Climbing in Rock of Ages – Ermionida – Argolis – Greece

Is just the second Christmas day and this time we decided to visit for a second time a crag that is located in the region on Argolis, and specifically in the municipality of Ermionida. This crag is rather infamous and is rarely visited due to the difficult approach. This crag is the Rock of Ages.

Rock of Ages, is a nice little cliff in an idyllic setting and highly recommended for those more interested in their surroundings than pushing up their grades. A small ravine with lush vegetation, good rock and varied climbing give a very pleasant day out.

Rock of Ages is mainly developed and bolted by the legendary climber and route setter Jim Titt and I. Zaczek. The ones familiar with Titt’s bolts they will not be surprised that this crag is not for beginners. Actually, all routes are rather demanding and almost on all routes there is runout between the bolts. Thus, the Rock of Ages is mainly for experienced climbers that feel comfortable with onsighting 6a+/6b.

The highlights of Rock of Ages include the spectacular and photogenic, overhanging Mr Cool at 5a and the weird Pull of the Sun at 6a+/6b, which climbs up inside the cleft splitting the cliff face. Plenty of potential on this undeveloped rock make it well worth a visit. Good belaying on top for a toprope, take a 60m rope.

Approach to the crag of Rock of Ages

Access: Approaching from Ermioni turn right on the saddle before Didima (Sign: Iliokastro). After 4,4 km shortly before reaching a small church on the right side turn left. Continue on this tarred road for 2,8 km. Then go right on a small tarred road for 1,9 km (the last 100 m are gravel). Turn left when the concrete begins and follow the road downwards. On this road 800 m towards a wide rock formation. Just before you reach that formation turn right and follow the road with a serpentine up to the saddle right of the rock formation. Now downwards to another dirt road. Turn left and follow this road for about 750m until you’ll see the small ravine on the left. Park a few meters after the valley where the shepherds feed their animals (above the street on the left). Go left and follow the water pipes in the valley and turn left to the rocks.

Altitude: 500m above sea level.

Season: Probably all year, South/South West facing.

Sectors and Route in Rock of Ages

Rock of Ages is divided in the following sectors:

7 Dwarfs
Fairy Tale
Little Cat Head
Main Wall
Slabs

7 Dwarfs

Name	Grade
Happy	5a
Grumpy	5b
Bashful	6c
Sneezy	6b+
Dopy	7a
Dozy	6b
Doc	7a

Fairy Tale

Name	Grade
Snow White	6a
Black Witch	6b+
Hobbit	5a
Dance with Monsters	6b
Heave	5c+
Fairy Tale	5b
Grab	6b+

Little Cat Head

Name	Grade
Katzenschleichen	4c

Main Wall

Name	Grade
Pams Arete	5a
Mr Cool	5c+
Dreamtime	5c+
Dreamtime DT	6a
Woody	6a
The Rising	6a
EOS	6a+
Hydra	6a
Furioso	6b
Stoned	6a+
Gammel Hans	6c+

Slabs

Name	Grade
Pull of the Sun	6a+
Maxx	5c
Hail	5b+
Showtime	5b+
Quetschi	6a
Simple Start	5b+
Easy Mover	5b+
Superfine	6a
Teamwork	5c
Quergang	6a+
150%	6a
Hope	6a+
Roof	6a+
Fridge	5c

See more climbing crags in Argolis region:

Further Information

This post contains many information regarding the various crags and sectors in the Ermionida region. Should you wish to know more and your have a specific question, we would be pleased to try to help you out.

You can contact us, via the contact page.

In case you would like to do enjoy some hiking in between climbing, feel free to check out the following posts:

Hiking activities in Ermionida

Below: This map marks all the mountaineering adventures that have been featured on Olympus Mountaineering so far, including several Sport climbing crags – Select full screen to expand, zoom in for more detail, or click on a marker for a link to the post.