As already described on a previous post, Greece is not only a sea, sun and cultural destination, but is also a great destination for mountain activities, including sport climbing too. Specifically, Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

This time, we decided to visit Pano Alogopetra. Pano Alogopetra (Greek for “Upper Alogopetra”) is a cluster of rock faces in the northern side of the Alogopetra peak, over the village of Fyli. Pano Alogopetra sits on an elevated balcony with grand view over the Fyli valley. On a clear day the eye can wander from the edge of Gkoura canyon down to the Elefsina coast on the south west and the city of Athens on the southeast. This is a great spot to enjoy a fiery winter sunset after a full day of climbing.

The rock is typical limestone ranging in coloration and quality from solid compact gray to sharp mineral-sculptured white/orange. Most routes are free of loose rock. One of the crag’s most appealing qualities is the height of the routes, reaching 35 or even 45-50 meter and guaranteeing long fulfilling ventures on the vertical.

The cliff is a bird nesting area (including rare birds of prey) and after March it should be treated as such. Scan your chosen line for nests before climbing and choose another climbing area if you observe bird activity that indicates the existence of nests.

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See more rock climb activities on the links bellow:

• Climbing near Athens Airport – Etos Spata
• Climbing in Nafplio
• Climbing in Katafyki Gorge – Ermioni
• Climbing in Leonidio
• Trad Climbing on Artemisio Mountain
• Climbing in Fragchti Caves
• Climbing in the Pillars of the Winds

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About Pano Alogopetra

Despite being an obvious face visible from far away, Pano Alogopetra has seen its first route just before the coming of the new millennium. The usual suspect H. Orfanoudakis was the first to put up routes on the cliff back in 1999. Soon enough the cause was joined by others (S. Gkezerlis, G. Aliferis, M. Mitilineos, G. Sharki , A Karapetakos) and by year 2003 a total of 33 routes had been established on the left wall. Meanwhile, G. Aliferis established an additional 4 routes in trad style on the far right wall, all with different climbing partners.

A complete guidebook for climbing in Athens here: Athens Climbing Guidebook

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Access

From Attiki Odos Exit #6, follow Fylis Avenue towards Fyli / Chasia (north/west).
Follow the road for 500m until big roundabout. Take the third exit on the roundabout and continue on Fylis Avenue. 3,1km after the roundabout you will see a golden-domed church on your right hand -Panagia Kanala (ΠANAΓΙΑ ΚΑΝΑΛΑ) and a football pitch on your left.

Soon after passing the golden-domed Panagia Kanala church take the right turn opposite tο bus stop 31st Fylis (31η ΦΥΛΗΣ) following signposts to ‘‘taverna – Ta Pitharia” (Ταβέρνα -ΤΑ ΠΙΘΑΡΙΑ). 1,8km later, reach crossroad, turn right and take the left branch.

Continue straight ahead on narrow winding road for 1,6km till you reach the end of the asphalt. Either park here next to big green water tank or take the right branch of the dirt road for 50m where faint secondary dirt road leaves to the right. Follow this road till the dead end on old field. About 30 meters before the dead end, and on the left side (looking to the crag), the path to the climbing crag starts. The rocks are clearly visible and can be reached by following the faint path.

• Total walking distance: 300m
• Walking time: 12min
• Total positive altitude: 90m.

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The Routes

This is a superb location for sunny winter days and there are long fulfilling routes aimed for intermediate and experienced climbers.

Name	Grade	Meters
Hassan	6a	18
Babylino	6c	12
Master Pipilas	6b	12
Kolosseo	6a+	20
Kolovaktiridio	6a	30
Klinon Asti	6a	35
Parkinson	6a+	35
Kleoniki	5b+	35
Thanaso	5c	35
Petagma Aetou	6a	35
Elepolis	6b	35
Sahara	6c+	33
Baterman	7c	33
Parto Algo Kai Koyrefto	6c+	35
Mata Hari	6c	35
Katagma	7b+	30
Spaniola	6c	30
5,9 Richter	6b+	30
Koulouvachata	6c	33

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Climbing in Pano Alogopetra

That was the first time we visited this crag and therefore we have lost track of the trail path that leads to Pano Alogopetra from the parking lot. Despite our wandering through the forest, we have managed to reach the crag in all excitement.

This crag is not the easiest to be reached and therefore we do not recommend it for families or for the lazy climber that wants easy access to the climbing crag.

It was about 11.30 in the morning and the Pano Alogopetra crag was rather full and actually we had to wait for our first route. The first route we have tried was “Petagma Aetou” 6a (Eagle’s flight), and right after it was the turn of Thanasso 5c. Both routes are very nice, but are rather demanding, especially in the crux.

On my personal first try for that day, I have had again a sharp pain on my shoulder (like I have had the previous days) and therefore I was not able to enjoy anymore the climbing. Though, the rest continued climbing on various other routes, including Chassan, Kolovaktiridio, Koloseo and the beautiful Master Pipilas and Babylino.

At around 15.00, the weather turned to be very mild and the sun beams were reflecting beautifully on the limestone rock. On that point, and just before ending our activities, some of our fellow climbers tried to more difficult routes, like the Babylino and Master Pipilas.

After a full day of beautiful climbing near Athens, it was about time to complete our activities, collect our climbing gear and head to the parking lot. A very interesting thing about this crag was that many expats living in Greece were climbing on that specific day. People from UK, Australia and France amongst the locals.

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If you liked this post, check out more rock climb activities on the links bellow:

• Climbing near Athens Airport – Etos Spata
• Climbing in Nafplio
• Climbing in Katafyki Gorge – Ermioni
• Climbing in Leonidio
• Trad Climbing on Artemisio Mountain
• Climbing in Fragchti Caves
• Climbing in the Pillars of the Winds