Not far away from the estuary of river Evinos, the dominating Varasova rocks emerge right where the peaceful valley of Etoliko meets the sea. Plain beauty of the scenery, exceptional solidity of the rock, easy access and sea joys were the obvious advantages which have established Varasova, as one of the most important climbing areas in Greece.

Varasova is a limestone massif near the sea, just opposite of Patra and has a height of 917 m. There are three summits of almost the same altitude. Varasova flanks, drop abruptly into the sea on the south and Southwest and this is the location of the most important walls, just between Vasiliki and Kryoneri villages.

The limestone rocks of Varasova have earned a good reputation due to their Spupolitidy. “Hidden” holds and secure nut placements, make climbing in Varasova particularly enjoyable.

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See other hiking and climbing activities:

• Climbing in Penteli Mountain
• Climbing the North-East Ridge of mount Hymettus
• Climbing in Epos Fylis (Parhitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Acharneis (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Korakofolia (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Etos Spata
• Climbing in Pano Alogopetra (Parnitha Mountain)
• Via Ferrata Arma (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing on Flabouri Ridge (Parnitha Mountain)
• Winter Hike on Mount Parnitha

The three peaks of Varasova rise to nearly identical elevation. The rock is very solid, relatively sharp, mostly gray or yellow limestone of outstanding quality. It is generously featured and teeming with variety: compact walls, steep slabs, corners and vertical cracks, jugs, flakes, chickenheads, incut edges, and a surplus of hidden holds and footholds which make for sublime climbing over a remarkably blue sea.

The approximately 200 routes of Varasova include single- and multi-pitch sport routes. There are also several mixed-character ‘adventure’ routes with as many as 18 pitches and, although these usually have a few bolts per pitch (mainly on solid sections of rock) plus fixed belay anchors, they will also require placement of nuts or other trad gear (usually in cracks). In spring, many features are obscured by vegetation, so be prepared to do some ‘gardening’. Some parts of the multi-pitch routes have runout, but most anchors are bolted and set up for rappelling.

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Approach

Varasova, has perhaps the easiest and rather effortless approach in Greece.

Varasova is 240 km away from Athens. The location is 30 km away from Antirio. Turn left, before the bridge of Evinos river exactly on the junction for Galatas and Krioneri.

As soon we arrive to Krioneri village, we move towards the last house and right there we can find a small beach with grass field. There is the parking lot and for many, the camp site.

Coming from Athens, one should follow the instructions provided in the map bellow.

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Description

Rocks and climbing
Routes in Varasova can be divided, more or less, into the following three categories:

• a) Sport Climbing routes
  These are the routes of high technical difficulty, which have been established during the last few years. You need, mostly, only quickdraws in order to repeat these bolted routes. Most of these climbs have seen their first ascent by means of abseiling from the top of the routes and placing the in situ belays.
• b) Adventure routes
  The majority of the routes belongs in this category. They practically offer sparse in situ belays. In order to repeat these climbs, you need a full set of nuts and Friends but no pitons or hammer. On most of them, there are not even anchors at the belay points, so you must fix your own belay points. Please note that the possibly rusty and old pitons that you may encounter are of dubious safety.
• c) Instructive routes
  There are some routes, which have been bolt, protected every three or four metres, so that they can offer safety to young climbers. For the time being, these climbs are very few.

Many of the adventure routes should become training ones, in our opinion, in order to create training possibilities along the whole range of technical difficulty.

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Multi Pitch Mixed Trad: Pyrgos (Tower) V+ 130m.

Pyrgos (Tower), is one of the most climbed multi pitch mixed trad routes in Varasova.

It is rated as a V+ UIAA and it partly bolted.

• Pitch 1 – V+ , 25 m.  2 bolts
• Pitch 2 – IV , 20 m.  1 bolt
• Pitch 3 – IV , 125 m.  1 bolt
• Pitch 4 – V+, 30 m. 6 bolts

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I share these articles and the climbing guidebooks because I love the outdoors, and they’ll always be free. If they’ve helped you, help me keep them coming. Click the button to support my work.

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Recommended Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• Simond 22 lt. Back pack
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Mammut Ophir Speedfit Harness
• Simond Rock+ Climbing shoes
• 6 Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. half ropes
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 1.5 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Rock Nuts

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See other hiking and climbing activities:

• Climbing in Penteli Mountain
• Climbing the North-East Ridge of mount Hymettus
• Climbing in Epos Fylis (Parhitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Acharneis (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Korakofolia (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing in Etos Spata
• Climbing in Pano Alogopetra (Parnitha Mountain)
• Via Ferrata Arma (Parnitha Mountain)
• Climbing on Flabouri Ridge (Parnitha Mountain)
• Winter Hike on Mount Parnitha

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