Nafplio is located in a protected bay of the Argolic Gulf, just 1.5 hours by car from Athens. The crags of Nafplio are in fantastic seaside locations; for the most part, the cliffs are solid limestone featuring slightly overhanging red, yellow, and white rock. Nafplio itself is very lively, and its Old Town is a popular weekend destination teeming with quayside cafés, restaurants and hotels. Thanks to Nafplio’s location and layout, you can easily navigate it on foot, and go climbing, jogging or swimming within minutes. Lastly, Nafplio has a very mild climate, which makes it one of the best venues in Greece for winter climbing.
Anatoli (a-na-to-LEE) was an old, abandoned crag in Nafplio overlooking Karathona beach, with just two routes bolted there in the early ‘90s. The grey slabs of Anatoli are close to the road, they are very compact, and they get afternoon shade, so developing it into a complete sport crag was on our to-do list for a while. We were finally able to do it in early December. Anatoli is now a nice, climber-friendly sport crag, with 25 routes up to 25m high and grades from 4a to 6b+. For the majority of sport climbers, Anatoli meets two popular requirements: lots of easier routes and year-round climbing conditions. Anatoli is at the opposite end of the beach from another Nafplio crag, Karathona, so the two can be combined in one day. In warmer months, climb at Karathona in the morning, take a mid-afternoon beach break, and end the day climbing at Anatoli.
The making of the crag
Sector Anatoli was bolted by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Remy. It went like this: In late November 2014, our friends Claude and Christine Remy visited us in Athens for a few days of “shopping and culture”. This was an overly ambitious plan for the men, however, who grew fidgety and restless. Two museum-filled days later, they ditched their wives for their Hiltis and took off to Nafplio. Claude and Aris subsequently spent two very full days cleaning Anatoli of loose rock and stubborn vegetation and drilling many of the routes. After Claude left, Aris spent another five or six days over the next two weeks to complete the bolting of Anatoli, with the invaluable help of Kostas Tsoukleidis, Nadine Strobl, Christos Rigas and Katie Roussou.
Climbing: Technical and enjoyable on vertical or off-vertical, fully-pocketed, very compact grey and red limestone. Good footwork is a plus. On the left are some easy training routes for new climbers. The bolting on all routes is very good and encouraging, if we do say so ourselves.
Conditions: Located at the western edge of Karathona Beach, Anatoli gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. It is perfect for year-round climbing: all-day climbing in the winter and afternoon climbing in the summer.
Shade: After 14:00 in spring/summer; after 16:00 in winter. There is sun in the morning and early afternoon.
Approach: As you come into town from Leoforos Argous, keep slightly to the right and onto Kiprou St. As soon as you see the hill of Palamidi ahead of you, turn left onto 25 Martiou St following the sign to “Palamidi”. At the top of the uphill road, on the outskirts, do not turn right towards “Palamidi” but continue straight ahead, towards Karathona Beach. Drive downhill for about 1km and turn at the first road you meet on the right. Park 100m before the end of the road. The cliff is up to your right. The path is very good and marked in blue. Walking time: Less than 1 min.
ANATOLI ROUTES (click here for printable version)
1 Alalum 2* 3c 8m A short training route.
2 Laertes 2* 3c 8m Good for learning to lead.
3 Pelops 2* 4a 12m Another line good for beginners.
4 Lais 2* 4c 12m Big holds all the way.
5 Fricasee 3* 5b 15m A bulge with good jugs.
6 Photosynthesis 2* 5c 18m One hard move to reach the ‘thank god’ hold!
7 Apple Strudel 2* 5c 18m A weaving enjoyable line.
8 Christina 3* 5b 25m A long, delicate climb.
9 Klod 3* 5b+ 25m A long wall climb full of good holds.
10 Alkmene 2* 5c 25m The corner and wall.
11 Nadine 3* 6b 20m A steep, devious start leads to more technical climbing.
12 KTR ♪ 6a+ 20m An awesome sequence on the big holes. Same lower-off as ‘Nadine’.
13 Aristotelis ♪ 6a+ 20m A thin, balancy crux, then amazing pockets.
14 Antonis 3* 6a+ 20m Off-balance holes, corner, and a not-so-obvious final wall.
15 Fondue 3* 6a+ 25m A fingery wall and exposed flake.
16 Amphitryon 2* 5c+ 25m An easy ramp and fingery headwall.
17 Anapli 3* 6b+ 15m A bouldery start leads to continuous technical moves.
18 Goji Power 2* 6b 20m Crux at the short ramp.
19 Smiling Tsouk ♪ 6a+ 22m A steep start on big jugs; then, challenging finale on a red wall.
20 Da Bosco 3* 6a 22m A great corner full of hidden holds.
21 Grand Sarai 2* 6a 22m Technical wall climbing.
22 Kapodistrias 2* 6a+ 22m Again, technical climbing on small holds.
23 Elvis 2* 6a+ 22m There are good pockets where you need them!
24 Spicy Chicken 2* 6b+ 22m A defined technical crux.
25 Risotto 2* 5a 20m An easy, mountain-style climb. Bridging helps.
see more info on this website.
Sector Neraki Bay
Neraki bay is a beautiful bay nearby Nafplio city and is a great sport climbing sector. Neraki bay is mainly maintained by Indiou team and other local climbers.
Neraki bay is the ideal place to be in the winter or cold days. This is the only place you feel beeing in the summer the whole year when the sun is shining. Neraki bay with the small beach right underneath the sector is ideal to take a swim after climbing or you need a cooling on hot days. Families enjoy Neraki bay very much because of the easy acces the beach and the well protected routes on red rock
Access: The acces is very easy! You park at the arvanitia parking and you turn left and follow the dirt road allong the coast until you reach the sector. Locals use it for runing, walking or cycling. The way is almost flat.
|Topo available||Topo available|
|Topo available||Mr. Snape||6b|
|Arouris (Pontiki ext)||7c||Orangutan||6b|
|Topo available||Topo available|
|Tarzan||7c||Super Laura (Laura ext.)||6b|
|Super Kolokotronis (Kolokotronis ext.)||7b+||Topo available|
|Ponas ore?||7a+||Dirty dog||6a|
|Mr. Snape extension||6c||Tzoutzouka||5|
Kondyli is beautiful crag at the far end of a pebbled beach at the end of a lagoon,
The crag is small but has some good potential to open more routes. There is also a wet food sector on the right with six routes in the 4th – 5 th grades and starts from the water. These routes are not recommendet because of the rusty bolts! Be aware.
The main beach is full of live in the summer but quiet where the crag is. In the other months it is a remote beach. It is the best place to be if you want to relax on the beach, doing some climbing and going for swimming.
Access: You park at the left side of the beach and you follow the beach towards the church, you can see at the far end of the lagoon. Be aware in summer there are mosquitos which wants to have their party at the early evening hours
|Stone Rider||7a||Beach Pillar||6a|
|Powerful Stuff||6c+||The Goats Gonads||5+|
|Topo available||Suzie Q||5|
|Beach Pillar||6b||Nan Madol||4+|
For more info, feel free to visit the following websites:
Learn more about climbing in Leonidio here:
17 thoughts on “Climbing in Nafplio”
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