Climbing in Manikia – Pehnidia Sector – Vrysi, Evia

Nestled in the heart of Greece‘s picturesque island of Evia, the captivating village of Manikia has emerged as a haven for rock climbing enthusiasts. With its unique gorge, Manikiatis river, limestone formations and a growing number of climbing routes, this area has captured the attention of both local and international climbers. In this blog post, I will delve into the history, approach, sectors, and overall experience of climbing in Manikia, Evia.

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Beautiful rock formation

History and Development

The story of climbing in Manikia began several years ago when a group of Greek climbers discovered the potential of the area around Vrisi. However, it wasn’t until 2015 that a group of French climbers stumbled upon the region and recognized the unparalleled quality and beauty of the rocks in Manikia-Vrisi and the wider Kimi area.

Impressed by the untapped potential, the French climbers initiated contact with the local authorities and gained the support of the Municipality of Kimi-Aliveri. They began the arduous task of obtaining the necessary approvals and licenses from the relevant authorities.

Finally, in October 2018, the team of French volunteer climbers embarked on developing the first climbing routes. As of the end of 2019, they have successfully established over 350 routes, with the intention of continuing to expand and create new routes.

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Lower Valley (Left/South) Sector
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Lower Valley Sector

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Manikia & Vrysi Climbing Areas

Since its development in 2018, Manikia has quickly gained a reputation for its high-quality limestone rock and a diverse range of climbing routes. With over 350 established routes, climbers of all skill levels can find challenges that suit their abilities.

The majority of routes in Manikia fall within the F6 and F7 grades, although there are routes ranging from F4 to F9a for those seeking more demanding ascents. The harder routes often involve thrilling journeys through massive overhangs, with tufas and epic features. Additionally, the area boasts beautiful grey limestone walls and slabs, providing a variety of easier routes for climbers to enjoy.

Beyond single-pitch routes, Manikia offers a selection of 15 multi-pitch routes up to 250m in length, with grades ranging from F6a+ to F7b. These longer routes provide climbers with the opportunity to immerse themselves in the stunning surroundings while experiencing the challenges of multi-pitch climbing.

The climbing area around Manikia is divided in the area of Manikia and thearea of Vrysi. Each Climbing area, has different sectors with all type of climbing and grades.


Manikia Climbing Areas

  • Lower Valley
  • Central Valley / Middle Valley
  • Upper Valley
  • Canyon
  • North Face
  • Lower Valley left (south) side
  • Above Manikia / Pano Manikia

Vrysi Climbing Areas

  • Oi Portes tou Kastrou
  • Bain de Boue
  • Pehnidia
  • White Wall
  • Monopati ton Chelonon
  • Dragonera
  • Eisodos

Pehnidia Sector

While visiting the area of Manikia and Vrysi, I had the great opportunity to explore the Pehnidia sector, and I must say, it was an absolute thrill! If you’re looking for an exhilarating climbing experience amidst stunning natural beauty, this is the place to be.

Located in Vrysi (Evia), the Pehnidia sector is a hidden gem for climbers, offering a diverse range of routes that cater to climbers of all skill levels.

Pehnidia sector boasts a wide variety of routes, ranging from beginner-friendly climbs to more challenging and technical ascents that will push your limits. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a novice looking to embark on your first climbing adventure, you’ll find routes that suit your preferences and skill level.

The rock formations in Pehnidia are simply awe-inspiring. Limestone cliffs and crags create a unique landscape, with intricate holds, cracks, and pockets that make for an engaging and dynamic climbing experience. As you conquer the heights, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and the stunning Dragonera crag.

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Pehnidia Sector
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Rock quality

Approach

Approaching Vrysi village in Evia from Athens by car is a scenic and straightforward journey. Here are clear instructions to guide you:

  1. Begin your trip in Athens, Greece.
  2. Head east on the National Road E75 (Athens-Lamia Highway) towards Lamia.
  3. Continue on the E75 for approximately 40 kilometers until you reach the exit for Chalkida (also known as Halkida).
  4. Take the exit for Chalkida and merge onto the EO1/ΕΟΝ1 (National Road of Chalkida) heading north.
  5. Follow the EO1/ΕΟΝ1 for approximately 60 kilometers, passing through the towns of Oropos and Avlida.
  6. Upon reaching Chalkida, you will approach a bridge connecting the mainland with Evia Island. Cross the bridge, entering Evia.
  7. After crossing the bridge, continue straight on the EO44/ΕΟ44 (Evia Odos) towards Kimi/Aliveri.
  8. Stay on the EO44/ΕΟ44 for about 50 kilometers, passing through the towns of Psachna and Agia Anna.
  9. As you continue on the EO44/ΕΟ44, keep an eye out for signposts indicating the way to Vrysi village.
  10. Follow the signposts and take the appropriate turns to reach Vrysi village, which is situated in the vicinity of Manikia village.

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Signage towards the various sectors

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Hiking on a dirt road towards Pehnidia sector

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First view of Pehnidia sector

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Pehnidia Sector Routes (18 routes, 4c -7b)

Please be aware that the routes in Pehnidia sector are not clearly labeled at the beginning of each route, except for Donkey Kong. This means that you need to ensure you are climbing the desired route by carefully identifying it. Personally, I found this lack of clear labeling to be inconvenient and consider it a minor aspect that could be improved in the region of Vrysi and Manikia.

Important to know: During summer time this sector is in shade from 11.00 till sunset. Perfect location for the summer months or the warm days.

ROUTE NAMEGRADE
Unknown 16a
Unknown 26a
Unknown 36a+
Space Invaders6c
Bubble Bubble6b
Wonder Boy6b
Sabotage6b+
Phoenix6a+
Super Mario6a+
Tank Patrol7b
Donkey Kong6a+
Pacman5c
Tetris5b
Skorpios5a
Nychterida6a
Kriari6a
Snoopy5a
Scooby Doo4c

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Checking out the routes

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Climbing a warm up route

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Well bolted routes

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View from the Crag

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Beautiful view from Pehnidia sector

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View towards Dragonera sector


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About Manikia & Vrysi (Vrisi) villages

Manikia Village, located in the heart of Evia Island in Greece, is a small and charming settlement that has gained recognition among outdoor enthusiasts, particularly rock climbers. Tucked away amidst stunning natural surroundings, Manikia offers a peaceful and picturesque escape from the bustling cities.

The village itself exudes traditional Greek charm, with its whitewashed houses, narrow winding streets, and vibrant bougainvillea adorning the walls. As you explore the village, you’ll encounter friendly locals who are often warm and welcoming to visitors, contributing to the overall sense of community that pervades the area.

The tranquility of Manikia is enhanced by its remote location, providing a serene ambiance that is ideal for relaxation and outdoor activities. In addition to its appeal for climbers, the village serves as an excellent base for nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking to immerse themselves in the natural wonders of Evia.

Adjacent to Manikia, Vrisi Village complements the experience of visiting the region. This small settlement, located in the wider area of Kimi, offers its own unique charm and attractions. Vrisi, which means “fountain” in Greek, takes its name from the natural springs that dot the area, providing a refreshing source of water for both residents and visitors.

Vrisi Village retains a strong connection to its agricultural roots, with terraced fields and olive groves dotting the landscape. The village is known for its warm hospitality, and you’re likely to encounter locals engaging in traditional activities such as farming and tending to their vineyards.

As you stroll through Vrisi, you’ll notice the harmonious blend of old and new, with traditional stone houses interspersed with more modern residences. The village offers a peaceful and authentic atmosphere, where time seems to slow down, allowing visitors to fully appreciate the beauty of the surrounding nature.

Together, Manikia and Vrisi create a captivating destination that offers a balance of adventure and tranquility. Whether you’re exploring the climbing routes in Manikia or enjoying the bucolic charm of Vrisi, these neighbouring villages provide a unique and memorable experience in the heart of Evia, Greece.

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Manikia Village – Central square

Where to Stay

Accommodation options in the area of Manikia and Vrysi are quite limited. There are only a few rental properties available, and the camping facilities in the region offer minimal to no services. During my visit to Manikia, I discovered that the camping site was closed, prompting us to search for an alternative location to set up our camp.

Fortunately, we found an excellent spot in Manikia that provided us with access to fresh water, ensuring our basic needs were met while camping. Despite the limited accommodation choices, this particular location offered a satisfying camping experience.

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Support the journey — buy me a coffee

I share these articles and the climbing guidebooks because I love the outdoors, and they’ll always be free. If they’ve helped you, help me keep them coming. Click the button to support my work.


Further information

For further information on climbing in Manikia, Evia, Greece, visit the official website here. This comprehensive resource provides valuable insights into the climbing routes, attractions, and amenities available in the area.

Additionally, if you’re looking for a detailed climbing guidebook to enhance your climbing experience in Manikia, you can find it here. This guidebook offers essential information, route descriptions, difficulty ratings, and valuable tips to ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing adventure in Manikia.


Before you leave this blog check out the following map

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.

4 thoughts on “Climbing in Manikia – Pehnidia Sector – Vrysi, Evia

    1. Thank you for your kind comment! I’m glad you enjoyed the post.

      Manikia is indeed a beautiful place, and it’s wonderful to hear that you’ve heard great things about it.

      Next to Kalymnos, Leonidio and Ermionida, Manikia is gaining traction as a climbing destination in Greece.

      I hope that one day you have the opportunity to visit Manikia and experience its beauty firsthand.

      Like

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