsipetis_Trad_Climbing_Karathona_Nafplio_Internal_Booklet
Download for FREE the guidebook

Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m. | Topographic Map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.

Bellow a topo of the route Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m.

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Topo of the route

General route information

Epsipetis” (V, 100 m.) first ascent was made on 19/02/2020 by K. Tsoukleidis and C. Rigas.

The route is in the rock formation which is located on Karathona beach, in Nafplio. The route can be described as an adventurous traditional multi-pitch climbing with variety in the climbing style, mainly slab, dihedral and ridge climbing.

 On 19/03/2022, a first repeat of the route was accomplished by C. Rigas, Olympus Mountaineering and G. Boras. The three, equipped the route with one bolt on R1 and one bolt on R2, though without altering the route’s character.


Approach

The route is located in Karathona beach, in Nafplio, Argolis – Greece.  Its orientation is south. Approaching R0 requires 10 minutes of hiking on a goat trail.

  • Parking spot coordinates: 37.542000, 22.826482
  • Beginning of the route: 37.542950, 22.829169

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Approach hike
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View of the entire route

Route description

R0 – R1 | IV UIAA – 40 m.

The route starts with the first pitch (40 m.) right from the base of the south side of the rock (37.542950, 22.829169).

The first part of this pitch starts with an easy climb of about 8 meters of grade III UIAA up to the point we reach the first small ridge. On that point, we need to climb on top of the small ridge (on our right side we have a slab) and the grade is about UIAA IV. Pay attention to a loose rocks while you climb this part.

As soon we climb over this part, we come across a wide dihedral and we have the option to either climb on the small ridge or go via the dihedral. Both options are of a consistent UIAA IV. This second part of the climb, can be well protected with either nuts or slings on rocks. Having passed this section, we climb up another slab of maximum UIAA IV and we end up on a comfortable ledge with some big blocks on our right side.  

On that ledge, you will find one bolt with a ring and together with some extra gear you can make the first belay. The belay position is very good and comfortable and with a good view.

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Let’s start climbing
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Climbing Pitch 1
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Beginning of Epsipetis route
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Climbing Pitch 1
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Anchors at R 01
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At R 01 – looking down from the ledge
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climbing buddy is almost at R 01
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Second climbing buddy almost at R 01

Bolt Placement at R01

In order to encourage other fellow climbers to repeat this route, we equipped the route with one bolt on R1 and one bolt on R2, though without altering the route’s character.

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Drilling to place a bolt with a ring at R 01 (we placed the bolt in order to encourage more climbers to climb this route)
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placing the bolt
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One bolt with ring placed on R 01

R1 – R2 | V- UIAA – 35 m.

The second pitch (35 m.), we have to move for about 4-5 meters left (traversing to west) and upon that we have to climb an easy slab of UIAA IV and we place the first good protection (sling) on a small tree (on our left side). As soon we reach the top of the slab, we come on a dihedral where the crux of this pitch is located. The climbing grade of this section is about UIAA V- but it can be well protected. Having passed this dihedral, we continue to follow the ridge maximum UIAA IV up to an obvious slab that we pass it from the right side. While we continue to climb we come across the first “red” rocks and this is where we can belay.

Also on this belay location you will find one bolt with a ring and together with some extra gear you can make the second belay. The belay position is good, very comfortable and with a unique view towards Karathona beach.

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Starting Pitch 2 (traversing to the left for few meters)
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Slab climb UIAA IV
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Placing protection (sling on the tree)
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Crux of Pitch 2 (V- UIAA)
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Looking down towards the ledge of R 01
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Getting closer to R 02
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Almost at R 02
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Anchors at R02
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View from R02
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Climbing buddy almost at R 02

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Safe at R 02

Bolt Placement at R02

In order to encourage other fellow climbers to repeat this route, we equipped the route with one bolt on R1 and one bolt on R2, though without altering the route’s character.

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Drilling at R02
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Bolt with ring at R02

R2 – R3 | V UIAA – 25 m.

For the the third and final pitch (25 m.) we climb directly straight up from the belay location up to the point we come across the crux of the entire route. The crux, basically consists of a couple of moves that we have to climb on top of a boulder and the maximum estimated difficulty is UIAA V. We continue to climb on a slab of maximum UIAA IV and our goal is to get again on top of the ridge. As we approach the end of the route, the degree of difficulty decreases UIAA III to a scramble.

We can belay on one of the large boulders by using a double size sling or kevlar cordelette. 

At this point the view towards Karathona beach, and even Astros and Mount Parnon becomes unique.

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Beginning of Pitch 3

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Checking the route
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Climbing

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At the crux of the route (V UIAA)
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View from R03
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At the top of the route

View from the Top

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View from the Top of the Rock
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Peak of the rock

Return from the route

Our return route starts from the top of the route. We initially go north and on point 37.543471, 22.830226 we change direction towards the west. The descent is through a goat trail.

The descent takes about 15 minutes.

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Organising and collecting our gear
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Return hike
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Return hike
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Return hike

Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:


Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Epsipetis_Cover_S


Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

6 thoughts on “Epsipetis V UIAA 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

    1. You make a good point.

      The easiest way to reach the peak of the rock, is via the goat trail from the west face of the rock. Though, we tent to like to challenge a bit ourselves and to climb as straight up, as possible!

      Thanks for your comment.

      Liked by 1 person

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