Dirfi Mountain Winter Climb via Couloir

For one more time, due to weather conditions we were forced to change our initial plans and instead of Vardousia mountain, we have decided to visit the beautiful mountain of Evia, Dirfi.

Dirfi is the highest mountain of Evia. Although Evia is technically an island, it is considered part of mainland Greece because it is only separated by a narrow channel. It stretches from NW to SE, with Dirfi rising in the middle.

Its highest peak Delphi 1,743 meters, is the highest mountain of all the Greek islands after the mountains of Crete. The mountain has pine trees, chestnuts, oak trees, fir trees, many steep parts and a rich fauna. Each year there is a lot of snow on its high peaks and for this reason it has so many springs of flowing waters, which are bottled. You should also see the aesthetical forest of Steni and the famous Dragon Houses on the mountain. The hut of the mountaineering association of Chalkida, is located at an altitude of 1.150 meters above sea level.

Even though its height is moderate, Dirfi is popular for two reasons: The proximity to Athens (making a day trip possible) and the challenging conditions. Being exposed to the winds of the Aegean Sea, Dirfi often has weather conditions normally found on much higher mountains. The route to the peak is a walk-up but the weather can still make you turn back. Its slopes also attract Ski-Mo activities. What is strange about Dirfi is that its peak looks like a volcano crater, which is why some people call it “Greek Fuji”. There are some steep couloirs near the peak but they are too short to be considered routes.

see previous winter ascent in Dirfi mountain here:

Winter Ascent Dirfi Mountain

Our starting point was the mountain hut of Dirfi and we wanted to reach the highest point of the mountain via the impressive and relatively difficult to climb the “couloir of Dirfi”. Unfortunately, for this time of the year the snow conditions on the mountain were really poor and therefore we were prepared to climb to the top in mixed climb conditions. This means, the climb would be done in snow and rock.

The first par of the route is very easy and basically is following a dirt road that leads to the base of the mountain. From that point and on, we had to ascent a very steep face and the visibility was poor due to thick fog. The Garmin Dakota 20 was a great help in order to keep us on track and to not move towards a wrong direction.

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4702 — Fog, rocks and Snow

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4703 — Usually this face is full of snow

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4704 — Finally snow

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4707 — Ropes

In order to reach the couloir, we had to traverse the south face of the mountain in steep terrain (around 40 degrees) and therefore for maximising our safety we have decided to use the our winter equipment, such as ice axe, crampons and rope. The wind was blowing quite hard but we were so excited to climb up the couloir that we did not mind about the weather.

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4708 — Climbing up on the snowy slopes

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4709 — Snow and rock

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4710 — Fog

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4711 — Climbing

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4712 — entering the couloir

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4713 — Exposed passage

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4714 — Couloir

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4715 — collecting the rope

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4717 — Last part of Dirfi Couloir

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4718 — exciting the couloir of Dirfi

Just under two hours from the moment we left the mountain hut, we have reached the first peak of Dirfi and few minutes after we managed to arrive to the summit of the mountai, Delfi, 1.743. We were all in great condition and very excited we have climbed from that part of the mountain.

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4719 — Ice Axes at the top

Dirfi_Mountain_Winter_Ascent_Olympus_Mountaineering_4720 — Delphi, Dirfy Peak 1743

How to reach Dirfy Mountain from Athens

Use the E-75 highway (joining Athens with northern Greece) and exit to Chalkida. The city is located on the East side of the channel.(77km from Athens).

After passing the bridge don’t enter the city, instead turn left following the signs to northern Evia and Artaki. In Artaki (5km) turn right and follow the signs to Steni. Steni is a village at Dirfi’s base and the usual trekking start. (27km from Chalkida)

Where to Stay

There is a hut maintained by Chalkida Alpine Club. It is usually open on weekends (in the winder only if the road is cleared) for food and warm drinks. You can make reservations there even if the road is not open by contacting the club. The hut sleeps 50, has a fully equipped kitchen and shower with hot water.

The surrounding environment can also be used for tents.