Electra VI UIAA 4 Pitches – 145 m. | Trad Multi Pitch Climbing in Pleiades Crag – Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni

The Pleiades crag is a magnificent formation in the heavens, named after the seven shining stars that make up the Taurus constellation. These stars, known as the Pleiades sisters, were transformed into celestial bodies by the divine hand of Zeus, according to mythology.

From a climber’s perspective, the Pleiades crag represents a unique challenge and an opportunity for adventure. The crag is said to be a gateway to the heavens, a place where mortals can access the realm of the gods. But getting there is no easy feat.

The path to the Pleiades crag is treacherous and requires a high level of skill and experience. The terrain is rugged, with steep cliffs and sharp rocks.

We took some time to scout out the route and assess the rock quality. We discussed the type of protection we’d need to place as we climbed, and I felt reassured that we were all experienced and knowledgeable about trad climbing techniques.

Electra Trad Climbing Multipitch Pleiades Crag Katafyki Ermioni — Electra VI UIAA, 4 pitches, 145m. | Trad Climbing in Pleiades Crag (Katafyki) – Ermioni

Electra VI UIAA – 4 Pitches, 145 m. – | Trad Climbing in Pleiades Crag, Katafyki – Ermioni

Established in a single-push ascent in April 2025 by K. Grafanakis and D. Economou, Electra (VI UIAA, 145 m) is a newly bolted trad route that brings a fresh and accessible challenge to the Katafyki Gorge and Peiades crag. The first ascent was completed by the route setters on the same day of its equipping.

Location:
Electra is located at the Pleiades Crag on the western wall of the Katafyki Gorge, between the Katafyki Main Crag and the Petrogerakas Crag. The route starts just left of the prominent dihedral formed between the Ridge of Maia and the slab system of the Peiades crag, placing it slightly to the northwest within the sector.

Route Description:
Electra unfolds over four pitches, offering a pleasant mix of traditional climbing with fixed protection where it counts. The route is equipped with bolted belay stations and sparse bolts at the crux sections of each pitch, making it an excellent introduction for climbers looking to transition into multi-pitch trad routes.

Grade: VI (UIAA)
Length: 145 metres
Style: Traditional climbing with selective bolting
Protection: Bolted anchors; a standard set of cams and nuts recommended for leader-placed protection

Rock Quality & Recommendations:
The first three pitches offer solid limestone with good friction and dependable placements, providing an enjoyable and secure climbing experience. Caution is advised on the final pitch, where the rock becomes more fragmented, with several loose flakes present along the true line of the route. Climbers should take care with both placements and holds in this section.

Ideal For:
Electra is particularly suited for climbers beginning their journey into multi-pitch trad climbing, offering manageable difficulty with the added security of partial bolting. The overall consistency of the rock and logical route finding make it a worthy objective in the area.

Check out some more trad climbing routes here:

Approach

Approaching Kranidi from the north, you will come across an intersection. Follow the signs to Ermioni and drive along the long straight section until you reach an inconspicuous stone chapel on your left and a small sign towards Katafyki Gorge (oriented towards the opposite direction so it’s easy to miss!). Take a hard left and follow the tight tarmac road for about 3 km. until you come to an agricultural dirt road with a sign pointing to Katafyki Gorge to the west. Another 500 m. of well trodden dirt road among olive groves and you are at the crag.

Park the car at the St. Nicholas chapel and follow the trail that goes under the bridge. From that point, you will have a clear view of the ridge and you have to follow the cairn (pile of stones).

From the parking spot till the beginning of the route, you will need about 15 minutes of hike.

Beginning of the trail – Move towards left under the bridge

Route description

R0 – R1 | IV UIAA – 35 m. | 2 Bolts

The first pitch of Electra begins just left of the prominent ridge where Maia route is located. The terrain here sets a gentle tone, inviting climbers into the route with approachable features and well-structured rock.

The initial 10 meters follow an easy, slabby ramp, graded at IV- UIAA. This section offers relaxed climbing with excellent footholds and hand placements, making it an ideal warm-up for what’s to come. As the ramp steepens slightly, the first bolt becomes visible on a compact boulder feature, marking a key point in the pitch.

At this stage, the route introduces a brief but engaging crux section IV UIAA. Here, climbers navigate a small bulge, which is well-protected by the fixed bolt but also accepts additional gear placements for those wishing to supplement the protection. A standard rack of cams and nuts will suffice, offering peace of mind for those newer to multi-pitch trad climbing.

Once past the bulge, the climbing eases again into a pleasant stretch of featured limestone. The second bolt is found midway through this section, offering reassurance as the pitch continues up a series of stepped ledges and small vertical pulls. The rock quality throughout remains solid and trustworthy, with friction that lends confidence even in the slightly steeper moves.

The pitch ends at a generously sized belay ledge, outfitted with two stainless steel anchors for a secure and efficient stance. The belay station is both comfortable and scenic, offering commanding views over the Katafyki Ravine and the surrounding limestone formations—an ideal point to take a breath, rehydrate, and enjoy the exposure before moving onto the next pitch.

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R1 – R2 | IV UIAA – 30 m. | 2 Bolts

Departing from the spacious belay ledge at the top of Pitch 1, the second pitch of Electra maintains the same character—moderate and enjoyable climbing on well-featured limestone, with just enough technical movement to keep climbers engaged.

The pitch begins with a gently inclined slab, offering around 7 meters of easy climbing IV UIAA. This section flows naturally, with plenty of secure footholds and textured surfaces that provide confident grip. As the route gains height, the terrain becomes slightly steeper, leading to a small vertical step where the first bolt is placed, marking a subtle shift in difficulty.

Here, climbers encounter a short crux section, similar in grade to the previous pitch IV UIAA. Additional gear placements are available in adjacent cracks and pockets, making it an excellent opportunity to practice gear management and build confidence on lead.

Above the crux, the climbing transitions into a more relaxed rhythm, following broken ledges and shallow grooves. The second bolt is located midway through this stretch, providing psychological comfort as the route trends slightly left toward the next anchor. The rock continues to offer dependable friction, with occasional solid edges and natural features that lend themselves well to both movement and protection.

The pitch concludes on another comfortable ledge, where a well-equipped belay station with two stainless steel anchors awaits.

R2 – R3 | V+ UIAA – 30 m. | 5 Bolts

Pitch 3 marks a step up in both technicality and character, offering the most sustained climbing of the route so far. From the belay at R2, the route begins with an elegant slab section, immediately engaging at around V- UIAA. This initial 8-meter stretch demands precise footwork and balance as the holds become less positive and the angle steepens gradually.

Following this, the terrain transitions into slightly steeper ground, presenting a consistent sequence of moves around V UIAA.

A short reprieve follows, with a few meters of easier climbing where the angle eases off and larger features become available.

At around the halfway mark, the route arrives at a technical slab that forms the heart of Pitch 3. To the right, a shallow dihedral hints at an alternative line, but the route holds true to the face. This section, graded V+ UIAA, demands precision and composure. The holds are subtle, and friction climbing becomes essential. The crux is well-protected, with several fixed bolts and a cordelette pre-installed to safeguard the most demanding moves.

Once the slab is surmounted, the final stretch offers a welcome change of pace. The difficulty eases to IV UIAA as the rock transitions back to a more featured surface.

Pitch 3 concludes at a comfortable and secure stance R3, equipped with two fixed anchors.

R3 – R4 | VI UIAA – 45 m. | 5 Bolts

The final pitch of Electra is both the longest and most demanding, offering a fitting and memorable conclusion to the climb. It combines moderate climbing, a distinct crux, and some terrain that requires heightened awareness due to loose rock.

From the belay at R3, the pitch begins with straightforward climbing on featured limestone, graded at III UIAA. The terrain here is broken and easy to navigate, allowing climbers to gain height quickly and build momentum. As the pitch progresses, the difficulty gradually increases to IV+ UIAA.

Approximately 15 meters into the pitch, the route reaches a small wild olive tree growing from the wall—a natural landmark that marks the beginning of the crux section. Just above the tree, the route enters a vertical dihedral, where the technical challenge peaks. This portion, graded at VI UIAA, is the crux of the entire route and demands calm, deliberate movement.

The crux is protected by two well-placed bolts, providing psychological security, but climbers should proceed with care. The right side of the dihedral features several flakes that appear unstable and should be avoided where possible. Precision in both footwork and gear placements is essential, and climbers are advised to place minimal load on suspect features.

Once past the dihedral, the route turns right and ascends a broken boulder section of less difficulty, but the rock remains fragile in parts. This section, while not technically challenging, can feel committing due to the potential for loose holds and requires a cautious, mindful approach.

Upon reaching the third bolt, the route veers left, following a more direct line toward the top of the wall. Two additional bolts are found along this upper segment—not strictly necessary for protection, but useful for route-finding in this more complex terrain. These fixed points guide the climber toward the final belay station.

The pitch ends at R4, a well-constructed anchor stance situated just below the summit ledge of the Pleiades Crag.

Attention – Important Disclaimer for Pitch 4

Climbers are strongly advised to exercise extreme caution on Pitch 4, particularly in the crux dihedral and the upper slab sections. Several flakes and rock features—especially on the right side of the dihedral—appear unstable or potentially loose, and could pose a serious hazard if pulled on or dislodged. The lead climber should proceed with delicate and controlled movements, placing gear with care and avoiding any questionable rock. Helmets are essential for both climber and belayer.

This route description is provided for informational purposes only. The author do not assume any responsibility or liability for accidents, injuries, or damage resulting from the use of this information. Climb at your own risk, using your own judgment and experience.

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View from the Top

After we finished the climb, we took some time to celebrate our accomplishments. I felt a sense of camaraderie and connection with my climbing buddies.

Looking back on the day, I feel grateful for the experience. Trad climbing was an adventure that tested my physical and mental strength, and it gave me a newfound sense of confidence in myself.

Great view towards Ermioni, the Gulf oh Hydra and from the other side towards Katafyki Ravine.

Return from the route

In order to return, you have to follow direction south east to the obvious tarmac road that is leading to Katafyki Crag. There is not obvious trail for the return, but if you start descending towards the east and later on you get direction to the south you won’t have any difficulty to reach again the parking spot.

For the return you will need about 25-30 minutes of hike.

ATTENTION: On this route is not recommended to return via abseiling.

Details of the Climb

Location: Pleiades Crag, Katafyki Ravine – Ermioni
Difficulty: VI UIAA
Length: 145 meters
Pitches: 4
When to Climb: All year round
Water Features: None

Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
Simond Backpack
5 lanyards 60 cm
1 lanyard 120 cm
4 locking carabiners
1 HMS carabiner
Petzl Hirundos Harness
Simond Climbing shoes
BD HotWire Quickdraws
Alpine Quickdraws
Cordelette for prusik
2 x 60 m. rope
4 carabiners
Reverso
0.5 lt of Water
1 energy bar
Friends / Camalots
Rock Nuts

Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.