The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida. 

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges. 

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Ek Tou Anasfalous VI UIAA 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Karathona beach – Nafplio

I woke up early on Sunday, feeling excited about the day ahead. I was going trad climbing with a few friends, and I couldn’t wait to get out to the crag and test my skills on the rock face.

After packing all my gear and double-checking my equipment, I hopped into my car and drove out to the crag. As we arrived, I could feel the adrenaline pumping through my veins. I was ready for the challenge.

We took some time to scout out the route and assess the rock quality. We discussed the type of protection we’d need to place as we climbed, and I felt reassured that we were all experienced and knowledgeable about trad climbing techniques.

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Topping up the route

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Climbing in Castle Thermisia (Kastro Thermisias) – Ermionida, Argolis (2023 Update)

If you’re a climbing enthusiast looking for a breathtaking view, Castle Thermisia Crag is the place to be. Located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, this crag offers stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and the sea. The rock formations are also incredibly diverse, making it an ideal spot for climbers of all skill levels.

The crag is located just a short drive from the city of Ermioni. This makes it easy to combine your climbing adventure with some sightseeing and relaxation in the area. In fact, you can even see surrounding areas such as Nafplio, Hydra, Spetses, Epidauros, Poros and Dokos.

There are several climbing routes available at Castle Thermisia Crag, ranging in difficulty from 5a to 8c+/9a. The majority of the routes are sport climbing routes, with well-maintained bolts and anchors for safety.

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C. Vrochidis projecting Careless Corsair (project)
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Petzl Connect Adjust Review

Trad climbing, also known as traditional climbing, is a style of rock climbing where the climber places their own protective gear into the rock as they climb. It is considered a more advanced and committing style of climbing compared to sport climbing, where pre-placed bolts are used for protection. With many years of experience in trad climbing comes the knowledge of the necessary gear to use in order to climb safely and efficiently.

The most essential gear for trad climbing includes a helmet, climbing shoes, harness, climbing ropes, carabiners, quickdraws, slings, and cams or nuts. A helmet is crucial for protecting the head from falling debris or rockfall. Climbing shoes are also essential, as they provide the necessary grip and precision for climbing. A harness is used to attach the climber to the rope, and a climbing rope is used to catch the climber in case of a fall. Carabiners and quickdraws are used to attach the rope to the protection, while slings and cams or nuts are used for protection.

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PETZL Hirundos 2022 – Climbing Harness Review

Not very long time ago, I wanted to purchase a new harness in order to substitute my old -and loved- harness, the Mammut Ophir. In that time, I wanted to have an all around harness, with emphasis on trad and multi-pitch climbing and therefore I got the Petzl ADJAMA. 

Although the Petzl ADJAMA is a great and very comfortable harness, due to the fact most of the days I spend them on sport climbing crags, I also got the new Hirundos model by Petzl.

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Petzl Hirundos Harness 2022 with Gear
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Public VI- UIAA, 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

Visiting the area of Mt. Varasova is always very pleasant and while being there, is always great to try to do as many routes as possible. This is what we have actually done at the beginning of 2023. 

Early morning we climbed Kalydonios Kapros (V+, 100 m) and upon a short break for a snack and a refreshment we decided to go and climb another route, Public.

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View of the rock

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La Sportiva Katana Laces 2022 Climbing Shoes Review

During the past few years, while I have been constantly getting better in climbing, I have been tempted to try and test different kind of climbing shoes. My first pair as a beginner was La Sportiva Tarantula, which was a great pair of shoes for my first “baby steps” in the climbing activities. Upon that, I have tried various other models, such as the Anasazi VCS by 5.10 and the Simond Rock+ and the La Sportiva Otaki. Till this day, most of the times I use the Simond Rock+ and I have been extremely happy, though after a long testing period, I can not say the same about La Sportiva Otaki. Therefore, once again, I did an extensive research, mainly via my network of fellow climbers. My choices where the following two, the La Sportiva Katana Laces (2022 model) or the La Sportiva TC Pro.

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Kalydonios Kapros V+ UIAA, 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

During the winter time, I mostly enjoy to go for Winter Mountaineering activities and the initial plan for the first outdoor trip of 2023, was to visit and climb Mt. Olympus. Though, this year, here in Greece we had minimum snowfalls so far and taking also into the account the high temperatures (for this time of the year), we decided to change our plan and instead of visiting Mt. Olympus for Winter Mountaineering, to visit Mt. Varasova for Trad Climbing.

Our plan was to climb as many multi-pitch routes, in traditional style, thus we selected route in the range of V UIAA and VI UIAA. 

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View of the Rock
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Skytali V+ UIAA 35 m. – Trad Climbing in Arma – Mt. Parnitha – Attica

Every now and then I try to visit one of my favourite outdoor locations of Greece, and specifically Mt. Parnitha which is located just 30 minutes far from Athens city centre. Mt. Parnitha is located in Attiki province, 25km N from the city of Athens. It is one of the 4 mountains(the others are Immitos, Penteli and Poikilo) that surround the circular plain, in which the city of Athens is built. Mt Parnitha is the tallest and more impressive among the mountains that surround Athens.

During my previous visits in Parnitha, I had the pleasure to climb in the area of Flabouri, but this time I want to visit and climb in the area of Arma.

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Tamilthi Peak – View towards Arma
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Climbing in Meteora – Vlemma Tou Gerakiou V+ UIAA 120 m. – Fylakas Agiou Pnevmatos

It has been quite some time since my last visit in the area of Meteora, and due to the fact the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing was organising the annual meet up of the climbing community of Greece, I did not loose the chance to join the festivities and be part in of the most spectacular areas of Greece.

Meteora includes about 170 conglomerate summits of various shapes and types, as massive mountains, rocky pinnacles, minor peaks and spires, some of which are truly amazing and bizarre. The range overlooks the village of Kastràki and the town of Kalabàka and features about 850 multi-pitch and single pitch routes. Due to their singularity and a bit of mistery surrounding the place, in addition to the presence of various monasteries, the towers of Meteora are quite famous all over the world.

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