The Ultimate Guide of Trad Climbing in Ermionida, Argolis – Greece

Ermionida, located in the Peloponnese region of Greece, is a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its rugged and steep limestone cliffs, Ermionida offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for all skill levels. In this post, we will introduce you to ten of the most exciting trad climbing routes in Ermionida. 

Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing that involves placing gear to protect oneself while ascending the route. These routes vary in difficulty, from beginner-friendly climbs to more advanced challenges. 

Let’s dive into the details of the ten trad climbing routes in Ermionida.

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Monsters of the Wind – A Mixed Climbing Attempt of the South-West Ridge – Mount Ortholithi

For many years, I have been looking at the South-West ridge of Mount Ortholithi and I was always wondering how it would be to climb it. About two years ago, just before covid would reach Greece and lockdowns would be imposed, I had the chance to go, climb and free a new route which I named as Monsters of the Wind.

Since the moment I climbed Monsters of the Wind , I was wondering if it would ever be possible to try this route in winter conditions. Although this year in Greece we had a quite cold winter with quite some snowfalls, Mount Ortholithi is located in a rather dry area where snowfalls are extremely rare. Nevertheless, in mid-March of the current year we experienced and unexpected fall and I have noticed that the area of Mount Ortholithi would be covered with snow.

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Olive trees, snow and Mount Ortholithi

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The Long Run IV+/V- UIAA 900 m.| Climbing the South-East Ridge of Mount Ortholithi

The first time I visited mount Ortholithi was in 2015 and I was really fascinated by this mountain. Although, in that first ascent I hiked up to the chapel of Saint Elias, I particularly liked to be on the top of mount Ortholithi. Since then, I have been a couple of more times either hiking or climbing. Last year, February 2020, just before the first lockdown in Greece (covid-19), I had the chance to go and first ascent the South-West ridge via a route that I named as “Monsters of the Wind“.  

A year later, once again, mount Ortholithi “invited” me again, but this time, I climbed to the top via the South-East ridge, via a route that was firstly ascent by Jim Titt and Hans Weninger.

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Monsters of the Wind | Climbing the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi

Ever since I started my outdoor adventures, and especially climbing, I was always excited to repeat famous climbing routes that were first ascended by legendary greek and not only climbers.

All these years, I have been on several mountain peaks and lakes, I have climbed traditional routes, I’ve pushed my limits in sport climbing, I trained in Dry Tooling and of course I have done my favourite -of all- activity, winter mountaineering.

Having acquired all the knowledge (via dedicated mountaineering and climbing schools) and extensive experience (via the expeditions I have participated), it was about time to have a first ascent too.

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Monsters of the Wind IV+/V- (South-West ridge of Mount Ortholithi)

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