Fantastic 4 V+ UIAA 200 m. – Trad Climbing in Kantili – Mt. Pateras – Attica

It has been almost two years ago since my last visit in the area of Mt. Pateras and specifically in Kantili location. During my previous visit, I had climbed the Horned Owl ridge but while climbing that ridge it struck my attention a rock formation which is located in the opposite from the main peak of Kantili. 

After some research, I had noticed that there were a couple of routes and together with a climbing buddy, we decided to pay a visit to the area and give a try to a route named Fantastic 4.

Pateras is a mountain of West Attica, Greece, with an elevation of 1,131 meters. Its highest peak is named Leontari. It is situated between the plain of Eleusis and the plain of Megara, and stretches between the Gulf of Corinth at Aigosthena and the Saronic Gulf near Eleusis.

It is separated from its northern neighbour Cithaeron by the plain of Vilia. The mountain is covered with woods with Aleppo pine and Mediterranean maquis. In the tops of the mountain, that belong to a CORINE biotope, there are firs, of species Abies cephalonica.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160745_989
First view of the rock and the route

Fantastic 4 V+ UIAA 200 m. | Trad Climbing in Kantili

Fantastic 4 (V+ UIAA, 200 m.) first ascent was claimed on 8/10/2017 from G. Apostolou, D. Sfanto, M. Sourlatzi and E. Aggelopoulo. 

The route is located on the rock formation opposite the main climbing are of Kantili and has north exposure. The route can be described as an “adventure hybrid route” (it’s mostly trad, but there are some bolts too) and one should be experienced with basic route finding. The route is not particularly difficult and can be well protected with different kind of gear. The rock is limestone and its quality is medium and varies from good enough to loose on some points.

The route is 200 meters long, divided in 6 pitches and with a maximum difficulty of V+ UIAA.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_Topo
Fantastic 4 – The Topo
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_Route
Fantastic 4 – The Route

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_Cover
Download FREE Guidebook
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_Internal
Download FREE Guidebook

Approach

From Athens one needs to drive towards Eleusis and from there should follow the road to Kantili. You can park your car in this location: 38.058263, 23.411412

Total distance from Athens: 48 km

For the access you need about 20 minutes of uphill hike through low vegetation and while approaching the two characteristic pillars of the rock formation, “Fantastic 4” is on the left pillar. The route starts straight up from the ledge and there is rock cairn at the base of the route.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_155658_922
uphill hike
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_155749_418
getting closer to the beginning of the route
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_155834_688
A closer look of the first pitch

Route description

R0 – R1 | V+ UIAA – 45 m.

The route starts with the first pitch of 45 m. from the base of the pillar. We start to scramble straight up in easy terrain of III UIAA up to the point we have a cave on our left. At that point there we start the actual climb on a slab of a IV UIAA. Just before the cave there is a bolt placed on the left wall. As soon we overcome the cave the inclination starts to become steeper and we have to climb again on a slab of about V UIAA. We continue to climb up to the point we reach a small ledge, just bellow a dihedral. This dihedral is the crux of the first pitch and actually of the entire route. At the mid section of the dihedral, there is another bolt that can be handy. As soon we climb on top of the dihedral and behind a tree we will see two bolts and there is where we can establish our first belay. We belay with a double size sling (120 cm) and the location for belay is comfortable.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_155810_672
Pitch 1 V+ UIAA 45 m.
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_01
First meters of Pitch 1
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_02
Checking for loose boulders
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_03
At the Crux of Pitch 1 (and of the entire route)
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_155906_185
R01 – Comfortable belay position
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160001_720
Belay and a loot toward Kantili

R1-R2 | III UIAA 30 m.

The second pitch of 30 m. starts with an easy climb on a slab and we follow the direction of and old wild olive tree where we pass it from the left. Once we reach the top of that section, we move to the left where we will be uphill walking until we see the second belay. 

We belay with a single size sling (60 cm) and the location for belay is comfortable.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160023_429

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160100_829
Pitch 02 (easy)
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160132_718
at R2 – looking the beginning of Pitch 3

R2-R3 | V UIAA 40 m.

For the third pitch we start to climb straight up from the belay on a slab of IV UIAA. After only two moves we reach a small ledge and on that point we have to make sure to place some good protection. We continue to climb straight up on a slightly exposed slab of IV UIAA where there is also one bolt placed.

As soon we pass the bolt and by turning to the right we enter and climb a rather steep dihedral of maximum difficulty V UIAA. This dihedral might be a bit exposed, but there are enough holds.

As soon we climb up the dihedral, we turn left where we have to scramble on top of a small boulder of maximum III UIAA and we reach the belay.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_04
Pitch 03
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_05
at the Crux of Pitch 3
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_p_06
having passed the crux of Pitch 3
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160154_499
View from R3 – second climber is climbing up carefully
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160258_675
Almost at R03
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160215_111
All belay locations are equipped with bolts

R3-R4 | 20 m.

The fourth pitch is the easiest of all as there is no actual climbing, but rather a short uphill hike of about 20 meters. Though, one should be extra careful because there are loose rocks.


R4-R5 | IV+ UIAA 45 m.

The fifth pitch starts with some scrambling of III UIAA and continues to move straight up with some slabs of IV and IV+ UIAA until we see the first of the two drilled bolts. As soon we see the bolt, we traverse to the right and within 4-5 meters there is a second bold placed. We continue and we climb a ramp. As soon the ramp ends, we turn to the left and we see the belay. 

On that point the view is really unique!

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160400_567
Pitch 5
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160426_709
R05

R5-R6 | III UIAA 20 m.

For the 6th and last pitch we start to climb to the right side from the belay. We have to climb a up a small boulder and up to the top there is an easy scramble of III UIAA (or perhaps IV UIAA).

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160503_578
At the top
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_143707_722
View from R6 – Climber untying the rope
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160527_176
Beautiful view from the top

Return

From the top of the rock, we turn right and we downhill towards south. Most of the downhill is steep and there is not a clear trail so make sure to be extra careful. From the top of the rock up to the parking spot we need about 30-45 minutes.

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160547_582
Return – Downhill hike
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160610_032
A cairn is placed in order to sign the path of the return

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160629_437

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160647_628
Lovely rock formation
Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_160726_728
Downhill hike

Recommended Gear

Dardiza_Bayby4_Trad_Climbing_Dardiza_Ermioni_213937_465
Trad climbing gear

For this trad climb, I used the following gear:


Details of the Climb

  • Location: Mt. Patera – Kantili
  • Starting Point: Kantili
  • Ending Point: Kantili
  • Trail Signs: No
  • Difficulty: Medium
  • When to Climb: Late Autumn – Early Summer
  • Water Features: None

Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Fantastic_4_Kantili_Trad_Climbing_S
Download FREE Guidebook

Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s