Climbing in Koutsomaraki Crag – Mount Poikilo, Attica-Greece

While I have been searching for some new climbing crags, I came across a newsletter by Petroupolis Mountaineering Club and I have noticed that on October 4 2020, the inauguration of a new climbing crag took place. In this inauguration was also present Mr. Nikos Latsoudis, who had spotted and indicated the location of this crag about 4 years ago. The climbing crag after much effort and work done by many members of the Petroupolis Mountaineering Club took shape.

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Koutsomaraki Climbing Crag

About Koutsomaraki Climbing Crag

The development of the crag started in 2019 by creating the trail that leads to the crag and it was concluded in 2020.

The Koutsomaraki Climbing Crag offers 7 routes in total, which 6 of them are lead climbing and one is a top rope route. 

All routes were equipped by A. Karapetakos and M. Panagiotopoulos. The Petroupolis Mountaineering Club has plans to equip even more routes in the near future.

Grades 5a to 6c.


See more climbing around Athens here:


In a Nutshell

  • Exposure: East
  • Best Season: Late Autumn – early Summer
  • Sun: From sunrise up to 14.00
  • Walk in: 20 minutes
  • Water: None
  • Family Friendly: Yes
  • Pet Friendly: Yes
  • Camping: None
  • Gear: 60 m. rope, 12 quickdraws
  • Equipped by: A. Karapetakos, M. Panagiotopoulos

Download for free the complete Koutsomaraki Crag Guidebook

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Download free Guidebook
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Download free Guidebook

Approach: How to reach Koutsomaraki Crag

From Athens city centre take direction towards the western suburbs and specifically the municipality of Kamatero. As soon you reach Agiou Nikolaou street, drive till you come across Lykourgou street and turn left.

Follow Lykourgou street up to the point you reach the Profits Elias Playground. You can park your car there at point: 38.051288, 23.690646.

From that point you will identify a trail that will lead you to the climbing crag within 20 minutes.

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Trail to the crag
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Climbing Crag Sign
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View from the trail towards the crag
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View of the crag
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Getting closer to the crag
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Almost at the crag
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Koutsomaraki Climbing Crag Sign


The Routes

Name

Grade

Meters

Tiramola

6a

16

Rantanplan

6c

12

Gerakotrypa

5b

14

Platoon

5c+

13

Rebels

5c

13

Rolling Stones

5a

13

Efkolitsa

5b+

10

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At the crag
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The Crag
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Gerakotripa (ΓερακόΤρυπα) Route sign
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View of the first route (TiraMola)
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Rebels route sign
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Routes Platoon & Rebels

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The Cave

Right at the center of Koutsomaraki Crag there is a small cave about 5 meters deep. At the center of the cave there is a fire pit and at the end of there is a small “chapel” with some christian orthodox icons. In case of bad weather conditions, such as rain or strong winds, this cave can protect you. In addition, during the hot summer days, the cave will provide great shade in order to cool you off between the climbs.

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Cave
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Inside the cave
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a small chapel in the cave

About Mount Poikilo

Mount Poikilo is the western boundary of the Athens Basin and is the natural border with the Thriasio plain. It is an elongated (11km) low mountain range (up to 465m) and is the natural end of Mount Parnitha in the Saronic Gulf. 

Most of the human interventions took place on the east side of the mountain, which is also visible from the city of Athens. Most of the mountain does not have high vegetation but this was not always the case. Until the end of the 19th century it was a mountain with a nice forest and in its lowlands was full of vineyards, olive trees, and other trees.

Mount Poikilo has two groups of peaks, the Northern where the highest peak is Zacharitsa and the Southern where the highest peak is  Kaskadami.

Historical accounts of Mount Poikilo tell us that most of the area around the mountain was very rich and productive. In the classical years, species such as oak, holly and wild olive tree prevailed, while in the Ottoman Empire only wild olive tree. The destruction of the mountain began with the Asia Minor catastrophe, when refugees shot down a large part of the mountain.

The need for survival and fuel of the refugees and later during the occupation destroyed the trees of the mountain. Its period without measure and plan of “development” gave the gratuitous shot. Quarries, camps, houses took the place of trees.

About 200 species of plants have been found on Mount Poikilo, 60 species of insects and is a passage for about 80 species of birds.

In recent years the mountain is turning green again and although the vegetation is currently low if protected Mount Poikilo will become again an oasis right next to the basin of Athens.

Reforestation is partially successful due to soil and climatic conditions. Most reforestation trees, however, show slow growth or dwarf form due to lack of water and lack of rich soil.

In fact, with several soft outdoor activities such as hiking, trail running and climbing can provide again life to this historically important mountain.

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View from the crag

Download for free the complete Koutsomaraki Crag Guidebook

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

13 thoughts on “Climbing in Koutsomaraki Crag – Mount Poikilo, Attica-Greece

  1. Pingback: Hiking in West Parnitha – Agios Kiprianos – Koromilia peak – Tamilthi peak – Alogopetra peak – Agios Kiprianos – Olympus Mountaineering

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