Public VI- UIAA, 90 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

Visiting the area of Mt. Varasova is always very pleasant and while being there, is always great to try to do as many routes as possible. This is what we have actually done at the beginning of 2023. 

Early morning we climbed Kalydonios Kapros (V+, 100 m) and upon a short break for a snack and a refreshment we decided to go and climb another route, Public.

View of the rock

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Kalydonios Kapros V+ UIAA, 100 m. | Trad Climbing in Varasova

During the winter time, I mostly enjoy to go for Winter Mountaineering activities and the initial plan for the first outdoor trip of 2023, was to visit and climb Mt. Olympus. Though, this year, here in Greece we had minimum snowfalls so far and taking also into the account the high temperatures (for this time of the year), we decided to change our plan and instead of visiting Mt. Olympus for Winter Mountaineering, to visit Mt. Varasova for Trad Climbing.

Our plan was to climb as many multi-pitch routes, in traditional style, thus we selected route in the range of V UIAA and VI UIAA. 

View of the Rock

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Trad Climbing in Varasova

Not far away from the estuary of river Evinos, the dominating Varasova rocks emerge right where the peaceful valley of Etoliko meets the sea. Plain beauty of the scenery, exceptional solidity of the rock, easy access and sea joys were the obvious advantages which have established Varasova, as one of the most important climbing areas in Greece.

Varasova is a limestone massif near the sea, just opposite of Patra and has a height of 917 m. There are three summits of almost the same altitude. Varasova flanks, drop abruptly into the sea on the south and Southwest and this is the location of the most important walls, just between Vasiliki and Kryoneri villages.

Varasova as seen from Kryoneri

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