Climbing in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

With this post we invite you to embark on an extraordinary expedition through the captivating Katafyki Ravine in Ermioni, Greece. Within this majestic setting, we will uncover the exhilarating challenges and natural wonders that await you on three remarkable multi-pitch climbing routes: Maia, Taygete, and Alcyone.

Each ascent presents its own distinct characteristics, offering a diverse range of difficulties and rewards. Prepare yourself for an awe-inspiring journey as we delve into the details of these unforgettable routes.

Maia_Multi_Pitch_Katafyki_Ermioni_33 — View of Pleiades crag

Pleiades crag is a magnificent formation in the heavens, named after the seven shining stars that make up the Taurus constellation. These stars, known as the Pleiades sisters, were transformed into celestial bodies by the divine hand of Zeus, according to mythology.

As a climber, Pleiades crag represents a unique challenge and an opportunity for adventure. The crag is said to be a gateway to the heavens, a place where mortals can access the realm of the gods. But getting there is no easy feat.

The path to the Pleiades crag is treacherous and requires a high level of skill and experience. The terrain is rugged, with steep cliffs and sharp rocks.

Yet, those who do make it to the Pleiades crag are rewarded with an experience like no other. The view from the top is breathtaking, with a panorama of the gulf of Hydra.

In addition to its allure and mythical significance, Pleiades crag offers an enticing array of multi-pitch routes for climbers seeking a thrilling vertical adventure. Currently, there are three captivating routes that cater to various skill levels, promising an unforgettable ascent amidst the celestial surroundings.

MultiPitch routes in Pleiades crag as of June 2023

General overview of Maia, Taygete and Alcyone

One of the routes available is called “Maia.” It is a five-pitch journey that tests climbers with its technicality and demands a solid skill set. With a difficulty rating of maximum 5c, it presents an exhilarating challenge while ascending to a height of 178 meters. Each pitch brings its own unique obstacles and rewards, making Maia a captivating choice for those seeking a fulfilling climb.

For more experienced climbers hungry for a greater challenge, “Taygete” awaits. This six-pitch route stands tall at 205 meters and boasts a difficulty rating of 6b+. Taygete demands both physical prowess and mental agility, pushing climbers to their limits as they navigate its intricate features. The rewards of conquering Taygete are not only the stunning views but also a sense of accomplishment that comes with mastering this demanding ascent.

If you prefer a slightly shorter but no less thrilling option, “Alcyone” beckons with its four-pitch journey. This route, with a difficulty rating of 6a, spans 100 meters and promises an adrenaline-filled adventure. Alcyone presents formidable challenges and rewards climbers with an awe-inspiring experience as they ascend to the crag’s lofty heights.

Each of these multi-pitch routes at the Pleiades crag offers a unique blend of physicality, mental focus, and connection with the celestial realm. Whether you choose Maia, Taygete, or Alcyone, embarking on one of these expeditions will leave you with memories etched in both your mind and soul.

So, gear up, harness your determination, and set forth on an extraordinary journey amidst the storied beauty of the Pleiades crag.

Pleiades_Crag_MultiPitch_Main_Topo_Maia_Taygete_Alcyone_Main_s — Pleiades Crag MultiPitch Main Topo from left to right: Maia, Taygete & Alcyone

Approach

Approaching Kranidi from the north, you will come across an intersection. Follow the signs to Ermioni and drive along the long straight section until you reach an inconspicuous stone chapel on your left and a small sign towards Katafyki Gorge (oriented towards the opposite direction

so it’s easy to miss!). Take a hard left and follow the tight tarmac road for about 3 km. until you come to an agricultural dirt road with a sign pointing to Katafyki to the west.

Another 500 m. of well trodden dirt road among olive groves and you are at the crag.

Park the car at the St. Nicholas chapel and follow the trail that goes under the bridge. From that point, you will have a clear view of the ridge and you have to follow the cairn (pile of stones).

From the parking spot till the beginning of the route, you will need about 15 minutes of hike.

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_01 — Beginning of the trail – Move towards left under the bridge

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_02 — Follow the river – under the bridge

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_03 — Follow the cairn signs

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_04 — At this point, turn to the right and move uphill

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_05 — More cairn signs to be found along the path

Maia 5c 178 m. | 5 Pitches

Maia (5c, 178 m) was established and equipped in April 2022 by Vertical Art Greece, and first ascent was claimed by K. Grafanakis and Olympus Mountaineering on May 1st 2022.

Maia (5c, 178 m) follows the characteristic ridge which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

Maia (5c, 178 m) is 5 pitches long and it is fully equipped with bolts along its entire length so that the use of portable protection (nut, cams etc.) is not necessary. Anchors have been fitted to each belay station.

The quality of the rock is good, but there are also some spots that need attention for eventual loose rocks.

Maia_Multi_Pitch_Katafyki_Ermioni_32 — The Route – Maia 5c 178 m.

Read full report about MAIA here:

MAIA – 5 Pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multipitch route

Taygete 6b+ 205 m. | 6 Pitches

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) was established and equipped in September 2022 by Vertical Art Greece, and first ascent was claimed by C. Rigas and Olympus Mountaineering.

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) is located a bit southern (to the right) compared to Maia and starts from a nice dihedral, slightly left from the second obvious ridge of the west face of the Pleiades crag. Pleiades crag, is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

Taygete (6b+, 205 m) is 6 pitches long and it is fully equipped with bolts and along its entire length so that the use of portable protection (nut, cams etc.) is not necessary. Anchors have been fitted to each belay station.

The quality of the rock is good, but there are also some spots that need attention for eventual loose rocks.

Taygete_MultiPitch_Pleiades_Katafyki_Ermioni_Topo — Taygete 6 Pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | The Route

Read full report about TAYGETE here:

Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multipitch route

Alcyone 6a 100 m. | 4 Pitches

Alcyone (6a, 100m) was established and equipped in May 2023 by Vertical Art Greece, with the first ascent claimed on 29/5/2023 by K. Grafanakis and Olympus Mountaineering.

Located slightly to the south (right) in comparison to Maia and Taygete, Alcyone (6a, 100m) begins from a narrow ledge on the right side of the second prominent ridge on the west face of the Pleiades crag. The Pleiades crag itself resides on the western wall within the Katafyki ravine, specifically situated between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

Alcyone (6a, 100m) consists of four pitches and is fully equipped with bolts along its entire length, eliminating the need for portable protection such as nuts or cams. Anchors have been installed at each belay station, except for R4, where climbers should secure themselves to a large tree using slings or a cordellette.

The quality of the rock on Alcyone varies. The first two pitches contain sections with slightly loose rock, but the quality greatly improves during the last two pitches, providing a solid and reliable surface for climbers to enjoy.

Alcyone_Pleiades_Crag_Katafyki_Ermionida_45 — The Route: Alcyone 6a | 4 pitches | 100 m.

Read full report about ALCYONE here:

Alcyone – 4 pitches, 6a 100 m. | Multipitch route

Conclusion

With the exploration of Maia, Taygete, and Alcyone, we have unveiled the extraordinary multi-pitch climbing opportunities that await in the stunning Katafyki Ravine of Ermioni. From the moderate challenges of Maia to the demanding feats of Taygete and the compact intensity of Alcyone, these routes cater to climbers of various skill levels, promising unique experiences and unforgettable memories.

So, harness your determination, sharpen your skills, and venture forth into the captivating realm of Katafyki Ravine, where thrilling ascents and awe-inspiring landscapes converge to create the ultimate climbing adventure.

Trad/Mountaineering climbing around Ermionida region

About Ermionida

Ermionida is a municipality in the Argolis regional unit, Peloponnese, Greece. The seat of the municipality is the town of Kranidi.

Ermioni is a small fishing town in Ermionida (Argolis) on the east of Peloponnese. The traditional taverns, the cafés, the paved streets, the beautiful houses and the crystal clear beaches around this area are some of the reasons which make this town is an interesting summer destination of Peloponnese.

While travelling around the area, you will have the chance to admire olive and pine trees along with plenty of bays with turquoise waters but also plenty of climbing crags. Rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the region of Argolis is all on excellent solid grey limestone.

The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

However all of the climbing areas are only partially developed, which means there is a massive opportunity to establish new routes in the area. The area of Argolis gets over 3,000 hours of sunshine per year and is a popular holiday destination.

This also means that it is possible to rock climb virtually throughout the whole year in the region, even in the hot summer months, as some crags such as Didyma are found on higher elevation – as high as 1,000 m.!

SunCastle_Crag_Climbing_Ermioni_16 — Ermioni

Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.