Visiting the area of Mt. Varasova is always very pleasant and while being there, is always great to try to do as many routes as possible. This is what we have actually done at the beginning of 2023. 

Early morning we climbed Kalydonios Kapros (V+, 100 m) and upon a short break for a snack and a refreshment we decided to go and climb another route, Public.

About Varasova

Varasova is a popular destination for climbing enthusiasts. The area is known for its rugged coastline, towering cliffs and beautiful scenery, which provide a challenging and rewarding climbing experience.

Varasova offers a wide range of climbing routes, from easy beginner routes to challenging, overhanging routes that will test the skills of even the most experienced climbers.

Climbing in Varasova is also a great way to experience the natural beauty of the area. The climbing routes often offer stunning views of the rugged coastline, crystal-clear waters and lush vegetation. The area is also home to a wide range of wildlife, including birds of prey, which can often be seen soaring above the cliffs.

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Public VI-, 90 m.

Public (VI-, 90 m) is located on Mt. Varasova and specifically in Krioneri village. The route can be found by at “Spasmena” and specifically at the Public Sector. The approach is very short and easy.

Public (VI-, 90 m) is 3 pitches long and partly equipped with bolts, thus the portable protection (nut, cams etc.) might be necessary. For experienced climbers, that can climb easily such grades, the bolts might be just enough, otherwise, the use of portable protection will be very helpful.

Anchors have been fitted to each belay station. New anchors have been placed in late 2022.

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Approach

Varasova, has perhaps the easiest and rather effortless approach in Greece.

Varasova is 240 km away from Athens. The location is 30 km away from Antirio. Turn left, before the bridge of Evinos river exactly on the junction for Galatas and Krioneri.

As soon we arrive to Krioneri village, we move towards the last house and right there we can find a small beach with grass field. There is the parking lot and for many, the camp site.

Coming from Athens, one should follow the instructions provided in the map bellow.

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Route description

R0 – R1 | IV+ UIAA, 30 m.

The first pitch is easy and starts with a short slab. Upon that the climber has to move from boulder to boulder without any particular difficulty. In addition, in this first section we can find few bolts and some opportunities to add some additional gear. Pitch 1 does not have any particular crux and we can climb in relative easy terrain up to R1. 

There are two anchors and the belay position is comfortable.

R1 – R2 | VI- UIAA, 30 m.

The second pitch of the climb begins just above R1 and ascends straight upward from the belay station. As you pass the second bolt, the route veers slightly to the left, leading to an overhang (rated VI- UIAA) that presents the most challenging portion of the second pitch and of the entire route.

Once you conquer the overhang, the climb becomes a bit easier as you tackle a positive slab with plenty of holds (around 5a).

Though the holds are small, there are additional bolts to aid in the ascent. Once you reach the top, you’ll be able to relax and take in the breathtaking views of the seaside from the comfortable belay station.

R2 – R3 | approx. V UIAA – 30 m.

Due to the fact we had already climbed another route that day, and it was rather late in the day, we decided to not climb the third pitch, but to abseil down before the sunset. Thus, I do not have any specific details for the third pitch, besides the fact that the terrain was much easier compared to Pitch 2.

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Return

In order to return from the route, actually you have to abseil the route. The best option is to have 2 half ropes of 60 meters and to abseil from R3 to R2 and upon that to abseil from R2 to R0.

For the return calculate enough time in order to abseil the entire route and to collect the ropes.

Recommended Gear

For this trad climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• The North Face Verto 27 Backpack
• Petzl Hirundos Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• Alpine Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 1 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Friends / Camalots
• Rock Nuts

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Details of the Climb

• Location: Mt. Varasova – Spasmena (Public sector)
• Difficulty: VI- UIAA
• Length: 90 meters
• Pitches: 3
• When to Climb:  Late Autumn – Spring
• Water Features: Yes

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More Info about Varasova

Varasova is a limestone massif near the sea, just opposite of Patra and has a height of 917 m. There are three summits of almost the same altitude. Varasova flanks, drop abruptly into the sea on the south and Southwest and this is the location of the most important walls, just between Vasiliki and Kryoneri villages.

The three peaks of Varasova rise to nearly identical elevation. The rock is very solid, relatively sharp, mostly gray or yellow limestone of outstanding quality. It is generously featured and teeming with variety: compact walls, steep slabs, corners and vertical cracks, jugs, flakes, chickenheads, incut edges, and a surplus of hidden holds and footholds which make for sublime climbing over a remarkably blue sea.

The approximately 200 routes of Varasova include single- and multi-pitch sport routes. There are also several mixed-character ‘adventure’ routes with as many as 18 pitches and, although these usually have a few bolts per pitch (mainly on solid sections of rock) plus fixed belay anchors, they will also require placement of nuts or other trad gear (usually in cracks). In spring, many features are obscured by vegetation, so be prepared to do some ‘gardening’. Some parts of the multi-pitch routes have runout, but most anchors are bolted and set up for rappelling.

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.