Leonidio (Greek: Λεωνίδιο) is a town and a former municipality in Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the municipality South Kynouria, of which it is a municipal unit. The town of Leonidio, with a population of 3.826, emerges from a spectacular landscape, bound by two abrupt mountainsides enclosing the town from the north and south.

The River Dafnon passes through the town, and its banks are linked with three bridges. The town is capital of the Tsakonia region, notable for its cultural and linguistic particularities, and the settlement itself offers striking and picturesque architecture; now a protected architectural site, there are very strict regulations for building within the town’s limits.

Most climbing in Leonidio happens at crags on the surrounding hillsides, not directly above town. The cliffs of Leonidio are highly-featured limestone, and climbing is enjoyable and varied: tufa columns, smooth crimpy walls, caves with stalactites, grey balancy walls.

Climbing conditions in Leonidio are ideal for winter climbing, as the concave red cliff above the town acts as a natural shield against bad weather. The best period for climbing in Leonidio is November to April, though some crags higher up in the hills are good for climbing even on hot spring, fall or summer days.

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See other climbing activities in Greece here:

• Rock climbing in Greece

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The vast majority of climbing routes in Leonidio are relatively new. Many still require thorough cleaning of loose rock and traffic to improve. Pieces still break off, so helmets are strongly recommended.

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Approach

You can park the car in the U-turn just in the outskirts of Leonidio, where the following sectors are located:

• Douvari
• Kokkinovrachos
• Red Rock
• Hospital

Easy access from the Douvari approach to within about 50m of that sector then branching off right on a steeper zigzagging scree path marked by frequent red blobs.

Total Time: around 30mins.

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Sector Douvari

Douvari, an extension of sorts of sectors Orama and Rocspot, shares the description of those sectors: popular, easy and mid-grade, well-protected single pitches, fantastic views.

Actually, the subsector of the largest sector Kokkinovrachos. Probably the best sector for climbers on the level 5 – 6. It contains about 30 routes, of which a dozen are two-pitches, or rather one-pitch with extension. The first part is always easier, at the level of the majority of 5a – 6a+, it is about 20 m long and ends in a normal belay station. Next comes the harder, shorter part (10 – 15 m) on the level 6a – 6c+. Views of the town, the sea and the surrounding rocks are great.

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The routes

Name	Grade	Meters
Tsamiko	4c	27
Bakaliko	5b	25
Akadimia	6b+	27
48 ores	6a	25
Rammstein	6a+	30
Votsalo	5c+	30
Hilti maniac	5a+	30
Metallica	6a	33
Palikaria	5b+	30
Argo	5b+	30
Je suis Charlie	5b+	30
Cabu	5c+	20
Holiday in Cambodia	5a	22
Holiday in Cambodia ext	6a+	32
Rock cleaner	5b	20
Rock cleaner ext	6a+	30
Margarita	5c	25
Margarita ext	6a+	32
Mini Einstein	5c	25
Mini Einstein ext	6a	32
Rodomelo	4c	18
Rodomelo ext	6b	35
Mouria	4c	18
Mouria	6b	35
Myrtoon	5a	18
Myrtoon ext	6b	35
Kefala	5b	22
Kefala ext	6c	35
Samatas	5b	22
Samatas ext 1	6a+	30
Samatas ext 2	6c+	40
Zamanfou	5c	22
Zamanfou ext	6c	40
Metaxotos	6a+	33
Metaxotos ext	7a	40
Dokimos	6a+	25
Dokimos ext	6b+	33
Faka	6a+	22
Faka ext	6c+	33
Erotas above the city	6a	22
Erotas above the city ext	6b+	33
Silk	5c	25

See other climbing activities in Greece here:

• Rock climbing in Greece