Climbing in Petrogerakas Crag – Ermionida – Argolis – Greece

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

Now, it’s already 2022, and there is a new crag developed near Katafyki Gorge. This would be the 8th crag in Ermionida region.

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About Petrogerakas Crag

A new sport climbing crag was developed near Ermioni and specifically near the already well established climbing crag Katafyki.

The crag was developed and equipped in early spring 2022 by Vertical Art Greece with main equipper K. Grafanakis and with a kind contribution of the local climbing community, Climb Ermionida.

The rock consists of grey-brown and red limestone of very good quality but due to the fact the crag is newly developed, the rock on some routes might be a bit sharp. In total there are 8 routes  for all types of climbing, but was mainly developed for climbers taking their first steps on the vertical walls.

Best seasons to visit Petrogerakas Crag is from late Autumn till late Spring.

Grades 5a to 6b+.


In a Nutshell

  • Exposure: South \ South West
  • Best Season: Late Autumn – late Spring
  • Sun: From 13.00 up to sunset
  • Walk in: 35 minutes (steep hike)
  • Water: None
  • Family Friendly: No
  • Pet Friendly: No
  • Camping: Katafyki gorge
  • Gear: 60 m. rope, 14 quickdraws
  • Equipped by: K. Grafanakis

Download for free the complete Petrogerakas Crag Guidebook

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Approach: How to reach Petrogerakas Crag

Approaching Kranidi from the north, you will come across an intersection. Follow the signs to Ermioni and drive along the long straight section until you reach an inconspicuous stone chapel on your left and a small sign towards Katafyki Gorge (oriented towards the opposite direction so it’s easy to miss!). Take a hard left and follow the tight tarmac road for about 3 km. until you come to dirt road with a sign pointing to Katafyki to the west. From Katafyki parking spot, follow the trail that leads to Petrogerakas crag. 

Once on the trail, follow the red signs. 

Attention: the trail is very steep, though the approach hike is not very difficult.

Follow the trail up to the following location: 37.421957, 23.219936

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Approach hike
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Approach Hike
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Approach Hike
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Approach Hike
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Almost at Petrogerakas Crag
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Panoramic view Petrogerakas Crag

The Routes

Name

Grade

Meters

Mud Bath

5a

20

Ylagiali

6a

24

Yalayala

6b+

25

Pollar Star

6b

24

BBQ

6a+

19

Savior

5b

20

Alzheimer

5c

22

Goats’ Path

6a+

30


Climbing Yalayala 6b+

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K. Graganakis on Yalayala 6b+

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Climbing
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Climbing Yalayala 6b+

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Climbing Alzheimer 5c

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Climber on Alzheimer 5c
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Alzheimer 5c

Climbing BBQ

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K. Grafanakis on BBQ 6a+
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Climbing
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Climbing | BBQ | 6a+
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At the Crux
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Climber in action

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About Ermionida

Ermionida  is a municipality in the Argolis regional unit, Peloponnese, Greece. The seat of the municipality is the town Kranidi.

Ermioni is a small fishing town of Ermionida (Argolis) at the east of Peloponnese. The traditional taverns, the cafes, the paved streets, the beautiful houses and the crystal clear beaches around this area are some of the reasons this town is an interesting summer destination of Peloponnese. While travelling around this area you will have the chance to admire the olive and the pine trees and plenty of bays with turquoise water but also plenty of climbing crags.

Other crags in Ermionida region

Trad Climbing in Ermionida region


Download for free the complete Petrogerakas Crag Guidebook

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

6 thoughts on “Climbing in Petrogerakas Crag – Ermionida – Argolis – Greece

  1. Pingback: Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni – Olympus Mountaineering

  2. Nice short approach. That’s ideal. I love the name of sport climbs. Always so creative, and you just know there is a great story behind them all. Savior? Alzheimer??? I can only guess 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Indeed, climbers and equippers, are very creative with naming the routes.

      For both Savior and Alzheimer, it happens to know the story for naming the routes from first hand. And since you have asked here is the story behind it:

      Petrogerakas crag is located about 30-40 minutes of steep hike from the parking spot. The guy that was bolting the routes carried all his (bolting) gear from the parking spot till the crag, but he forgot to get the drill bit (to be precise, he thought he had the drill bit with him). As soon he realised he did not have the drill bit, he had two options:
      A) to stop the work in progress
      or B) to call someone to bring him a drill bit.

      So, the route Alzheimer is dedicated to the guy that forgot the drill bit and the route Savior is dedicated to the guy that brought him the drill bit, and he saved the day.

      Like

  3. Pingback: Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022 – Olympus Mountaineering

  4. Pingback: Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni – Olympus Mountaineering

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