Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Mini Canyon

Here in Greece, the weather condition (mid October) is still really nice and warm and while we are waiting for the first cold days and the first snows on the high peaks of Greece, we decided to go for some sport climbing in a superb location general and multi-pitch climbing, in Leonidio.

The first day, we visited Douvari Sector, which offers plenty of routes on various degrees of difficulty, but the second day, we have visited for first time, perhaps the nicest sport climbing crag I have ever been, the Mini Canyon Sector.

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About Leonidio

Leonidio (Greek: Λεωνίδιο) is a town and a former municipality in Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the municipality South Kynouria, of which it is a municipal unit. The town of Leonidio, with a population of 3.826, emerges from a spectacular landscape, bound by two abrupt mountainsides enclosing the town from the north and south.

The River Dafnon passes through the town, and its banks are linked with three bridges. The town is capital of the Tsakonia region, notable for its cultural and linguistic particularities, and the settlement itself offers striking and picturesque architecture; now a protected architectural site, there are very strict regulations for building within the town’s limits.


See more climbing in Leonidio here:


Most climbing in Leonidio happens at crags on the surrounding hillsides, not directly above town. The cliffs of Leonidio are highly-featured limestone, and climbing is enjoyable and varied: tufa columns, smooth crimpy walls, caves with stalactites, grey balancy walls.

Climbing conditions in Leonidio are ideal for winter climbing, as the concave red cliff above the town acts as a natural shield against bad weather. The best period for climbing in Leonidio is November to April, though some crags higher up in the hills are good for climbing even on hot spring, fall or summer days.


Approach

Mini Canyon is a sector with very short approach, in the shade almost all day, located in a serene spot near old olive trees and the sea, and with good pocketed limestone and pleasant mid-grade routes. You can park the car on the road that leads to Leonidio on the following point:

  • Parking lot Mini Canyon (and Sabaton) 37.170327, 22.898066

Once you park your car, follow the signs to Sabaton Sector and as soon you reach Sabaton sector then continue towards the right on a trail that leads to Mini Canyon.

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Sector Mini Canyon

Mini Canyon is a very pleasant small canyon that provides great sport climbing routes for all type of  climbers.

Highlight route is Kopros (5c) with amazing view towards the Myrteon sea.

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The Routes

Name

Grade

Meters

God save Leonidio

6c+

15

God save Leonidio etx.

7a+

25

Heavy Music

7a+

25

And Cakes by Tonnes

6c+

25

Angels calling

4

10

Malakamoumou

5b

10

Malakamoumou ext.

6a

25

Aghios Thomas

6c+

20

Kubinos

6c+

15

Ta mate sou

6b+

18

Bad Magic

6b+

18

Kopros

5c

20

Stone monkey

7a+

22

Masturbators in the elevator

7b

22

Diablesses rouges

7a

22

Portokalia

5c

15

Portokalia ext.

6a

22

Faklana

5b

15

Faklana ext.

6b+

22

Ride the ridge

6b

20

Maminas

5c

18

Moving target

6b+

18

Best and worst

6b

10

Manoware

6a+

10

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Leonidio besides rock climbing

  • Go mountain biking. Want to test your endurance? Bring your mountain bike in the cooler season and challenge yourself to a ride on the curvy and steep mountain road to Kosmas village. Stop there for a great view, and if you get hungry, don’t miss the traditional goat soup.
  • Visit historic monasteries, traditional mansions and world-class archaeological sites. The famous monastery of Elona is hidden in the cliffs just a stone’s throw away. The traditional mansions of Leonidio, such as the Tsikaliotis House, showcase local architecture at its best. And numerous world-renowned archaeological sites, such as the Unesco World Heritage sites of Mycenae and Tiryns, are just over an hour away.
  • Dive into the blue. The magical underwater world of the Myrtoan Sea awaits, and if it’s your lucky day you may even get to hang out with dolphins. If all you want is a day at the beach, no problem! We promise you can find your own perfect spot at one of many beaches around Leonidio.
  • Experience local festivities and tradition. Easter celebrations at Leonidio, during which softly lit hot air balloons are released above the water at dusk, are not to miss. Famous also are the regional festivals (called panigíri) throughout summer, at the height of which Leonidio also celebrates one of its most acclaimed products, the Tsakonian eggplant (melitzána), with Melitzazz, an annual multi-day festival bringing together food and jazz music!

For more info about Rock climbing in Leonidio, feel free to visit the following websites:


Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

9 thoughts on “Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Mini Canyon

  1. You not only have amazing photos, you are also very knowledgeable. I am going to follow your page. What type of camera do you use? I want to invest in one but trying to figure out the best one for outdoors.

    Like

    1. Thank you for reading this post and nice to know you like content and the photos too.

      With regards the photos, I just use my mobile phone, so no special equipment for photography. Of course, there are plenty of great cameras, but personally, I just use the camera of my mobile phone.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. I passed this post on to my niece (Canadian climber). She was excited to read about Leonedio. It’s high on her list for climbing spots. Being in Greece right now sounds great…escape the cold, wet Vancouver (it will have to be in my dreams for now).

    Like

  3. Pingback: Hiking in Kilada – Patima Park – Ermionida (family friendly) – Olympus Mountaineering

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