The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida. 

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges. 

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Ek Tou Anasfalous VI UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

I woke up early on Sunday, feeling excited about the day ahead. I was going trad climbing with a few friends, and I couldn’t wait to get out to the crag and test my skills on the rock face.

After packing all my gear and double-checking my equipment, I hopped into my car and drove out to the crag. As we arrived, I could feel the adrenaline pumping through my veins. I was ready for the challenge.

We took some time to scout out the route and assess the rock quality. We discussed the type of protection we’d need to place as we climbed, and I felt reassured that we were all experienced and knowledgeable about trad climbing techniques.

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Topping up the route

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Climbing in Castle Thermisia (Kastro Thermisias) – Ermionida, Argolis (2023 Update)

If you’re a climbing enthusiast looking for a breathtaking view, Castle Thermisia Crag is the place to be. Located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, this crag offers stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and the sea. The rock formations are also incredibly diverse, making it an ideal spot for climbers of all skill levels.

The crag is located just a short drive from the city of Ermioni. This makes it easy to combine your climbing adventure with some sightseeing and relaxation in the area. In fact, you can even see surrounding areas such as Nafplio, Hydra, Spetses, Epidauros, Poros and Dokos.

There are several climbing routes available at Castle Thermisia Crag, ranging in difficulty from 5a to 8c+/9a. The majority of the routes are sport climbing routes, with well-maintained bolts and anchors for safety.

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C. Vrochidis projecting Careless Corsair (project)
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Mount Artemisio – Winter Mountaineering ascent via the North-West Couloir

As I trudged up the snow-covered slopes of Mount Artemisio, I felt a surge of excitement and anticipation coursing through my veins. It had been a year since I last set foot on mountain covered with snow, and the thrill of the winter mountaineering activities that awaited me was almost too much to bear. 

As I gazed out over the rugged terrain, with the crisp winter air stinging my cheeks and the snow crunching beneath my boots, I knew that I was exactly where I belonged – among the mountains.

In this post, I will recount my recent winter mountaineering ascent via the North West couloir of Mount Artemisio in Argolis, Greece. 

Join me on this exhilarating journey as I navigate the treacherous slopes and take in the breathtaking beauty of this majestic mountain.

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Enjoying the view and getting ready for the challenge

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

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Climbing up
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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2025) is published
You can find the updated version here.

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.

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Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook Edition 2022
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Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

Summer time in Greece, especially in the southern regions of the country can be rather hot. Therefore  climbing near the seaside can be a very nice experience and at the same time bearable with the high temperatures. 

In the past year, we have climbed a lot in the Ermionida region and we established several Trad Climbing routes, especially nearby Dardiza Bay.

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Magnificent view from R1
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Dirty Friday IV+ UIAA 95 m. | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini

It has been almost 2 years since my last visit in the area of Asini and specifically to the Profitis Elias rock.

The Profitis Elias rock stands upwards in the beautiful scenery of Asini is called Profitis Elias. The little chapel that is build on top is dedicated to Prophet Elias, and thus the name of the hill.

The view at the top is panorama (360º) and you can get a pretty good idea of the surrounding area and its morphology. It is on the way to the coast of Tolo, if you are coming from Nafplio. There is a road that takes you from the village of Ag. Paraskevi to the lower parts of the hill. From there it is a 15-20 minutes walk uphill, following the path designated by white crosses, that will take you to the top.

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View of Profitis Elias Rock
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Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of easier and well protected multi-pitch routes arose and in April 2022, a new route was established and bolted by Vertical Art Greece.

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Enjoying the first meters of the entire route
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Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

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Enjoying the view from the top of the rock

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