Athens is the historical capital of Europe, with a long history, dating from the first settlement in the Neolithic age. In the 5^th Century BC (the “Golden Age of Pericles”) – the culmination of Athens’ long, fascinating history – the city’s values and civilization acquired a universal significance. Over the years, a multitude of conquerors occupied Athens, and erected unique, splendid monuments – a rare historical palimpsest. In 1834, it became the capital of the modern Greek state and in two centuries since it has become an attractive modern metropolis with unrivalled charm.

A large part of the town’s historic centre has been converted into a 3 km pedestrian zone (the largest in Europe), leading to the major archaeological sites (“archaeological park”), reconstructing – to a large degree – the ancient landscape.

Although Athens is rich in historical and cultural sites, Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

In the past, we have visited some other crags which are located near Athens, such as Etos Spata, Pano Alogopetra, Epos Fylis, Korakofolia, Acharneis  and Sibligades.

This time though, we have visited another great climbing area, right in Athens city centre, the Tourkovounia crag (red sector).

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About Tourkovounia hills (Anchesmos hills)

The Tourkovounia translates as the Turkish Mountains, it is the highest range of hills in the Attic Basin. Since it is by far the highest hill actually located within the city, it offers sweeping views of the modern city of Athens.

Like many of the other landmark hills of the city, its name has changed with the time. The first mention of the hills in ancient times calls it by the name Anchesmos [Αγχεσμός]. It was said there was a statue of Zeus, the god of weather and the sky, where he would ‘throw’ lightning from above on the mountain. Between the 3rd and 5th Centuries AD it became referred to as Lykovounia [Λυκοβούνια] or Wolf Mountain after the wolves that lived on its slopes.

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Access

Although Tourkovonia hills are located in the city centre of Athens, there is no easy access by metro and/or generally by public transport. Therefore, it is advisable to either get a taxi or go by car.

Tourkovounia Red Sector crag coordinations: 38.00477, 23.75382

As soon you reach the coordinations (provided above), on the pedestrian road, you will see a sign with red sprayed word “ΠΕΔΙΟ” (see photo bellow). Follow the red arrows and you will reach the crag with only 3 minutes of hike.

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About Tourkovounia Crag

Tourkovounia crag is and old crag in the city centre of Athens. In Athens city centre there are more climbing crags such as Filopappou though this crag is divided in three sectors. The Blue, the Green and the Red sector. We have visited the latest sector (Red) and in total there are 51 routes that go from 4c up to 7c.

This crag was mainly established by local climbers during and after WWII, but most of the routes were established on a later stage. In fact, the routes were firstly climbed and bolted by greek and not only legendary climbers such as D. Titopoulos, K. Tsoukleidis, D. Sotirakis, P. Bailey, G. Voutyropoulos, B. Mitsiou, A. Asiminos, V. Vroutsis, C. Kouniakis, P. Smolik and many others.

Renewal of the crag

For unknown reasons, this crag was left on it own and was not visited often by climbers and therefore it lost its allure until the moment, a young and promising mountaineer (F. Theocharis) took the initiative to clean up from garbage the crag, renew the bolts and establish few more new routes.

In fact, F. Theocharis, together with some of his fellow climbers try to revive this crag and in my opinion they did a great job so far and it is very important for other climbers to visit again the Tourkovounia crag.

In addition, F. Theocharis, among others, bolted 2 new routes 33A and 34 that can be used as Dry Tooling too. This is a great opportunity for mountaineers like me to have one more crag that can practice Dry Tooling techniques before going to the mountains.

The only negative aspect of this crag is that despite all the efforts of the local climbing community, there is still high amount of accumulated garbage that has been dropped there by “unknowns”. Hopefully, the local authorities will take the initiative to keep the area clean from garbage.

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Useful Information

Best Period: Autumn and Spring have ideal conditions. The Crag faces to the west and is in the shade from early in the morning. Even in the summer a light breeze and shade make us forget the heat.

Bolts: Not all routes are secured with stainless steel bolts. Route 1-4 are trad and not bolted.

Necessary gear: Rope of 60 meters and minimum 12 quickdraws.

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Red Sector Routes

Name	Grade
1	V
2	VII
3	VI-
4	VI+
5	VI+
6	6b
7	6a
8	6a
9	5c+
10	5a
Lykaki	4c
11	6b
12	4b
13	5b+
14	6a
15	6c
16	6c+
17	5c
18	5a+
19	5c+
20	5c
21	6b
22	6b++
23	6a+
24	6a
24A	VI+
25	VIII
25A	VII
18	5a+
Agchesmos direct	6a
Agchesmos right	5b+
26	5b
27	5a
27A	5b
27D	6a
27E	6c
27B	6b
27C	7c
28	6a
28A	6b+
29	6a+
29A	6c
30	6b
31	5c
31A	5c+
32	6a
32A	6b+
32B	6c
33	6a
33A	4b
34	4a
35	6b

If you liked this post, see more rock climb activities in and around Athens:

• Climbing near Athens Airport – Etos Spata
• Climbing in Pano Alogopetra
• Climbing in Penteli Mountain
• Climbing in Epos Fylis (Parhitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Acharneis (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Korakofolia (Parnitha Mountain)
• Dry Tooling in Rizos’ Cave (Parnitha Mountain)

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Guidebook

There is an available guidebook by D. Titopoulos, “Climbing in Athens“. This is a climbing guide for the small cliffs of Athens and the outlying areas.