Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Douvari

Leonidio (Greek: Λεωνίδιο) is a town and a former municipality in Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the municipality South Kynouria, of which it is a municipal unit. The town of Leonidio, with a population of 3.826, emerges from a spectacular landscape, bound by two abrupt mountainsides enclosing the town from the north and south.

The River Dafnon passes through the town, and its banks are linked with three bridges. The town is capital of the Tsakonia region, notable for its cultural and linguistic particularities, and the settlement itself offers striking and picturesque architecture; now a protected architectural site, there are very strict regulations for building within the town’s limits.

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Kokkinovrachos as seen from Leonidio

Most climbing in Leonidio happens at crags on the surrounding hillsides, not directly above town. The cliffs of Leonidio are highly-featured limestone, and climbing is enjoyable and varied: tufa columns, smooth crimpy walls, caves with stalactites, grey balancy walls.

Climbing conditions in Leonidio are ideal for winter climbing, as the concave red cliff above the town acts as a natural shield against bad weather. The best period for climbing in Leonidio is November to April, though some crags higher up in the hills are good for climbing even on hot spring, fall or summer days.


See other climbing activities in Greece here:


The vast majority of climbing routes in Leonidio are relatively new. Many still require thorough cleaning of loose rock and traffic to improve. Pieces still break off, so helmets are strongly recommended.


Approach

You can park the car in the U-turn just in the outskirts of Leonidio, where the following sectors are located:

  • Douvari
  • Kokkinovrachos
  • Red Rock
  • Hospital

Easy access from the Douvari approach to within about 50m of that sector then branching off right on a steeper zigzagging scree path marked by frequent red blobs.

Total Time: around 30mins.

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Sectors signs in the parking lot
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Dirt road
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Douvari & Kokkinovrachos sectors
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Towards Kokkinovrachos

Sector Douvari

Douvari, an extension of sorts of sectors Orama and Rocspot, shares the description of those sectors: popular, easy and mid-grade, well-protected single pitches, fantastic views.

Actually, the subsector of the largest sector Kokkinovrachos. Probably the best sector for climbers on the level 5 – 6. It contains about 30 routes, of which a dozen are two-pitches, or rather one-pitch with extension. The first part is always easier, at the level of the majority of 5a – 6a+, it is about 20 m long and ends in a normal belay station. Next comes the harder, shorter part (10 – 15 m) on the level 6a – 6c+. Views of the town, the sea and the surrounding rocks are great.

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View of Leonidio from Douvari sector

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Multi-pitch belay station

The routes

Name

Grade

Meters

Tsamiko

4c

27

Bakaliko

5b

25

Akadimia

6b+

27

48 ores

6a

25

Rammstein

6a+

30

Votsalo

5c+

30

Hilti maniac

5a+

30

Metallica

6a

33

Palikaria

5b+

30

Argo

5b+

30

Je suis Charlie

5b+

30

Cabu

5c+

20

Holiday in Cambodia

5a

22

Holiday in Cambodia ext

6a+

32

Rock cleaner

5b

20

Rock cleaner ext

6a+

30

Margarita

5c

25

Margarita ext

6a+

32

Mini Einstein

5c

25

Mini Einstein ext

6a

32

Rodomelo

4c

18

Rodomelo ext

6b

35

Mouria

4c

18

Mouria

6b

35

Myrtoon

5a

18

Myrtoon ext

6b

35

Kefala

5b

22

Kefala ext

6c

35

Samatas

5b

22

Samatas ext 1

6a+

30

Samatas ext 2

6c+

40

Zamanfou

5c

22

Zamanfou ext

6c

40

Metaxotos

6a+

33

Metaxotos ext

7a

40

Dokimos

6a+

25

Dokimos ext

6b+

33

Faka

6a+

22

Faka ext

6c+

33

Erotas above the city

6a

22

Erotas above the city ext

6b+

33

Silk

5c

25

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See other climbing activities in Greece here:

One thought on “Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Douvari

  1. Pingback: Climbing in Leonidio – Sector Mini Canyon – Olympus Mountaineering

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