The limestone formations at Castle Thermisia Crag are truly stunning, with interesting pockets, crimps, and edges to navigate. The climbs are varied, with some featuring vertical sections, while others are overhanging. This makes it an ideal spot for climbers looking to improve their skills or try out new techniques.

Since the previous post about Castle Thermisia, there have been many updates. Three new sectors have been developed with many new routes at each sector, including the most difficult routes in the entire Peloponnese region.

Castle Thermisia’s Sectors

Castle Thermisia crag was initially discovered and firstly bolted by english climber Jim Titt. At the beginning there was just one sector, the Venetian Wall with about 11 routes. In the recent years, the local climbing community, Climb Ermionida, further developed the crag, by adding another three (3) sectors and plenty of new routes.

As of 2023, there are the following 4 sectors:

• Leon’s Wall – 14 Routes
• Orias’ Wall – 4 Routes
• Venetian Wall – 11 Routes
• Byzantine Wall – 7 Routes

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Approach to the Castle of Thermisia

Driving time to the castle car park is just under 20 minutes from Ermioni. Thermisia village itself is small and has few amenities, however, there are at least three good tavernas within the village, one of which is located by the sea front.  It is mainly an agricultural area, plentiful in orchards with citrus fruits, apricots and olive trees.

Driving from Ermioni towards Poros on the coast road the next village is Thermissia. The cliff lies above you. Take a turning left as you approach the village, just before a sign on the right to Hydras Wave Camping, Follow the tarred road to its end at the castle.

Once you reach the parking lot there are some red and yellow arrows that one has to follow. These red arrows lead to the entrance of the castle and therefore for the approach one has to pay attention to see the obvious rock pile that leads to the climbing crag.

Despite the new road, signpost (if you can find it) and the floodlighting the authorities have not seen fit to provide any access paths up to the castle so to gain the upper tier is a bit of an adventure and to gain the top and the castle itself requires some climbing ability. However, a spectacular site and worth the trip.

Leon’s Wall Sector (14 routes | 5b – 8c+/9a) – Castle Thermisia Crag

Leon’s Wall was developed by the initiative of Climb Ermionida and was mainly bolted by C.Tsoutsias and C. Vrochidis. On a later stage, more routes have been added. This is perhaps the nicest, most spectacular and most difficult sector, not only of this crag but perhaps of the entire Peloponnese region.

Orias’ Wall Sector (4 routes | 5c – 6c) – Castle Thermisia Crag

Orias’ Wall is a small sector with 4 routes ranging from 5c up to 6c and is a great addition to the nearby sector, Venetian Wall.

Venetian Wall Sector (11 routes | 5c-7a)  – Castle Thermisia Crag

An imposing cliff overlooking the coast and the village of Thermisia. Close inspection reveals an even more daunting prospect than a first view would suggest. Big, red, bulging and holdless seems to sum it up.

This is actually a great place to visit with a super view over the coast, a ruined castle to explore and a real classic climb, New Order which takes you up an unfeasibly overhanging wall at only 6a. The cliff is floodlit during the summer months and this would give a superb photo opportunity!

In my opinion the grades are somewhat downgraded, and the routes are often hard to start! At this point, I also have to pay respect to J. Titt that took care of almost all routes on this climbing crag.

An imposing cliff overlooking the coast and the village of Thermisia. Close inspection reveals an even more daunting prospect than a first view would suggest. Big, red, bulging and holdless seems to sum it up.

This is actually a great place to visit with a super view over the coast, a ruined castle to explore and a real classic climb, New Order which takes you up an unfeasibly overhanging wall at only 6a. The cliff is floodlit during the summer months and this would give a superb photo opportunity!

In my opinion the grades are somewhat downgraded, and the routes are often hard to start! At this point, I also have to pay respect to J. Titt that took care of almost all routes on this sector.

Shadow Corner 6a

The Leading Edge

Byzantine Wall Sector (7 routes | 5c+ – 7c+)  – Castle Thermisia Crag

About Thermisia Village

Thermisia is a small village by the sea that lies East of Ermioni.  The village acquired its name from the temple of Demeter, who was the goddess of Thermasia (Heat: from the heat of the hot water springs).  Demeter used to be worshipped in the area and a temple was built to her close to the sea, a lagoon has been formed on that very spot.  In the early Medieval period some fine saltpans were found here, which remained profitable until the 19th century.  Today this lagoon area is an important stopping place for rare migrating birds.  2 kms before the entrance to the village, stands the imposing Lizzard rock which rises to 350 metres, on top of which the Medieval Frankish Castle of Thermisia has been built.

See more climbing crags in Argolis region:

• Climbing in Nafplio
• Climbing in Katafyki Gorge
• Climbing in the Pillars of the Wind
• Climbing in Franchthi Caves
• Climbing in Dardiza
• Climbing in Didima

Further Information

This post contains many information regarding the various crags and sectors in the Ermionida region. Should you wish to know more and your have a specific question, we would be pleased to try to help you out.

You can contact us, via the contact page.

In case you would like to do enjoy some hiking in between climbing, feel free to check out the following posts:

• Hiking activities in Ermionida

Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

Featured image by Andreas Markou