Mount Artemisio – Winter Mountaineering ascent via the North-West Couloir

As I trudged up the snow-covered slopes of Mount Artemisio, I felt a surge of excitement and anticipation coursing through my veins. It had been a year since I last set foot on mountain covered with snow, and the thrill of the winter mountaineering activities that awaited me was almost too much to bear. 

As I gazed out over the rugged terrain, with the crisp winter air stinging my cheeks and the snow crunching beneath my boots, I knew that I was exactly where I belonged – among the mountains.

In this post, I will recount my recent winter mountaineering ascent via the North West couloir of Mount Artemisio in Argolis, Greece. 

Join me on this exhilarating journey as I navigate the treacherous slopes and take in the breathtaking beauty of this majestic mountain.

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Enjoying the view and getting ready for the challenge

Winter mountaineering is an exhilarating experience that requires strength, endurance, and skill. One of the most challenging and rewarding winter mountaineering routes is the North West couloir of Mount Artemisio in Argolis, Greece. This impressive mountain peak, located in the Peloponnese region, offers a unique winter ascent that will test the limits of any climber.

The North West couloir of Mount Artemisio is a steep and narrow gully that cuts through the mountain’s rugged terrain. The climb involves navigating through loose rocks, ice, and snow, making it a demanding and technical ascent. The route requires advanced mountaineering skills, including the use of crampons, ice axes, and ropes to negotiate the icy terrain safely.

The winter ascent of Mount Artemisio begins at the base of the mountain, where climbers must hike through dense forests and rocky terrain to reach the start of the couloir. The approach can be challenging, especially in snowy and icy conditions, but it offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

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Starting point of the approach hike
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Hiking on the first snow patches
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Hiking up
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Beautiful view towards Mount Kyllini (Ziria Mountain)

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First peak of the day
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Mountain peak sign

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First view of the Artemisio mountain peak
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Enjoying the view and getting ready for the challenge

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Cairns

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Traversing from North-East towards the base of the North-West Couloir

Artemisio mountain, an imposing peak rising to 1,771 meters, stands at the border between the rugged regions of Arcadia and Argolis. It is a proud member of the mountain range that links the Argolic Gulf with the Corinthian, and thus shares its northern flank with the formidable Lyrkeio mountain, while to the south, it borders with the lofty Ktenia mountain. On its western reaches, the mountain meets the plateau of Mantineia, lending it an air of unbridled grandeur.

As legend has it, Artemisio mountain was once home to a sacred shrine dedicated to the huntress goddess, Artemis, who watched over the untamed wilderness and its wild creatures. The hallowed grove of Itamoi, where the toxic European Yew tree was said to grow, once stood sentinel on the peak. This potent tree, according to the myths, was used by the goddess to tip her arrows with deadly venom. Alas, the grove, much like many of the fir trees that once flourished on the mountain, has long since vanished, leaving only traces of its grandeur in the mists of time.

One of the few springs that brave climbers can use to quench their thirst, the Inachos river, has its source on the mighty Artemisio mountain. The river’s winding course runs all the way down to the Argolic Gulf, traversing the rugged landscape of the mountain with its unrivaled beauty and grandeur.

Even to this day, Artemisio mountain remains a beacon of raw, natural beauty, a mountain of great challenges and rewards, where adventurers can put their mettle to the test and experience the thrills and spills of mountaineering in all its glory.

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start of the traverse from the North-East towards the North-West in order to reach the base of the couloir
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The entire traverse till we reach the couloir

Mount Artemisio North-West Couloir

Once at the base of the North West couloir, climbers must gear up and begin the technical ascent. The route involves steep sections of ice and snow, and climbers must carefully navigate their way up the narrow gully. The climb requires a significant amount of focus and concentration as well as physical strength, endurance, and mental toughness.

As climbers ascend the couloir, they are rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. The summit of Mount Artemisio offers panoramic views of the Argolic Gulf and the nearby mountains, making the ascent a truly unforgettable experience.

Winter mountaineering in Greece is not without its risks, and climbers must be prepared for sudden changes in weather and conditions. The North West couloir of Mount Artemisio is a challenging and technical ascent that requires advanced mountaineering skills and experience. Climbers must also ensure they have the appropriate gear and equipment, including warm clothing, crampons, ice axes, and ropes.

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Time for the ice tools – Petzl Quark
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Ready to “attack”

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Climbing up the first part of the couloir – About 30° of steepness

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Climbing up
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a M2 pass
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right at the entrance of the couloir which leads directly at the peak

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Climbing up

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View from the mid section of the couloir towards the base
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Stunning views
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Climbing up the steepest part – About 55° – 60° of steepness
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When the ice axe is a useful tool
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Climbing up
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What a lovely sun

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Searching for ice axe placement
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We got it! Time for the axe to touch the rock
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Checking out the last part of the couloir
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Last 50 meters of the couloir – just before the exit to the peak

Reaching the peak of Mount Artemisio

As I approached the summit of Mount Artemisio and despite the physical exertion, I could feel a growing sense of excitement and anticipation building within me. The snow-covered slopes had given way to a rocky outcropping, and I knew that the peak was just within reach.

As I scrambled up the final few meters, my eyes locked onto the stunning panorama that awaited me. To the north, the Lyrkeio mountain loomed large and foreboding, while to the south, the Ktenias mountain beckoned with its majestic beauty. The plateau of Mantineia stretched out before me, a vast and awe-inspiring expanse of untamed wilderness. And in every direction, the snow-capped peaks of the surrounding mountains seemed to reach up to touch the heavens.

For a moment, I simply stood there, transfixed by the raw and untamed beauty of the landscape around me. It was as if time had slowed down, and all the cares and worries of the world melted away. In that moment, all that mattered was the mountain, and the sense of achievement that came with reaching its summit.

As I savored the moment, I couldn’t help but think about all the challenges I had faced on the way up. But now, as I stood at the top of the mountain, I felt a sense of deep satisfaction and fulfillment. The climb had been worth it, and the view from the top was a reward beyond measure.

And so, as I gazed out over the rugged terrain, I knew that this moment would stay with me for the rest of my life. The peak of Mount Artemisio was a testament to the power and beauty of the mountains, and a reminder of the indomitable spirit that lies within us all.

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Almost at the top
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Artemisio Peak 1.771 m.
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View towards Ktenias and far behind Mt. Taygetos
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view towards Mt. Ktenias
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The Majesty of Mt. Taygetos

Return

As I descended Mount Artemisio, my heart was still racing with the adrenaline and exhilaration of the climb. The frigid winds that had battered me on the ascent were now replaced by the warmth of the sun on my skin, and the snow that had seemed so daunting just hours before was now melting beneath my feet.

As I made my way back to the car, I couldn’t help but reflect on the many lessons I had learned during my ascent. The mountains are not just a place of physical challenge, but also of deep introspection and personal growth. 

They test our limits, push us to our boundaries, and reveal to us both our strengths and weaknesses. For me, this climb had been a reminder of the power of nature, the importance of preparation and perseverance, and the profound beauty that can be found in the most unexpected places.

And so, with a heart full of gratitude and a mind buzzing with memories, I bid farewell to Mount Artemisio, knowing that I would one day return to its awe-inspiring slopes. Until then, I carry with me the lessons and experiences of this journey, and the unshakable sense of awe and wonder that comes from standing at the summit of a mountain.

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Time to return

Gear & Equipment

For this trip, I was carrying the following main gear:


Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

5 thoughts on “Mount Artemisio – Winter Mountaineering ascent via the North-West Couloir

    1. Thank you so much Diana!

      It was definitely an unforgettable experience reaching the summit. I’m so grateful for the opportunity to embark on such a fun adventure and push myself to new limits.

      The view from the top was absolutely breathtaking. Thanks again for your kind words and encouragement!

      Liked by 2 people

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