Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2023

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2025) is published
You can find the updated version here.

In the early 2000s, a climbing revolution took place in Ermionida, East Peloponnese, when the esteemed British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek, dedicated a significant amount of time, resources, and effort to equip over 200 routes on the exceptional limestone rocks in the area using stainless steel bolts. The climbing community remains grateful for their contributions towards the development of sport climbing in the region.

Fast forward to 2021, Climb Ermionida (the local climbing community) with the invaluable aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and the Tripolis Mountaineering Club, undertook essential maintenance works on various crags and replaced several anchors with high-quality, certified materials.

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Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook edition 2023
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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Nafplio – Karathona & Asini (Greece)

Nafplio is a charming coastal town located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, surrounded by the Argolic gulg and stunning cliffs that offer a variety of rock climbing opportunities. Whether you’re an experienced climber or a beginner, Nafplio has something for everyone.

One of the most popular climbing areas in Nafplio is the Palamidi fortress, a massive Venetian castle that overlooks the town. The fortress is known for its challenging routes, that range from easy to difficult. The limestone cliffs offer a mix of technical face climbing and steep overhangs, and the views from the top are absolutely breathtaking.

Another great climbing spot in Nafplio is at Karathona beach, located just outside the town. This area features cliffs that offer a mix of sport and trad climbing. The routes here are generally shorter than those at Palamidi, but they offer a more diverse range of climbing styles, including slab, face, and crack climbing.

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The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida. 

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges. 

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Ek Tou Anasfalous VI UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

I woke up early on Sunday, feeling excited about the day ahead. I was going trad climbing with a few friends, and I couldn’t wait to get out to the crag and test my skills on the rock face.

After packing all my gear and double-checking my equipment, I hopped into my car and drove out to the crag. As we arrived, I could feel the adrenaline pumping through my veins. I was ready for the challenge.

We took some time to scout out the route and assess the rock quality. We discussed the type of protection we’d need to place as we climbed, and I felt reassured that we were all experienced and knowledgeable about trad climbing techniques.

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Topping up the route

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Taygete – 6 pitches, 6b+ 205 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

Autumn in Greece is a lovely season and especially for outdoor activities such as rock climbing. Recently, I got again the chance to go to explore a newly established route in the area of Ermionida and specifically by Katafyki Ravine. On May 2022, I had the opportunity to climb a beautiful multi-pitch route, MAIA which is located on the west wall in the ravine of Katafyki, and specifically, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of more multi-pitch routes arose and after MAIA one more new route was established and bolted in a crag named “Pleiades“. The name of this new route is Taygete.

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Climbing up
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Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis (Greece) Guidebook Edition 2022

NOTICE: A new Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook (edition 2025) is published
You can find the updated version here.

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in Ermionida, East Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek went and equipped more than 200 routes on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. They spent a lot of their time, money and effort for the development of sport climbing in the area and we are thankful for it.

In 2021, the local climbing community, with the aid and support of the Municipality of Ermionida and Tripolis Mountaineering Club, carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material.

In 2022, a new crag (the 8th in the region), Petrogerakas crag was developed near Katafyki Gorge. In addition, three new sectors were bolted in Castle Thermisia (Orias’ Wall, Leon’s Wall and Byzantine Wall) and several more routes in the crags of Ermionida.

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Climbing in Ermionida Guidebook Edition 2022
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Dardiza Bayby Shitter V- UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

Summer time in Greece, especially in the southern regions of the country can be rather hot. Therefore  climbing near the seaside can be a very nice experience and at the same time bearable with the high temperatures. 

In the past year, we have climbed a lot in the Ermionida region and we established several Trad Climbing routes, especially nearby Dardiza Bay.

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Magnificent view from R1
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Fantastic 4 V+ UIAA 200 m. – Trad Climbing in Kantili – Mt. Pateras – Attica

It has been almost two years ago since my last visit in the area of Mt. Pateras and specifically in Kantili location. During my previous visit, I had climbed the Horned Owl ridge but while climbing that ridge it struck my attention a rock formation which is located in the opposite from the main peak of Kantili. 

After some research, I had noticed that there were a couple of routes and together with a climbing buddy, we decided to pay a visit to the area and give a try to a route named Fantastic 4.

Pateras is a mountain of West Attica, Greece, with an elevation of 1,131 meters. Its highest peak is named Leontari. It is situated between the plain of Eleusis and the plain of Megara, and stretches between the Gulf of Corinth at Aigosthena and the Saronic Gulf near Eleusis.

It is separated from its northern neighbour Cithaeron by the plain of Vilia. The mountain is covered with woods with Aleppo pine and Mediterranean maquis. In the tops of the mountain, that belong to a CORINE biotope, there are firs, of species Abies cephalonica.

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First view of the rock and the route
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Maia – 5 pitches, 5c 178 m. | Multi Pitch Climb in Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

The rock climbing around Ermionida and generally the Argolis region is all on excellent solid grey limestone. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport climbing routes, though there are some trad climbing routes as well.

In Katafyki ravine there are more than 70 sport climbing routes and a handful of multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes were established around 2000-2001 from Jim Titt.

Recently and with the active involvement of the local climbing community, the need of easier and well protected multi-pitch routes arose and in April 2022, a new route was established and bolted by Vertical Art Greece.

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Enjoying the first meters of the entire route
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Dardiza Bayby 5 IV+ UIAA 20 m. | Trad Climbing in Dardiza Bay – Ermioni

While we enjoy some really nice weather in Greece, we keep on exploring new climbing areas and of course some new trad climbing routes. The previous days, we visited the area of Ermioni, and specifically Dardiza bay. On this beautiful bay, with stunning view towards the gulf of Hydra, we spotted a nice rock and we climbed a new route, Dardiza Bayby 3.

While we were already in the area, and having successfully climbed Dardiza Bayby 3, we decided to return and to climb some new routes that we could identify on the rock. The overall climb is easy, but great from some training on trad climbing techniques, anchors and of course at the same time with some splendid views and lovely weather.

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Enjoying the view from the top of the rock

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