On a blissful summer Saturday morning, with the sun casting its warm glow upon the rugged slopes of Mount Xerovouni, a group of intrepid climbers set out on a quest to conquer the legendary Eternity and a Day (in greek: Αιωνιότητα και μία μέρα) route UIAA VII-, 7 pitches, 250m. With the weather playing its part perfectly, offering clear skies and gentle breezes, the stage was set for an extraordinary adventure.

This iconic route, known for its awe-inspiring chimney, intricate dihedrals, and breathtaking panoramic vistas, promised a day of exhilarating challenges and unforgettable memories. In this post, I invite you to join me as I delve into the intricacies of each pitch, recount the triumphs and tribulations of our ascent, and immerse ourselves in the sheer magnificence of climbing the Eternity and a Day route on Mount Xerovouni,

Contents of the post and Details of the Climb

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Eternity and a Day UIAA VII-, 7 pitches, 250m. | Alpine Climbing on Mount Xerovouni, Evia

“Eternity and a Day”(in greek: Αιωνιότητα και μία μέρα) UIAA VII-, 7 pitches, 250m., was completed and climbed on August 16, 2011, by D. Karalis – S. Koukouzeli.

The initial attempt to establish a new route in the characteristic chimney of the northern face of Mount Xerovouni took place on May 19, 2002, by D. Karalis – D. Aivazidis, who eventually abandoned their effort. In a later attempt, D. Karalis – Ch. Evangelidis tried again in the same chimney but had to abandon due to bad weather conditions.

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Topo of the route Eternity and a Day

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

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General route information

“Eternity and a Day” (UIAA VII-, 7 pitches, 250m.) was completed and climbed on August 16, 2011, by D. Karalis – S. Koukouzeli, who were on their honeymoon trip.

The initial attempt to establish a new route in the characteristic chimney of the northern face of Mount Xerovouni took place on May 19, 2002, by D. Karalis – D. Aivazidis, who eventually abandoned their effort. In a later attempt, D. Karalis – Ch. Evangelidis tried again in the same chimney but had to abandon due to bad weather conditions.

The route was climbed traditionally from the bottom and equipped locally with fixed bolts and anchors. This Alpine route offers an imposing feeling to climbers due to the geometry of the face, which provides increasingly better views as one progresses towards the top. Due to its orientation, it is ideal for the warm months since it remains shaded until 14.00.

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Approach

Setting off from Athens, our destination lies in the nice village of Steni Evias. Following our journey, we pass by a series of springs on the left, providing an opportunity to replenish our water supply. As we continue our route, we encounter an ascending road that stretches for approximately 6.8 kilometers. Before the road begins its descent, we are greeted by a sizable opening on the right, leading to a passable dirt road. A sign guiding us towards Xerovouni accompanies this entrance.

Leaving our vehicle behind, we step onto the picturesque wooded trail. At a junction, we continue straight ahead and, upon reaching a clearing adorned with informative signs, we opt for the right uphill path, guiding us towards Xerovouni. Once we reach the highest point of the ridge, we follow a series of red marks on the rocks for a while. Subsequently, we make a left turn, embarking on a path that runs parallel to the slope, steadily progressing until we reach the beginning of the route.

The approach takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Parking spot: 38.598627, 23.869589

Beginning of the route: 38.584002, 23.900636

Notice: The approach outlined above differs from the photos below. However, I firmly believe that this approach is the most effective and also yields the highest return, which is why I have chosen to present it.

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Route description

R0 – R01 (VI+, 55 m. 3 bolts)

Eternity and a Day commences with a captivating start – a geometric dihedral (VI+) that allows for easy protection. In fact, right at the beginning there is a fixed nut. As climbers ascend, they encounter a low-angle chimney (IV+), leading them to the first belay station (R1). This initial pitch sets the tone for the exciting challenges that lie ahead.

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R1 – R2 (V+, 55 m. 6 bolts)

Continuing the ascent, the second pitch presents a familiar yet thrilling path. Climbers navigate another chimney, gradually approaching the walls-caves on the left. A delicate rocky passage (V+) guides them towards the second belay station (R2), offering a rewarding vantage point to admire the surrounding beauty of the mountain.

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R2 – R3 (VI, 30 m. 7 bolts)

The third pitch treats climbers to a beautiful and homogeneous difficulty dihedral (VI). This section showcases the finesse and technique required to conquer the route. As the climbers make their way up, they reach the third belay station (R3), celebrating their progress and taking a moment to appreciate the sheer determination it took to arrive here.

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R3 – R4 (VII-, 30 m. 9 bolts)

The fourth pitch offers a thrilling and demanding experience as it presents a steep ascent. To overcome the challenging overhangs, we skilfully manoeuvre towards the right (VII-) and subsequently make a slight traverse to the left. Once we secure the last bolt, we enter a captivating small cave where the anchors await on the left side, nestled within its depths. It’s essential to exercise caution within the cave, as there may be loose blocks that could pose potential hazards. 

Notice: The anchors are located inside the cave so you should check carefully in order to identify them.

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R4 – R5 (VI+, 25 m. 7 bolts)

The fifth pitch showcases the diversity of the Eternity and a Day route. Climbers encounter a combination of slabs and cracks of steady difficulty (VI+). As we make our way up, the striking views and challenging sections motivate us to push further. The fifth belay station (R5) becomes a welcome sight, though is the least comfortable belay station.

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R5 – R6 (VII-, 30 m. 7 bolts)

Prepare for the most memorable pitch of the route—the sixth pitch. It starts with slabs and cracks (VI+) and leads climbers to a breathtaking chimney (VII-). The impressive rock formations and the sense of accomplishment make this pitch a highlight of the climb. The fixed bolts are positioned in the best possible location, but there are enough other opportunities, such as tunnels, that we can use additional protection. This pitch is rather demanding but one of the nicest pitches I have climbed on a mountain. Due to the continuous demanding climbing of this pitch, I was not able to stop and take photos.

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R6 – R7 (V+, 25 m. 1 bolt)

The final pitch short with a short pseudo-dihedral, traversing slightly to the right before veering left. As we approach the summit, a characteristic bush comes into view. The seventh and last belay station (R7) awaits just above this bush, marking the culmination of the journey and offering an opportunity to reflect on the incredible accomplishment.

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View from the Top

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Registering your Ascent

If you desire to officially record your ascent and/or provide any comments regarding the route, it is recommended to proceed along the ridge towards the east for approximately three minutes, until reaching the exit point of the “Druna” route, where a metallic container housing an ascent log book can be found.

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Return from the route

To return from the summit, we begin by heading east and walking for approximately 10 minutes until we reach a gully indicated by two cairns. From there, we descend the slope and reach the base within a total of 1 hour.

Alternatively, we can opt for six rappels starting from R7, then descending through R6, R5, R3, R2, and finally R1. These rappels have been strategically organized to facilitate rescue operations if needed. It’s worth noting that the rappel might be a bit dangerous for eventual rockfalls by retrieving the ropes.

Notice: During my descent, I did not find the two cairns and the slope, so we decided to descent from the normal trail past Portaris peak.

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Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

• Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (interactive)
• Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (Single Page)

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Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.