Diaberis Pothos | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini

Few weeks ago, on this blog I published my first ever First Ascent that took place on Mount Ortholithi. This time, together with 3 fellow climbers we decided to go and explore the Profitis Elias rock of Asini, nearby Nafplio city.

We have been informed that this rock is an excellent location for trad climbing and we also knew that has been totally unclimbed besides a route which was first ascended by Mountain Guide Kostas Tsoukleidis and Nadine Strobl (O Kipos tou Profiti V+ 110 m.).

Therefore, we decided to go to explore the potential of Profitis Elias rock and specifically the North Face of the rock. We have been very pleased of what we have seen and we decided to climb to the top by the North-East couloir.

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Diaberis Pothos VI UIAA 100 m.

Diaberis Pothos VI UIAA 100 m. – First Ascent of the North-East couloir – Profitis Elias of Asini

On July 14, 2020, my fellow climber Christos Rigas and me, a.k.a. Olympus Mountaineering, we have climbed the route Diaberis Pothos VI UIAA 100 m.


Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Diaberis_Pothos_Profitis_Elias_Asini_COVER
Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (english)

Diaberis Pothos VI UIAA 100 m. | Topographic map

If you are going to climb alpine rock faces, you will need the most detailed information possible about the rock and the route. All this can be found on a topographic map: This is a graphic representation of a climbing route and can usually be found in a guidebook or on certain websites. The lead climber should always have the topographic map at hand when on the rock face.

Like any map, a topographic map uses symbols to represent information about the rock. Climbers can orient themselves on the basis of these standardised Symbols. Illustrations indicate the climbing direction, the length of each pitch and the number and type of belay points. Further indicators that can help with orientation include a logical route, the rock quality as well notable features on the rock.

Bellow a topo of the route Diaberis Pothos VI UIAA 100 m.

Climbing_Diaberis_Pothos_Profitis_Elias_Asini_Topo
Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (english)

General route information

Diaberis Pothos” (VI, 100 m.) first ascent was made on 14/07/2020 by Christos Rigas and Olympus Mountaineering. The route follows the north-east couloir which is located on the north face of Profitis Elias Rock/hill. The route can be described as a “demanding route” with plenty of variety in the climbing style, from slab to dehydral and some scrambling too.


Approach

From Nafplio follow Leoforos Asklipiou and then follow the road to Tolo and Asini. Just before Asini, turn right to Agia Paraskevi. Once in Agia Paraskevi, follow the signs to Profitis Elias and about 150 meters before the trail (Stairs) to the Profitis Elias Chappel, you can park your car on the side of a dirt road.

  • Parking lot location: 37.546691, 22.853306
  • Beginning of the route: 37.545420, 22.855434

Approaching the R0 requires 15 minutes of hiking and there is not an obvious trail. Best advice is to follow a large tube that is providing electricity to huge projector lights.

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Profitis Elias Rock as seen from Agia Paraskevi
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Approach hike towards R0
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Approach hike towards R0
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Approach hike towards R0 (follow the large tube)
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Approach hike towards R0
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O Kipos tou Profiti route V+ 110 m. (Dihedral) – 1st ascensionist K. Tsoukleidis & Nadine Strobl
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First look of the North-East couloir
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View towards Agia Paraskevi – from the base of the route

Route description

R0 – R1 | V UIAA 35 m.

The route starts with the first ropes (35 m.) Right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.545420, 22.855434). The first steps are through a couloir with rubbles (III) and various (unfortunately) trash.

Then, the route goes through a IV degree passage and we climb up up to a small ledge where we can place a good protection (sling) in a wild olive tree. From that point a dihedral (IV) extends and we climb for about 5 meters until we pass (from the right side) another wild olive tree and we enter a slab of V degree that can be well protected with our gear. We continue to climb the slab (V) and we complete by reaching a ledge from the left side, but it needs attention(!) due to a large volume of rubbles and fragments. Having reached the ledge we move to the east (right) until we see a rock slab a significant “S” crack. Few meters above the crack, we can clearly spot 2 tunnels.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette in an obvious large tree. The location for belay is very good and comfortable.

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Getting ready for the climb
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Ready for “war”
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Climbing first meters of pitch 1 V UIAA
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Climbing pitch 1 V UIAA 35 m.
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Pitch 1 V UIAA 35 m.
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Pitch 1 V UIAA – Protection placement
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R1 – Easy, safe and comfortable belay

R1 – R2 | VI UIAA 25 m.

The second pitch (25 m.), starts from the base of the “S” crack (V) where we can place a big camalot (No. 6) as first protection gear. We climb the “S” crack (V) from the right side and our goal is to reach the first (of the two) tunnel where we can place a good piece of gear (sling) before entering the crux of the route.

Having reached the first tunnel, we have to move slightly to the left (east) and move to a rock slab (VI) where we have to make 3 beautiful but demanding moves of VI degree until we reach the second obvious tunnel of the route where we can again place a sling. The second pitch is completed again on a slab by moving slightly to the left (east) with a maximum difficulty of V degree.

We can belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette in an obvious large tree. The location for belay is good, relatively comfortable and with a unique view to the village of Agia Paraskevi.

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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – Route checking
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – Placing Cam #6
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – Climbing
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – Climbing
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – at the first tunnel
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – Crux
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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – S Crack

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Pitch 2 VI UIAA 25 m. – R2
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View from R2
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View from R2
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R2 – Trash from the church (you can’t miss R2 just because of this trash)

R2 – R3 | V+ UIAA 40 m.

The third pitch (40 m.) starts exactly vertical to R2 with a V + grade slab but can be protected quite well by 2 trees but also with nuts and/or friends. Then we continue the obvious upward course in a slab (V-) and as we approach the end of the route, the degree of difficulty decreases (III) and the last 10 m become scrambling.

At this point the view to the east, begins to become unique and we can see Tolo and islands such as Romvi, Koronisi and Platia.

At the top where the route ends, we will find the old chapel of Prophet Elias.

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Climbing Pitch 3 | V+ UIAA 40 m.
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Climbing Pitch 3 | V+ UIAA 40 m.
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View while climbing

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Almost at the top

At the top of Profitis Elias Rock

After three lovely pitches with some demanding moves but with very comfortable belays, we have reached the top of Profitis Elias Rock.

The little church that is build on top is dedicated to Prophet Elias, and thus the name of the hill. The view at the top is panorama (360º) and you can get a pretty good idea of the surrounding area and its morphology. It is on the way to the coast of Tolo, if you are coming from Nafplio.

There is a road that takes you from the village of Ag. Paraskevi to the lower parts of the hill. From there it is a 15-20 mins walk uphill, following the path designated by white crosses, that will take you to the top.

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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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View from the top of Profitis Elias rock
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Gear ordering
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Gear ordering

Return

The return starts from the church of Profitis Elias and through 449 stairs and a very easy descent, we descend to the base of the rock. From there, we follow the dirt road where it leads us to the parking lot. The descent takes about 15-20 minutes.

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Stairs to/from Profitis Elias
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Trail to/from Profitis Elias

Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:


Download for free the complete route description and Topo map

Climbing_Diaberis_Pothos_Profitis_Elias_Asini_COVER
Download the complete route description and Topo map in PDF (english)

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

15 thoughts on “Diaberis Pothos | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini

  1. antonis Patousias

    Ειμασταν στην περιοχη σου και δυο μερες πριν, στις 12 Ιουλιου, ανεβηκαμε πεζοπορικα στον πρ Ηλία. Μας εκανε εντυπωση, αλλα δεν ειχαμε καθολου πληροφοριες. Αρκεστηκαμε σε σκαρφαλωμα στο Κονδυλι.
    Πολυ ωραια διαδρομη ο Διαμπερής Ποθος!!!
    Καλη συνεχεια και ελπιζω να ξαναβρεθουμε στα βουνα…
    Αντωνης Νανσυ

    Like

    1. Χαίρε Αντώνη και Νάνσυ,

      Εύχομαι να περάσατε όμορφα στο Κονδύλι και να συνδιάσατε την αναρρίχηση με την όμορφη παραλία.

      Ο “Διαμπερής Πόθος”, ανοίχτηκε πριν απο 2 ημέρες, όμως, στον συγκεκριμένο βράχο υπάρχουν πολλές πιθανές γραμμές για νέες διαδρομές. Επίσης, να αναφέρω ότι στις 22/1/2012 ο Κώστας Τσουκλείδης μαζί με την Nadine Strobl, σκαρφάλωσαν το χαρακτηριστικό “σχισμοδίεδρο” που υπάρχει στην βόρια όψη του βράχου. Η διαδρομή έχει πάρει την ονομασία “Ο Κήπος του Προφήτη” (V+ UIAA, 110 m.).

      Την επόμενη φορά που θα είστε στην περιοχή, ενημέρωσέ με.

      Χαιρετισμούς

      Like

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