Here in Greece, the weather condition (mid October) is still really nice and warm and while we are waiting for the first cold days and the first snows on the high peaks of Greece, we decided to go for some sport climbing in a superb location general and multi-pitch climbing, in Leonidio.

The first day, we visited Douvari Sector, which offers plenty of routes on various degrees of difficulty, but the second day, we have visited for first time, perhaps the nicest sport climbing crag I have ever been, the Mini Canyon Sector.

About Leonidio

Leonidio (Greek: Λεωνίδιο) is a town and a former municipality in Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the municipality South Kynouria, of which it is a municipal unit. The town of Leonidio, with a population of 3.826, emerges from a spectacular landscape, bound by two abrupt mountainsides enclosing the town from the north and south.

The River Dafnon passes through the town, and its banks are linked with three bridges. The town is capital of the Tsakonia region, notable for its cultural and linguistic particularities, and the settlement itself offers striking and picturesque architecture; now a protected architectural site, there are very strict regulations for building within the town’s limits.

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See more climbing in Leonidio here:

• Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Douvari
• Multipitch climb in Leonidio – Mignonette (kokkinovrachos)
• Climbing in Leonidio

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Most climbing in Leonidio happens at crags on the surrounding hillsides, not directly above town. The cliffs of Leonidio are highly-featured limestone, and climbing is enjoyable and varied: tufa columns, smooth crimpy walls, caves with stalactites, grey balancy walls.

Climbing conditions in Leonidio are ideal for winter climbing, as the concave red cliff above the town acts as a natural shield against bad weather. The best period for climbing in Leonidio is November to April, though some crags higher up in the hills are good for climbing even on hot spring, fall or summer days.

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Approach

Mini Canyon is a sector with very short approach, in the shade almost all day, located in a serene spot near old olive trees and the sea, and with good pocketed limestone and pleasant mid-grade routes. You can park the car on the road that leads to Leonidio on the following point:

• Parking lot Mini Canyon (and Sabaton) 37.170327, 22.898066

Once you park your car, follow the signs to Sabaton Sector and as soon you reach Sabaton sector then continue towards the right on a trail that leads to Mini Canyon.

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Sector Mini Canyon

Mini Canyon is a very pleasant small canyon that provides great sport climbing routes for all type of  climbers.

Highlight route is Kopros (5c) with amazing view towards the Myrteon sea.

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The Routes

Name	Grade	Meters
God save Leonidio	6c+	15
God save Leonidio etx.	7a+	25
Heavy Music	7a+	25
And Cakes by Tonnes	6c+	25
Angels calling	4	10
Malakamoumou	5b	10
Malakamoumou ext.	6a	25
Aghios Thomas	6c+	20
Kubinos	6c+	15
Ta mate sou	6b+	18
Bad Magic	6b+	18
Kopros	5c	20
Stone monkey	7a+	22
Masturbators in the elevator	7b	22
Diablesses rouges	7a	22
Portokalia	5c	15
Portokalia ext.	6a	22
Faklana	5b	15
Faklana ext.	6b+	22
Ride the ridge	6b	20
Maminas	5c	18
Moving target	6b+	18
Best and worst	6b	10
Manoware	6a+	10

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Leonidio besides rock climbing

• Go mountain biking. Want to test your endurance? Bring your mountain bike in the cooler season and challenge yourself to a ride on the curvy and steep mountain road to Kosmas village. Stop there for a great view, and if you get hungry, don’t miss the traditional goat soup.
• Visit historic monasteries, traditional mansions and world-class archaeological sites. The famous monastery of Elona is hidden in the cliffs just a stone’s throw away. The traditional mansions of Leonidio, such as the Tsikaliotis House, showcase local architecture at its best. And numerous world-renowned archaeological sites, such as the Unesco World Heritage sites of Mycenae and Tiryns, are just over an hour away.
• Dive into the blue. The magical underwater world of the Myrtoan Sea awaits, and if it’s your lucky day you may even get to hang out with dolphins. If all you want is a day at the beach, no problem! We promise you can find your own perfect spot at one of many beaches around Leonidio.
• Experience local festivities and tradition. Easter celebrations at Leonidio, during which softly lit hot air balloons are released above the water at dusk, are not to miss. Famous also are the regional festivals (called panigíri) throughout summer, at the height of which Leonidio also celebrates one of its most acclaimed products, the Tsakonian eggplant (melitzána), with Melitzazz, an annual multi-day festival bringing together food and jazz music!

• Climb in Leonidio
• Leonidio Climbapedia
• Leonidio the Crag
• Multi-Pitch Climbing in Leonidio
• Climb Greece – Leonidio

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Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.